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more about g 400 upgrades...ideas?


adhok

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Hey--great forum. I just acquired a newish g 400 (sg) through a craigslist trade, and I'm impressed with the pickups! but its got some tuning issues. the heavier strings I use don't quite fit in the slots on the nut (set of 11's but I'm going to put on some 12's). And the tuners are Grovers, but they actually seem a little loosy goosy, and the bridge does too.

So my questions:

Should I replace the nut and the bridge and the tuners? And about the bridge, do people prefer a whole new tunomatic, or just the saddle pieces? and what's the deal with a Nashville vs the ABR 1 and lastly, haven't I seen comments about Epiphone bridges being an odd size?? Thanks for advice--This is a hugely useful forum, and I'll attempt to put a photo up.

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The nut should be fine. The problem is that the slots are cut for smaller diameter strings. Probably 10s. If the strings are tight in the slots you'll have tuning stability problems. If you have the tools, knowledge, & experience to setup your guitar for a different string guage - go ahead. If not you should take it to a luthier and explain that you want to have the guitar setup for thicker strings & indicate the guage. He'll need the new guage strings. He may accept a new set from you, he may insist he provide them. They're only a few dollars so don't sweat it. It will probably cost $50ish to have it setup. It will be money well spent. He should check/adjust the neck bow, the action, the nut slots, the bridge, the pick-up heights, the string radius, & the tuners. He should also check the basic integrity of the guitar. All part of a typical setup.

 

As for the bridge I'm not sure what G-400 you have. The new ones have the new Tune-O-Matic Lock-Tone bridge & stop bar. These are fine quality parts. They lock to the mounting studs & transfer string energy better than the old non-locking bars (like the ABR-1 & Nashville). They also buzz a LOT less. I'd like to upgrade one of my older Tune-O-Matic bridges & stop bar to the Lock-Tones if they'll fit the mounting studs. Its a better design. The saddles in the new Lock-Tone bridges also have a V grove machined into them. Some of the other models (like the ABR-1 & Nashville) may not. This means you'll have to file the groves. If you have the tools & skills great. If not it could be a very bad idea. You may also be able to buy pre-slotted saddles, like the Graph-Tech saddle savers. The Graph-Tech are polymer so they won't transfer string energy like the steel saddles. Maybe good, maybe not. If you choose to go this route you'll have to experiment.

 

The Grover tuners should be fine. You may want to check the mounting screws, mounting nuts, & tuner key screws. Sometimes one or more come loose. No biggie, just snug it up. The tuners are fine quality parts. If you're having tuning problems they are most likely from the strings binding in the nut slots. Common problem easily fixed by a proper setup from a qualified luthier.

 

Good Luck

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And the tuners are Grovers' date=' but they actually seem a little loosy goosy, [...']

Try tightening the screw at the end of the machine head - that will adjust the tension of the tuner by putting more pressure on the plastic spacer between the machine head and the tuning machine itself.

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On my Epi JR I found serius tuning issues at 1st. It was all the nut. The slots are narrow, sharp and full of clearcoat to bind up the strings worse. I opened and smoothed all of the slots for a set of 11's (I might go to 12's as well....std tuning, nothing dropped) and put graphite shavings in the slots. Presto, complete tuning stabilty. However I am still going to replace the nut. The grooves are ridiculously deep. Easily 4 times deeper than they should be. The strings should not be buried in the nut like they are in the factory plastic nuts. So a Tusq nut is in the future.

 

As for the bridge, I don't know what you have. However I find the stock Epiphone bridges to my liking. I may upgrade to a lightweight aluminum and tone pro locks, just to see if there is a difference.

 

I would start with the nut replacement. Any std nut material other than plastic will be an improvement.

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