Vic Flick Posted January 18, 2010 Share Posted January 18, 2010 Thank you guys for taking some time to think about this little problem. Jerrymac> Honestly' date=' after some bigsby study, I thought of something just like that too. There's an empty room at the bottom of the tremotone fixed base, and I thought I just might add an "omega" bar*. I've finally left the idea because I can not figure out how to find such a device. What you suggest is a little different and sounds pretty neat. PS>I never heard of MATTHIAS STURM, but I'm listening to his myspace songs right now, and it's excellent! for some reason it reminds me of a Dutch band called Daryll Ann. [img']http://geraldparel.free.fr/wp-content/photos/wilshire/vibrola%20Empty%20Square%20Space%20copy.jpg[/img] Musikron> I think I don't understand your solution! (lack of imagination? ) - But I swear I want to! (I'm always very sensible to the TOTALLY REVERSIBLE side of your suggestion) Could you explain it differently - so a french guy that learnt english with comics books and google could understand?:) I think you, me & Musikron agree on the concept, it's just figuring out the best way to do it. Your Omega Bar idea is great, I wonder how expensive it would be to have a shop make one for you. I was thinking of my idea, I thought of a way you could do it without drilling the holes all the way through the metal. Just drill the hole on the inside and spring load one side. You would push the bar in the hole with the spring, align it with the hole on the other side, then the spring will pop it into the other side. That way you wouldn't even see holes. (I hope I was able to explain that OK for you). About Matthais Sturm, if you looked at his pictures on MySpace, you'll see him playing a 1968 Cherry Red Gibson ES-330. I sold him that guitar. I don't know how popular he is, but he told me he does play in the USA on occasion, and said I should see go him play the next time he's in Los Angeles. And thanks for checking out my SoundClick. I'm going to check your links tonight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cosmitron Posted January 18, 2010 Author Share Posted January 18, 2010 Thanks Jerrymac! This looks so easy.. I'm waiting for Musikron "old school graphics" though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peeper Posted January 18, 2010 Share Posted January 18, 2010 Here ya go. Pat. Pending! Remember you saw it here first! lol Any metal/machine shop could weld that up for you for next to nothing. Probably get the whole replacement bridge and fabrication work for $50. Just take off the old bridge, put it in the case, and set this contraption right on the old posts, won't even leave a mark on the finish, much less remove any material from a vintage guitar. What y'all think? Like my high tech graphics program???? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cosmitron Posted January 18, 2010 Author Share Posted January 18, 2010 Awesome 3D CG Musikron! It looks so real it looks like a true notebook! Joke aside, I think that to make the idea work, I would need to change the TOM for a TonePro with locking studs. The string tension is to strong for the tom to stay in place, I think. This means modify the guitar. Did I miss something? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peeper Posted January 18, 2010 Share Posted January 18, 2010 I dunno, seems workable to me. The bridge should fit snug on the posts, so there is no room for it to leverage itseld up and off right? Are we thinking the same thing here? JM wanna weigh in? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suicidehummer Posted January 18, 2010 Share Posted January 18, 2010 And please read the 2 first pages.Page 1' date=' post 5. Again. You'll understand the strings don't pass through the stop tailpiece, but around it.[/quote'] And exactly what is stopping them from passing through it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cosmitron Posted January 18, 2010 Author Share Posted January 18, 2010 Unlike Les Paul common stop bar, there's no hole for the strings to pass through it but notches to lock the strings. Those notches are at the down side of the stop bar, and if you want to wrap the strings under, you need the notches to be on the upper side. Hence the whole discussion about flipping drilling and milling. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vic Flick Posted January 19, 2010 Share Posted January 19, 2010 JM wanna weigh in? I think we should just scrape the whole idea and mount a Floyd on it!!! Just kiddin' I originally had a similar idea, I was thinking of using the threads on a TonePros to mount a tension bar. But what concerns me is the size. The tension bar will have to withstand a lot of upward force, so the bar & bracket will have to be fairly heavy duty. Can you design something small enough to mount to the bridge yet strong enough to not to give under pressure. And although the mod I suggested would involve two small holes, it would be strong and pretty unobtrusive. Hanging a bar off the bridge would involve using a non original bridge, plus it's going look like it's been modded, even if it is reversible. If it's done right, I don't think many people will realize that a tension bar has been added to the vibrola, but everyone will spot a bar hanging off the bridge. Having said all that, I would suggest that he bring it to a skilled tech, and run the ideas past him. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cosmitron Posted January 19, 2010 Author Share Posted January 19, 2010 All suggestions were very instructives. But I'll keep the jerrymac one, for its simplicity and effectiveness, even though it means modifying it definitively. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wilwood Posted January 30, 2010 Share Posted January 30, 2010 i was surfing around on ebay when i came across this schaller bridge http://cgi.ebay.com/Schaller-post-mount-bridge-and-fine-tuner_W0QQitemZ270522493574QQcmdZViewItemQQptZGuitar_Accessories?hash=item3efc65aa86 sorry about the link but it wouldnt let me post pictures seems to be kind of what your after and that way you wont have to ruin your origional bridge Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cosmitron Posted January 31, 2010 Author Share Posted January 31, 2010 I'd loved it if I the mounting posts spacing was the same as the stock abr1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ricochet Posted January 31, 2010 Share Posted January 31, 2010 If it was my guitar I'd buy a new set of full sloped saddles(not the flattened ones) or a new bridge(ABR-1) a cut the grooves a little deeper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james_edward Posted January 31, 2010 Share Posted January 31, 2010 So, on that tailpiece the axle or pivot shaft is also a torsion bar type spring, the spring is pinned to the body on 1 side, pinned to the “floating” part and free to float in the other socket of the body. Your only problem is if those pins are a “no drift” type pin (in other words you can only see one side of the pin – where the pin is punched into a hole that doesn’t go right through). Turn it over and if you can see both side of the pins you’re doing fine – go to your local hardware store and spend a few dollars on a pin punch, or as we call them in Canada a pin drift, of the correct size. Drop some oil over the pin locations some time before you’re ready to work – support the piece around the pin location as you punch it, but leave a hole in the support piece for the pin to fall into – and punch the pins out – flip the piece and re-assemble. That’s my take on it anyway… Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
murcielagorock Posted July 1, 2021 Share Posted July 1, 2021 Cosmitron, did you ever figure out a workaround for the maestro on your Wiltshire? I’m looking at the same issue with a 1965 I just got. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supersonic Posted July 4, 2021 Share Posted July 4, 2021 On 6/30/2021 at 8:47 PM, murcielagorock said: Cosmitron, did you ever figure out a workaround for the maestro on your Wiltshire? I’m looking at the same issue with a 1965 I just got. Thanks! That guy hasn't been to this forum in over a decade so I wouldn't get my hopes up for him to respond. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G.Gibberton Posted December 8, 2022 Share Posted December 8, 2022 On 12/18/2009 at 4:40 AM, cosmitron said: Hi everyone! I'm new to the Epiphone forum, but not new to Epiphone 😛 I've owned korean and japanese €piphone guitars through the years, and now I bought this: http://geraldparel.free.fr/wp-content/photos/wilshire/IMG_9005.jpg http://geraldparel.free.fr/wp-content/photos/wilshire/IMG_9001.jpg http://geraldparel.free.fr/wp-content/photos/wilshire/IMG_9010.jpg http://geraldparel.free.fr/wp-content/photos/wilshire/IMG_9032.jpg http://geraldparel.free.fr/wp-content/photos/wilshire/IMG_9029.jpg I have one run the strings through the eye of the ball end. A 1967 USA Kalamazoo made, Wilshire. The only change I've noticed so far is the planned frets, otherwise everything is original. (except the strings: A crappy buzz in 9-42 string gauge that disappeared with a good 10-52, my favorite.) There's something that bothers me about the Maestro, though I love the way it looks. Its system requires me to pass the strings above the swivel bar. Therefore, the angle of the strings at the abr1 saddles is virtually zero. This causes many inconveniences such as "heaving ropes" when my playing goes crude or inaudible amplified vibrations but somewhat unpleasant sensation. The first solution that came to my mind is to flip the swivel bar 180° to pass the strings under it and by this way, lower the strings. But after removing the trem*o*tone, I quickly realized I couldn't do it without a little knowledge about the system itself. I need tips to remove it for example. Has anyone already done this - flipping the swivel bar ? Any ideas? BTW, a friend suggested to buy a schaller stm bridge, because according to him, strings are better anchored in the saddles. Any thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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