Advice on replacing DOT pickup selector switch

[windeguy]

I am looking for advice one how to replace my Epiphone DOT's pickup selector switch.

 

Also, what is the best replacement part and where can I purchase it online?

 

Thanks ahead of time for any help.

[TWANG]

There's a switchcraft lots prefer, but I use an allparts.com three way that's really identical and cost a few bucks less.

you'd unscrew the nut it would fall inside..and you'd thread it out the f hole carefully..

there will be wires attached. you copy the postion and color

unsolder them

resolder then to the new switch push it through the hole and tighten down the nut..

you have to hold the switch still while you tighten down the nut.

 

TWANG

[Guest icantbuyafender]

There's a switchcraft lots prefer' date=' but I use an allparts.com three way that's really identical and cost a few bucks less.

you'd unscrew the nut it would fall inside..and you'd thread it out the f hole carefully..

there will be wires attached. you copy the postion and color

unsolder them

resolder then to the new switch push it through the hole and tighten down the nut..

you have to hold the switch still while you tighten down the nut.

 

TWANG[/quote']

 

 

Twangs got the right idea, and when it comes to semihollows he's the man. Check out big red sometime!

 

switchcraft is great, but GFS sells a switchcraft STYLE 3-way selector that is just as sturdy.

The thing just FEELS like money and isnt going to cost you $18-20.

 

With those semihollows and hollowbodies the trick is to use a wire coat hanger if your hands arent the slimmest.

 

You are a braver man than I. My dot studio is still bone stock.

 

Good Luck!

[brianh]

Tie a string to the old switch before you pull it out the F-hole.

 

Then you'll have a way to pull the new one back into place.

[peeper]

I am sick of these threads. How come ever hollow I've ever seen in person you access thru the bridge pick up, yet here people still insist to use the f hole? I have done at least 100 semis in my career and every one went through the bridge pu route in the center block.

[Ron G]

I am sick of these threads. How come ever hollow I've ever seen in person you access thru the bridge pick up' date=' yet here people still insist to use the f hole? I have done at least 100 semis in my career and every one went through the bridge pu route in the center block.[/quote']

You must be blessed, because every one I've seen (not as many as you, granted) doesn't have the big hole you describe. And it really doesn't matter because unless you have really long, skinny fingers like a science fiction alien, the installation is gonna be very similar.

 

Edit: And furthermore, because of the close proximity of the switch to the F-hole, it is possible to replace the switch without disturbing anything else. I've done it twice. So there!

[Strumbone]

Ron, I sure hope you're right. I'll find out soon...changing out the pots, jack, switch, nut, and pups on a MIK Sheraton. I'm still prepared to go the f-hole route, but will remove the stock pups and see before I disconnect anything. A big hole in the humbucker routing would certainly make life easier!

[Guest icantbuyafender]

I am sick of these threads. How come ever hollow I've ever seen in person you access thru the bridge pick up' date=' yet here people still insist to use the f hole? I have done at least 100 semis in my career and every one went through the bridge pu route in the center block.[/quote']

 

 

Yeesh....

[peeper]

I'm just sayin, you'll gouge up your f- holes. I am sure there is the odd guitar without a bridge route, I have encountered one where the block was flipped over and the hole was on the other side, but never no hole. As I said, I am sure they exist, but you owe it to yourself and your guitar to at least look at the damned thing. I have done more of these that I ever wanted to, and wish I never have to do one again, and I am just passing what I have learned along the way to you guys.

[Ron G]

I am sick of these threads. How come ever hollow I've ever seen in person you access thru the bridge pick up' date=' yet here people still insist to use the f hole? I have done at least 100 semis in my career and every one went through the bridge pu route in the center block.[/quote']

Arrogant and wrong - an interesting combination. OU812's poll shows that only some semi-hollows have the large hole.

But as I stated earlier, it really has no major effect on the difficulty of a complete replacement of all components. If the guitar has the small hole, lining the edges of the F-hole with masking tape will protect from marring.

 

Ron, I ask that you consider Mark Twain's words below.

[peeper]

I hardly think 5 people voting on an online poll is conclusive of anything. And keep in mind, I am a professional who makes a fair living repairing and modifying guitars, I have re-wired more ES type guitars than most will even see. I am passing along my experience to you, FOR FREE. I do it cause I love guitars, I love Epiphones, and I love you guys. So name calling is just gonna make me not answer YOUR questions as quickly in the future, if at all.

[Ron G]

I hardly think 5 people voting on an online poll is conclusive of anything. And keep in mind' date=' I am a professional who makes a fair living repairing and modifying guitars, I have re-wired more ES type guitars than most will even see. I am passing along my experience to you, FOR FREE. I do it cause I love guitars, I love Epiphones, and I love you guys. So name calling is just gonna make me not answer YOUR questions as quickly in the future, if at all. [/quote']

That's OK - I'd rather have them answered correctly.

[Guest icantbuyafender]

I'm just sayin' date=' you'll gouge up your f- holes. I am sure there is the odd guitar without a bridge route, I have encountered [u']one[/u] where the block was flipped over and the hole was on the other side, but never no hole. As I said, I am sure they exist, but you owe it to yourself and your guitar to at least look at the damned thing. I have done more of these that I ever wanted to, and wish I never have to do one again, and I am just passing what I have learned along the way to you guys.

 

much appreciated.

 

The only thing I'd do to my dot studio would be adding a 2nd volume and 2nd tone, so that each pickup would have its own controls rather than having a master tone and master volume.

 

other than that, once i replaced the nut and bridge saddles, I couldnt be happier with the way it plays.

[duane v]

I hardly think 5 people voting on an online poll is conclusive of anything. And keep in mind' date=' I am a professional who makes a fair living repairing and modifying guitars, I have re-wired more ES type guitars than most will even see. I am passing along my experience to you, FOR FREE. I do it cause I love guitars, I love Epiphones, and I love you guys. So name calling is just gonna make me not answer YOUR questions as quickly in the future, if at all. [/quote']

 

Musikron

 

Your advice and how you present it is very well appreciated[cool]

[brianh]

I hardly think 5 people voting on an online poll is conclusive of anything. And keep in mind' date=' I am a professional who makes a fair living repairing and modifying guitars, I have re-wired more ES type guitars than most will even see. I am passing along my experience to you, FOR FREE. I do it cause I love guitars, I love Epiphones, and I love you guys. So name calling is just gonna make me not answer YOUR questions as quickly in the future, if at all. [/quote']

Musikron, I appreciate the advice and your experience, but as with any project you have to look at the field conditions an assess what applies under the circumstances. If nothing else, we've at least established that semi-hollow Epis can often be ugraded with full or mini-pots through the bridge pickup cavity, but that there are enough manufacturing inconsistencies to warrant opening each guitar up for an inspection before assuming anything. They are complex products made in multiple factories thousands of miles apart after all, not wingnuts or ball bearings. Come to think of it, even wingnuts can have manufacturing inconsistencies.

 

But hey, I learned that I can upgrade the pots in my Sheri through the PUP cavity, which I probably would have missed entirely if not for your post, this thread, and the existence of the forum. Good stuff.

 

So thanks!

[Ron G]

Musikron' date=' I appreciate the advice and your experience, but as with any project you have to look at the field conditions an assess what applies under the circumstances. If nothing else, we've at least established that semi-hollow Epis can often be ugraded with full or mini-pots through the bridge pickup cavity, but that there are enough manufacturing inconsistencies to warrant opening each guitar up for an inspection before assuming anything. They are complex products made in multiple factories thousands of miles apart after all, not wingnuts or ball bearings. Come to think of it, even wingnuts can have manufacturing inconsistencies.[/quote']

Well said, Brian. There is more than one way to skin a cat, as they say, and the more ways you know, the better. When I was replacing the pickups in my Dot Studio, I assumed I would have to remove the works to do it, but my buddy simply pulled the 3-way thru the F-hole (Dot Studio's pickups are both wired to the 3-way only because of single tone & volume pots) and we quickly desoldered/soldered away. Who'd a thunk? I knew that some but not all semi-hollows have a big hole and wanted to disabuse the notion that all of them were that way. As a matter of fact, the poll indicates that more of them have the little hole, only suitable for wires to pass thru. And I still assert that it makes little difference to the overall complexity of the install, and as a matter of fact, the F-hole route can actually be easier if you're replacing the pots, switch and jack because the strings and pickups need not be removed at all.

 

The members who ask how-to questions deserve the very best answers, free from conjecture and ego.

[valriver40]

i am 70 years young and have been working on guitars for 40 years plus. on most of the semi- hollow epipi's i worked on the selector switch is one and a 1/4 inch away form the f hole and the switch seem's to slip thru easily. but you can also go thru the bridge cavity.

[peeper]

Thanks guys, we all know the QC and specs on these guitars vary quite a bit. I only press the issue as I have seen more than a few guitars who have had their f holes molested by an over zealous owner trying to wrestle the pots out before they bring it to me to finish up. A few of these have been on rather pricey axes, and I wish to prevent others from the same fate. Not to mention it is a fair bit easier when you can use the bridge route. On a fair amount of the old gretschs' I have seen you did have to access thru the f hole, but most gibbys you have the route. I will admit freely that the first ES I tried to do ( a sheraton if I recall) I spent quite a bit of time scratching my head trying to figure how they got those pots in through the f hole! Imagine my surprise when I finally found the route in the pup cavity, I felt like I had won the lottery, victory at last! Of course it took me another two days at attempting to get the harness installed and everything mounted in the top and still working and in the right place before I had some sort of system down. Even then and after doing tons of them, its still a pain in my ***. This was before the internet where we can come to places like this for info on how to do something.

I do not claim to know it all, far from it. One of the things that draws me to guitars (playing, repairing, modding, recording, building) is the fact that you NEVER know everything about them. I learn something new on almost a daily basis. Be it a new lick or technique, fact about an obscure make or model, or a new way of tuning the damned thing, it will always keep me coming back for that next "EUREKA" moment, where something elusive clicks into place.