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Help with a Samick made Sheraton - new member.


LittleDenny

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Hello everyone.

 

While I've been reading on the forum here for many months I am a new member. I have a couple Epi's that have become my favorite guitars. I have a Samick made Sheraton VS and a SG, the faded one with the neck binding I believe it was made at the Unsung plant in Korea. I also have a Dot that I haven't even started to fool around with....... anyhow my question. I would like to get a new bridge and saddle for the Sheraton and I've read many times that there are difficulties with getting a new one for the Samick made Sheratons but nobody ever says specifically what model to use. Is there someone out there with the info that can help me out? Please??? My plan is to have all the electronics changed out and either Gibson 57 classics or Duncan Seth Lovers put in along with a new graphtech nut and Grover Imperials.....

 

For the SG I want to change out the electronics and upgrade them and install GFS Classic 59 pickups. GFS sells an electronics kit that is marketed for a Les Paul I guess but will it fit in an SG as well? Does anyone have any thoughts on this setup in an SG?

 

Thank you in advance for any help and/or ideas.

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I too have been looking for a new bridge for my Sheraton. I have not been able to locate one with the correct size. I have done some research on this and what I know is that you should measure your current bridge. Center post to post. If you come up with 73 mm you are in luck. Bridges are easy to locate. IF you measure around 79mm then like me you will have much trouble locating a replacement bridge. I did find an adjustable bridge that the post holes were a more oval shaped in order to fit a wider range of sizes. THat was it. So the key is what is your current bridge post to post measurement( on center). If you learn more or find a 79mm. Let me know I buy one!

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I have that sheraton.

Mine took a new bridge with a little finesse.

 

Here's how it worked..

the large stock bridge is spaced a little tighter than the typical metric replacements.

BUT

there are bridges that have the same size bushing posts.

So I bought one.

When I screwed the posts in and sat the bridge on it, it wouldn't go down.

So I put the posts up as high as they could go, without falling out, and sat the bridge on them.

It fit.

the threads are not tight.. there is also some small amount of room around the actual posts.

I lowered the bridge posts a little bit .. going from side to side..

 

This made the bridge stay level and flat on both posts..

And the wiggle room of the threads and post tops allowed the bridge to go down easily far enough for good action.

There was no creaking or cracking or any other problem using the new metric bridge,

and it adjusts fine whenever I use it.

 

I have heard from another person that he tried this and it didn't work. I have to say, however, that I didn't have a great deal of

mechanical confidence in his description.

I've sold quite a few wiring harnesses and had them returned to be rebuilt.. some people have trouble with this sort of thing and are better off letting someone experienced do the work.

But this job is easily tested by simply removing your strings and borrowing any other epis bridge that fits those posts..

you'll know in a trice!

 

heh. I said trice.

 

Lemmee see if I've got a pic.

nope. just pics with the old bridge.

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They are out there, the spacing must be correct or you can move the bridge back, in most cases you can enhance the overall sound by adding a bridge brace (Plate) under the new bridge.... just go to EBAY and "Archtop bridge" and ask the larger companies which one fits the imports and exact spacing, otherwise go to http://www.stewmac.com/ where they have them listed by size, spread and type. They will even respond to you if you tell them what your trying to do....

You may have to sand the base which is an easy task: Simply place sandpaper-face up- on the surface (covering the surface where the bridge will go,with wax paper or other no slip paper) and move back and forth to consumate the proper shape for the area. Getting parts from Epiphone/Gibson is still the easiest...I replaced a ebony bridge in an old Joe Pass with a solid brass one...not much of a problem. Just mesureing for the right spacing ...

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Jozluck, I think you're mistaken - the bridge on a Sheraton II is mounted on posts screwed into bushings in the body, like a Les Paul. Your description would be correct for a floating bridge, but the Sheraton's isn't.

By the way if you "moved the bridge back" to correct for wrong spacing, you'd be unable to intonate the guitar and it would never tune successfully.

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I've had one sent to me for relacement.. that was broken. the saddles were so porous I couldn't believe it.

Also the gold wears off and sometimes people prefer them shiny!

 

The easiest way to fix this bridge is still me.. *L* I've got a tap for that size bridge saddle hole..

You just run the tap through another regular sized.. has to be the right height.. saddle and install.. keeping the bridge itself.

 

I still hate you for that beautiful top, Brian, you know that, don't you? You only post it to tweak my nose, I bet.

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Thanks for all the information folks. I'm going to start the measurement process and then study things up a bit and go from there. I rebuilt my Tele and made it all my own and now I just want this to be all my own. The Sheraton I have has graphtech saddles on it when I bend the strings it makes a clicking noise. and my buddy said it looks like an Ibanez bridge but I think it's stock and looks a lot like what everyone else has from the Samick plant. It looks to me like it's made of pot metal and pretty crappy quality and I want something nicer on it. I get kind of anal about my stuff and I kinda want what I want and that's it.....

 

I do want to say how much I really enjoy this sight and all the good things everyone has to say about Epi's. I must admot a bit of Gibson snobbery until I bought my Sheraton and started coming and reading about things here. Now with a few tweaks and upgrades here and there I definately don't have that snobbery anymore.

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What makes the clicking noise? The string moving on the saddle or the saddle itself moving against the bridge? Have you put string grooves in you saddles or are they still un-notched like when you got them? Retainer clips or springs?

With a little clean up work, an epi bridge is just fine.

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It looks to me like the saddle is moving baqck and forth in the bridge just slightly. Its the G and B strings too. Doesn't seem to do it on the others or maybe just doesn't make the same noise on the others. I don't know whether retainer cluips or springs but I am going to look tonight when I do the measurements. I'll post the info and if I can get a picture up I will do so as well. I kinda like the looks of the older stuff on the guitar cuse then it looks vintage instead of everything being shiney and new but I don't want that clicking. Me and my friend will tear it apart. I have a few things that I need to address. The saddles were on it when I purchased the guitar. I have been sickly and am just now getting well and it's getting to be that time that I want to get this guitar done.

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It looks to me like the saddle is moving baqck and forth in the bridge just slightly. Its the G and B strings too. Doesn't seem to do it on the others or maybe just doesn't make the same noise on the others. I don't know whether retainer cluips or springs but I am going to look tonight when I do the measurements. I'll post the info and if I can get a picture up I will do so as well. I kinda like the looks of the older stuff on the guitar cuse then it looks vintage instead of everything being shiney and new but I don't want that clicking. Me and my friend will tear it apart. I have a few things that I need to address. The saddles were on it when I purchased the guitar. I have been sickly and am just now getting well and it's getting to be that time that I want to get this guitar done.

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Someone forgot that thing in a closet for a few years it looks like. That hardware looks brand new!

That's not the way I got it. It took a complete disassembly and a day of cleaning to get it looking that way.

 

It's my go to guitar now...I'm pretty floored with how well it plays and sounds.

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If your bridge saddles move too much on their screws..

a little bit of plumbers tape will do the trick..

this is the stuff you wrap around pipe threads to keep them from leaking water..

on you screw threads you stretch it around.. then screw saddle in.. voila! can't move anymore.

probably cost you a buck or two.. and handy to have around for anything like this.

 

wont hurt the tone a bit.. a unlike lock tite it's easy to do and still adjust the saddle back and forth

 

TWANG

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it's a little roll of white tape..

it stretches. you can also clean off any that shows..

you can get it at any hardware store..

you probably could achieve the same result with a bit of elmers or other cheap white glue... but it's messier

and I like to use the tape.

TWANG

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Great idea Twang. I think maybe a little repairing might be in order instead of replacing.

 

the gentleman who cleaned up his guitar and got the bridge and saddles and everything else looking so good.... may I ask what you used to get it so clean? I know an awful lot of it has to be good old elbow grease but i also know that the right product makes a big difference.

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Well the bridge on my guitar looks like the one in Brianh's photo. The problem definately is the Graphtech saddles. It appears they are not the correct ones for the bridge as they all rock on the saddles. It's as if the distance between the hole the adjuster screw goes through is too far from the base of the saddle itself and it just rocks. I suppose I could shim each one but that seems like a lot of work. I measured the bridge and with the junk caliper I used it seems to be 72 or 73 mm so I think I'm in good shape. At this point I think I'm going to just replace the whole thing. I'm in the mood for an adventure. Thank you all a ton for your guidance. It is all very much appreciated.

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