Epiphone Wilshire 1967

[cosmitron]

Hi everyone!

I'm new to the Epiphone forum, but not new to Epiphone :P

I've owned korean and japanese €piphone guitars through the years, and now

I bought this:

 

A 1967 USA Kalamazoo made, Wilshire.

The only change I've noticed so far is the planned frets, otherwise everything is original.

(except the strings: A crappy buzz in 9-42 string gauge that disappeared with a good 10-52, my favorite.)

 

There's something that bothers me about the Maestro, though I love the way it looks.

Its system requires me to pass the strings above the swivel bar. Therefore, the angle of the strings at the abr1 saddles is virtually zero. This causes many inconveniences such as "heaving ropes" when my playing goes crude or inaudible amplified vibrations but somewhat unpleasant sensation.

The first solution that came to my mind is to flip the swivel bar 180° to pass the strings under it and by this way, lower the strings. But after removing the trem*o*tone, I quickly realized I couldn't do it without a little knowledge about the system itself. I need tips to remove it for example.

 

Has anyone already done this - flipping the swivel bar ?

Any ideas?

 

BTW, a friend suggested to buy a schaller stm bridge, because according to him, strings are better anchored in the saddles.

Any thoughts?

[charlie brown]

A "REAL" one....COOL! Welcome to the NutHouse! Enjoy your stay,

and your new (to you) guitar!

 

CB

[cosmitron]

Thanks! I'm glad to be here ^^. I own 3 Gibson, with 2 CS. But none has the vibe and mojo of this dirty little €piphone!

 

The Mini buckers are so "Rock"! (I'm playing it through a Vox AC30CC2X and a Cornford Roadhouse 30. This old lady makes me more feel and mostly act like I'm Pete Townshend)

 

It also makes me wonder what the 66' worn Ri sounds like. -Christmas time, Gas is at his highest level.

 

But first, I'm hoping to find a simple and harmless solution for the string pop issue.

Any suggestions?

[charlie brown]

Do the strings go through that bar, or are they attached via something under it? If you can thread the string through

that bar, maybe just do that, instead of wrapping them over it. They'd have a bit more angle, to the bridge, that way...

IF..it's possible, that is.

 

As to a new bridge...I think if deeper slots is what you're after, you can have a tech file the originals, a bit

deeper, then polish them, so there are no rough spots or "barbs," and do the same thing.

 

CB

[cosmitron]

That's the problem! The strings don't pass through it but around it. No choice!

 

Here's a picture which helps to understand the way it works.

 

And here's another so you could figure why strings are popping out from the saddle when I'm acting like Pete Townshend.

 

 

Flipping the swivel Bar would allow to pass the strings under it, and so, creating an angle at the saddle place, preventing the strings from popping out. You'll understand I don't want to raise the strings height, because it plays so smooth like it is.

The problem is I have found no way to remove that swivel bar, but I've seen pictures where you can clearly see that mod been done.

I'm in need of tips ^^

 

BTW, getting another bridge with deeper saddle slots could do the trick. But I don't want to spend too much without learning knowledge from other users. :-

[peeper]

In the last pic is that a screw running through the bar???

[cosmitron]

No it isn't, I wish it was screwed! ;)

It's a cylindrical bar that goes all the way through the Vibrola. I think that's the key part I should remove to flip the swivel stop bar.

[brad1]

Can't you raise the bridge? It looks like it's almost all the way down. By doing this wouldn't you create that angle you're looking for. Or am I missing something here? ;)

[cosmitron]

The only part you've missed is that if I raise the bridge, strings height would make it feel like a cheap acoustic guitar setup. (I mean I need to put my left hand fingers upon the strings, not under :)).

Otherwise I think you've got it. ;)

I'm actually modeling the whole bridge unit in 3D so maybe it would be more understandable.

[deflepfan]

The only part you've missed is that if I raise the bridge' date=' strings height would make it feel like a cheap acoustic guitar setup. (I mean I need to put my left hand fingers upon the strings, not under :)).

Otherwise I think you've got it. ;)

I'm actually modeling the whole bridge unit in 3D so maybe it would be more understandable.[/quote']

But by raising the bridge to meet the string, you wouldn't be raising the string. The bridge is too low. Just raise the low side up to meet the string and try again.

Sheila

[cosmitron]

That's what I did already (since the picture has been taken), I could raise it more but it would make it really a pain to play. (I'm no shredding on this old lady the low E string is 3mm from the 12th fret)

[cosmitron]

here's a 3D view. Please notice that I don't know how it is inside the bar I'd like to flip.

 

[brad1]

Can you lower the nut? This would help lower the action.

Is the neck straight? Does the truss rod need any turning?

[peeper]

Take it in to the best tech you can find. I have never done one myself (they are kinda rare and the few I have seen the necks were set so as not to have that problem, is your neck set properly? Do you know how to tell?), but am confident I could handle that mod without any issues. I am sure others could too. Have you tried pressing that pin out yet? Remove the bridge from the guitar (don't wanna gouge the top) and see if that bar presses out, be sure to look for a locking pin or ring somewhere.

[peeper]

I may see something. Can you provide a clearer pic of the front of the trem please?

[peeper]

Hell, make it a clearer pic from all sides, front back left right top. I only need to see the trem, not the bridge. Thanks!

[cosmitron]

Take it in to the best tech you can find. I have never done one myself (they are kinda rare and the few I have seen the necks were set so as not to have that problem' date=' is your neck set properly? Do you know how to tell?), but am confident I could handle that mod without any issues. I am sure others could too. Have you tried pressing that pin out yet? Remove the bridge from the guitar (don't wanna gouge the top) and see if that bar presses out, be sure to look for a locking pin or ring somewhere.[/quote']

I've send my question to mr DAGUET (who's specialize in Crestwood replica) and wisely wait for an answer.

The nut does not seem to be too high, at least it is set just like my Les Paul CS.

I've tried really hard to press the pin out of its location with no success. I did it with my hands and a clamp, but I don't think I have the accurate tool.

As far as I know (little knowledge but very little issues) by watching the strings shadow on the frets and fretboard, the neck looks straight.

I've removed the bridge already and noticed 2 very small pins but can't figure how to remove them.

 

Below, the pictures:

 

 

On that last pic you can see 2 very small yet distinctive pins. One on the fixed-screwed part (at the left side), and one at the swivel stop-bar right I'd like to flip.

[jonnyg]

It also makes me wonder what the 66' worn Ri sounds like. :) -Christmas time' date=' Gas is at his highest level.[/quote']

I can tell you that mine sounds great but for the definitive comparison you should search out Ratholes earlier posts as he has an original 60's model and the re-issue.

[cosmitron]

Now I think the tiny pins are passing through each part where they're visible.

[cosmitron]

I can tell you that mine sounds great but for the definitive comparison you should search out Ratholes earlier posts as he has an original 60's model and the re-issue.

yes! I've read it yesterday! Makes me gas for a back up. (though I have too many guitars already)

[jonnyg]

yes! I've read it yesterday! Makes me gas for a back up. (though I have too many guitars already)

Yeah, but it's well cheap and it is almost Christmas.

[peeper]

Those pins are what I spotted. Just was wondering if it was actually there or an artifact from the camera.

I would remove the bridge, take the arm holder off, and see if I could get those pins out. You could try taking it to a jeweler, they would have the correct tool for removing the pins, and would probably do it for the same price as sizing your watch. After the pins are out, the bar should slide right out. Now flipping it and re-installing the pins might be tricky. Nope, I take that back, you have access from the bottom of the trem, so no problem! Consider this easy I say.

As far as checking neck set, it is different than straightness. The neck set refers to the angle to the body. Draw a straight line from the plane of the tops of the frets toward the bridge. Where would that line go? If it goes OVER the trem, you have room to adjust ( not too far over mind you). If it falls even or below the tailpiece, then the neck *could have shifted and that is causing you the string angle issues. Make sense?

[cosmitron]

jonnyg>well you know, the 67 Wilshire was already an auto-Christmas Gift...

Musikron>Thanks that totally makes sense. I had a second thought about the neck set after I took the pictures. So yes I'll definitely check the neck/body angle. :) I can see the light!

[cosmitron]

Muskron> the body/neck angle is approx. 2°.

So the" virtual straight frets line" goes over the trem. Not quite sure it's enough though.

 

After some googling, it appears that 2°-3° neck/body angle, is pretty common on lp JR and SG. I guess they didn't mind a high action in the 60s!

[charlie brown]

That's the problem! The strings don't pass through it but around it. No choice!

 

Here's a picture which helps to understand the way it works.

 

And here's another so you could figure why strings are popping out from the saddle when I'm acting like Pete Townshend.

 

:)

 

Flipping the swivel Bar would allow to pass the strings under it' date=' and so, creating an angle at the saddle place, preventing the strings from popping out. You'll understand I don't want to raise the strings height, because it plays so smooth like it is.

The problem is I have found no way to remove that swivel bar, but I've seen pictures where you can clearly see that mod been done.

I'm in need of tips ^^

 

BTW, getting another bridge with deeper saddle slots could do the trick. But I don't want to spend too much without learning knowledge from other users. :-[/quote']

 

 

Yeah, that's what I was afraid of! Well, maybe a good "tech" can get it set up for you,

the way you want it? If the neck has a decent underbow to it, you might be able to adjust

the Truss Rod, enough to straighten the neck even more (without overbowing it)...and allow

for raising the strings (at the bridge) and still maintaining a decent (low) action. That would

allow the bridge to be higher, and therefore increase the angle to the tailpiece. Just a thought...

 

CB