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Valve junior mod question


mfjord123

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No problem!

You can put a pot in there for variable gain, too.

Do add the 1M Resistor at R1 if you don't have that..

You can take the 68K R down to 10K, too.

I read through a bit of that page.. and I've always skipped the master volume bit.. didn't do much.

TWANG

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It's right at the end of the board.. labelled R1 and R2..

they are a little tight together.. but I've never messed up there.

The main thing is not too much heat.. so you don't lift the solder pad from the board..

and if you use a resistor that's 1 watt, like you should, I find it best to file the end to a sharp point..

so it doesn't hit the edge of the solder pad and push it off the other side of the board coming through.

also keep it short.. just enough to pass through..

bend the resistor leads to the right distance between..

no sweat!

 

First though make sure you don't already have 1M in there.. there's an online resistor color code reader if you don't have a meter.

It's a big change in sound!

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o, yea my head is a v3 so it already has an 1m resistor at r2.

that mod didn't work. when i switched it on there was a huge noise so i removed the switch.

lucky for me i didn't drill a hole yet.

would it be plausible to make a switch on r1 that will make it a bypass?

will it also have a high gain effect?

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There's no 1M at R2. It's 68K stock in all versions at R2, and in some at R1.

 

You can do a dual input mod, which means drilling a hole and adding another input jack, one lo, 68K, and one high, 1M,

and the 1M does increase the amount of signal hitting the preamp so it would boost gain.

 

 

If you got a noise on the other mod, you did something wrong. Maybe you need to look at your information again and check your work.

 

TWANG

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