Replacement Bridge - EA-260

[LZBass]

Any suggestions where I might locate a replacement bridge for my new Epi EA-260? Any help is appreciated.

 

Thanks!

[LZBass]

Any suggestions where I might locate a replacement bridge for my new Epi EA-260? Any help is appreciated.

 

Thanks!

 

 

OK then... anyone know where to find parts for it? Specifically, I'm in need of the two (2) knerled nuts for bridge height adjustment. Also looking for the mute and cover.

 

Thanks again!

[Golem]

OK then... anyone know where to find parts for it?

Specifically, I'm in need of the two (2) knerled nuts

for bridge height adjustment. Also looking for the

mute and cover.

 

Thanks again!

 

I don't know what an EA260 is ... but now it's starting

to seem that you're describing a typical floating bridge

as found on a typical archtop ... which means you can

just buy a whole bridge from AllParts for about $30.

 

I also saw a pic of an Epi archtop that is a dead ringer

for my Univox, which I've also seen under a few other

names. It's a Japanese archtop that everyone and his

brother imported under a zillion names ! Mine has the

floating bridge with a wooden bottom and a metal top.

Top section is similar to a Tuna-Magic, has a chrome

cover to hide the uglee parts, and a lever operated flip

up mute with a a coil spring. Is that what you have ?

You may find that the bottom half of an AllParts bridge

will work. Maybe the wheels are the same thread and

you can just use the wheels, but maybe you'll hafta use

the whole wooden bottom [if the shaft spacing matches].

 

If the shaft spacing is different, and the threaded posts

are not the same pitch as yours, then you just use the

whole AllParts bridge as replacement. OK, you lose the

mute. The mute really screws up the intonation anyway.

 

 

`

 

 

`

[Golem]

`

 

 

OKedoke. I just took a few minutes for a search

and it's the same as my Univox. Which means

you'd do well to scrap the tuners. I put Schallers

on mine. Being short scale, the beefy tuners do

not produce any dive.

 

It's a really nice ax at an affordable cost. I kept

mine for a long time, but right now it's for sale

on consignment at a local shop. Not a thing is

wrong with it but I have too many basses and it

isn't my only 30" hobo. I gigged it as recently

as several weeks ago. Cool ax. Enjoy yours !

 

----------------------

 

FWIW, I prefer no frets on a fully hollow bass,

so my Typhoon II [very similar but not the very

same as the Epi/Uni/etc] is the keeper for me.

SEMI-hollow with frets is cool with me, and so

I'm verrrrry happy with my 30" Epi RumbleKat !

And for my 30" solid body I replaced a Fender

Mustang with a Gibby SG Supreme. 30" is fun

and has different tone than similar 34" basses.

 

 

Good luck with the bridge thing :-)

 

 

 

`

[Gaolee]

I'm glad to see somebody else with enthusiasm for hollow and semi hollow bass guitars.

[Golem]

`

 

Coupla mentions that I fergot about the wheels, and about

cannibalizing. If the shaft spacing on the AllParts bridge is

not suitable, and if the threading of their wheels/shafts is

not same as yours, I'm pretty sure you can safely extract

the wheels-plus-shafts intact from both bridges for a total

swap-out of the AllParts wheels-with-shafts.

 

Also, there is no good reason for the threads to ever wear.

There is, however, a bad/dumb reason:

 

*NEVER* turn the wheels under load. Never ask them to

do any actual work. Always slack the tension to barely

enuf to hold the bridge in its spot [intonation and all that].

Mark the bridge locaton with drafting tape before you ease

the tension.

 

The only job expected of the wheels is to stay put once

the tension is restored. In that context, they are never

turning under load and will last forever and a day. Clearly,

some previous owner of your bass disregarded this rule.

 

---------

 

Another, similar, safe procedure is to detune somewhat,

and haul upward on the strings with your fingers on the 2

or 3 strings nearest ONE wheel, and that one wheel can

then be turned easily [no load]. Do this to one wheel at a

time, and it's perficklee safe for those soft threads.

 

 

 

`

[LZBass]

Thanks for the great feedback. I need replacement wheels as they were removed in a poor attempt to lower the action. I'll try All-Parts. This bass is similar (read "identical") to a Univox, Aria, Conrad, and a few others.

 

 

Thanks again,

 

LZ Bass