Banastre Posted April 17, 2010 Share Posted April 17, 2010 Hello all, first post here, and glad I stumbled upon this forum! Serial #S99024871. Couple years ago I got this Korean-made Sheraton II from a band-mate that needed fast cash. $250! It has a couple deep scratches on the back and needs a re-fret. You can actually get your tumbnail under the sides of most of them. The gold hardware had serious pitting and thick layers of gunk. Not shown in the pic is the E tortise pickguard, but I have it installed now. The binding one the guard needed glued down, because about 6 inches of it was hanging free. An easy fix. Anyway.. Sorry to offend anyone here, but I'm not a fan of the dark-burst. I'd love a natural finish, or even a straight cherry. My question is the burst istelf. I'd hate to go to the trouble of sanding it only to find I could have saved my time and made it a solid color. The dark areas are usually to hide an ugly flaw in the wood. Since these are veneered, would there be any? Also, I'm a Fender guy, so I was wondering is it normal that only the front is a burst?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bender 4 Life Posted April 18, 2010 Share Posted April 18, 2010 Interested in an "as is" sale? PM me if you are............ It would take many days meticulous work to get the poly finish off without gouging the wood underneath. Welcome to the forum!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted April 18, 2010 Share Posted April 18, 2010 Interested in an "as is" sale?PM me if you are............ It would take many days meticulous work to get the poly finish off without gouging the wood underneath. Welcome to the forum!! Banastre welcome to the forum I think Bender has the answer here...sell that beautiful guitar on as a project and buy in a nice Sherri in natural plenty out there....I have learned a big lesson lately, instead of trying to transform a guitar to your ideal, just find what you want exactly in the first place...In your case if you want a Sherri in natural and you do not like that finish sell it to someone who will enjoy the guitar for what it is... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Banastre Posted April 18, 2010 Author Share Posted April 18, 2010 Funny you should all talk of selling it because the guy who sold it to me for $250 is willing to buy it back for $500!! BTW the $250 included its Epi hardshell case! It was a steal I couldn't pass up! My only hollow (well, semi-hollow) body. Big lover of the sound... Yeah I agree with you guys about appreciating its beauty. It IS the historically accurate sunburst for Sheratons, and I AM a retro-nut. Shame on me for not liking the burst, really. I always figured it's only ten-ish years old so not vintage, and for the price it would become a project guitar to correct the frets and scratches (gouges). The pups sound good enough but could be improved. I get scratches when a pot or two is turned, and the jack connection has cut-out issues too.. The tuners arn't bad at at all. I'd love at least a Bigsby on it. She does need work, and I've made two guitars and re-fined one, so it is well within my means. Not a pro luthier, but a player and craftsman/hobbyist. Is gold hardware the only 'option' for factory burst Sheratons? I've yet to see a pic of one with chrome or nickel. And is the burst-on-front also standard? Again, I'm a Fender guy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mbrooks0711 Posted April 18, 2010 Share Posted April 18, 2010 The Sheratons come with factory gold hardware, but they are notorious for pitting/fading over time. I recall seeing something on here a long time ago (probably can't find it because this forum crashes when the freaking wind blows the wrong way) about someone subjecting all the gold hardware to oven cleaner which removed all the gold plating and left just a nickel-type finish. I don't suggest it, I just remember that. And btw, I am for the selling it as is and applying the money towards what you really want. BTW I have seen ONE cherry sheraton, but that was on Ebay a while back but I'm pretty sure they are rare. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smips65 Posted April 18, 2010 Share Posted April 18, 2010 Save yourself the headache, and trouble, sell it back to the guy for $500.00, and buy Sledge57's natural sheri. http://forums.epiphone.com/default.aspx?g=posts&t=13751 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted April 18, 2010 Share Posted April 18, 2010 Save yourself the headache' date=' and trouble, sell it back to the guy for $500.00, and buy Sledge57's natural sheri. http://forums.epiphone.com/default.aspx?g=posts&t=13751[/quote'] A big +1 Set that that guitar free unsandpapered aaand contact Sledge his is a beauty indeed....makes sense Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brianh Posted April 18, 2010 Share Posted April 18, 2010 I'll throw in my $.02 and side with the sell it and get what you really want crowd. Some of the folks who've posted their refinish work on this forum are very modest about their skills (coolcarl) but the truth is it will take more than $500 in time, materials and equipment to make it look as good as what you can buy a new (or better yet a used Korean) Sherry II for, and it could easily turn the guitar to firewood. If that's not convincing enough, consider that the burst tint will have penetraded deep into the wood pores and you'll practically have to sand through the first ply to remove it. Here are just a few of the threads devoted to this subject: http://forums.epiphone.com/default.aspx?g=posts&t=14936 http://forums.epiphone.com/default.aspx?g=posts&t=14883 http://forums.epiphone.com/default.aspx?g=posts&t=14752 http://forums.epiphone.com/default.aspx?g=posts&t=14728 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Banastre Posted April 19, 2010 Author Share Posted April 19, 2010 Ok, you all sold me on not stripping it. The more I've looked around the web at pics of these bursts, the more I'm getting attached to it. Not sure I'm even going to re-sell it back to him! Thinking of changing out the pots and jack, as I'm getting scratches and cut-outs. Maybe go with vitamin q's. Input on that anyone? Should both pots be 500 audio? The Sheraton wiring diagram at gibson's site says yes unless it is USA, which mine is not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mbrooks0711 Posted April 19, 2010 Share Posted April 19, 2010 Wise choice my man. Those older bursts are highly sought after. I have one of the new ones which still looks great, but I love that darker burst color man. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brianh Posted April 19, 2010 Share Posted April 19, 2010 Ok' date=' you all sold me on not stripping it.The more I've looked around the web at pics of these bursts, the more I'm getting attached to it. Not sure I'm even going to re-sell it back to him! Thinking of changing out the pots and jack, as I'm getting scratches and cut-outs. Maybe go with vitamin q's. Input on that anyone? Should both pots be 500 audio? The Sheraton wiring diagram at gibson's site says yes unless it is USA, which mine is not.[/quote'] Pots, wiring, jack, and switch are good upgrades. Use USA Switchcraft parts, cloth-covered shielded wire and CTS pots. 500k audio taper is normal, but check the ones you pull out. You might be able to find someone locally who can repair the scratches and buff out the finish. Don't attempt wheel buffing yourself - it requires much experience and a magic touch. You can try hand buffing it though, use the SEARCH function for more info. It seems Meguirs car polish is popular for this. It will be an even nicer guitar when you're done.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Banastre Posted April 20, 2010 Author Share Posted April 20, 2010 When I first got this guitar, I tried Meguiars since I had it already for my builds and was promptly laughed at by the poly finish. Will have to go to a tougher grit. I wouldn't ever personally try wheel buffing but would leave that to the pros, like you said. My limited experience with them on non-guitar stuff tells me that 'Banastre+wheel buffing=bad finish'. The big long crack in the finish on the back I may try to fix with superglue, as it doesn't go to the wood, fortunately. Since it's on the back, I figure I can at least try without too much to lose. Down the road on that project though. I wanna get it improved first in the 'engine' department. First off, a Graphtech tusq nut has just been ordered. I love 'em and use 'em on all the ships in the fleet, but never got around to doing it on this one, oddly enough. The Sheraton sounded so 'dead' last night I had to take the plunge, since the strings needed changing too. I looked around a bit on the web at re-wiring hollow-bodies, but wonder what is the advice here. Take out a pup, or do it all through the F hole? No experience with that solid block of wood under the top, no idea what it looks like under there. Any advice is appreciated, certainly! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brianh Posted April 21, 2010 Share Posted April 21, 2010 There's a long tread kicking around here somewhere about rewiring semis. Ah, here it is: http://forums.epiphone.com/default.aspx?g=posts&t=12229 You have to take out the bridge PUP and see how much clearance is in there, some have more than others. If it's too tight, you'll have to do it through the F-holes. I know at least one member here was able to rewire their Sherry with full-size CTS pots through the PUP cavity. The Mojo harnesses look nice, I think Joe Samick bought one for his Joe Pass and was pretty happy with it. This thread has links to their how-to video: http://forums.epiphone.com/default.aspx?g=posts&t=13023 here's another related thread: http://forums.epiphone.com/default.aspx?g=posts&t=8941 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Banastre Posted April 21, 2010 Author Share Posted April 21, 2010 Thanks! I'll check it out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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