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Footswitch for BC30


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I'm looking for a footswitch for my BC30. I've seen that the switch for the SoCal also works on the BC30 but damned if I can find either in stock anywhere. I'm to the point I could buy a third party switch or wire up my own. Anyone know the switch and wiring config? Is it just as simple as 2 on/off switches and a TRS plug? What 3rd party or other brand switches would work for me?

 

Peace,

Mark

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I'm looking for a footswitch for my BC30. I've seen that the switch for the SoCal also works on the BC30 but damned if I can find either in stock anywhere. I'm to the point I could buy a third party switch or wire up my own. Anyone know the switch and wiring config? Is it just as simple as 2 on/off switches and a TRS plug? What 3rd party or other brand switches would work for me?

 

Peace,

Mark

 

Where abouts on the planet are you? With no location on your profile it's difficult to recommend sources.

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Where abouts on the planet are you? With no location on your profile it's difficult to recommend sources.

 

I'm in the US. Indiana, specifically.

 

I've seen the switch listed in the UK but figured I could find a substitute here in the States cheaper...maybe even build a custom switch myself. I have the schematic but I'm not sure how to interpret it.

 

switch01.jpg

 

switch02.jpg

 

Peace,

Mark

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Hi Mark

 

If you'd been in the UK I could have pointed you at a few sources - sorry can't help in this instance.

 

I've noticed that it does look identical to the Marshall Two Button footswitch so maybe someone will be able to say if that would work.

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When I bought my BC30, the store didn't have any Epi foorswitches. They did, however, have a Vox 2-button switch. We plugged it in to test, and it works perfectly --- the left button switches channels and the right turns the reverb on and off. I suspect a Fender switch would work fine too --- just test with your amp to make sure.

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When I bought my BC30, the store didn't have any Epi foorswitches. They did, however, have a Vox 2-button switch. We plugged it in to test, and it works perfectly --- the left button switches channels and the right turns the reverb on and off. I suspect a Fender switch would work fine too --- just test with your amp to make sure.

 

Bought mine from Sweetwater. Don't see it popping up on their website ans MF says it's discontinued. Might want to give Sweetwater a call...maybe they can help you out? Good luck!

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What i'd do to determine proper wiring of plug to match that amp jack:

 

1.) Insert plug only without the screw-on cover,

so you can touch the three solder terminals with a 'test wire'.

 

2.) The test wire is a jumper wire with two alligator clips...

with one gater clip on each end of short test jumper wire.

Now, CONNECT ONE GATOR CLIP to the GROUND TERMINAL

of the PLUG (Main FRAME of the plug).

 

3.) Take the remaining GATOR CLIP of the test wire

and briefly (momentarily) TOUCH one of the two

OTHER SOLDER TERMINALS with the clip....

 

 

 

4.) When briefly TOUCHING the terminals: OBSERVE....

'if what is supposed to happen... ...HAPPENS!'

 

Wholla.... you have discovered HOW to wire the plug.

 

 

The schematic shows that the plug will have voltages passing

through it that power-up the relay coils.

WRITE IT DOWN ON PAPER after you wire it, so you can wire

another if need be without testing next time.

 

Heck, i used a sewing-machine foot switch and even old

cassette tape-recorder foot-switches on amps and Casio

keyboards... once you know the wiring... anything can

be used for a silly switch.

 

 

CHEEKS

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What i'd do to determine proper wiring of plug to match that amp jack:

 

1.) Insert plug only without the screw-on cover,

so you can touch the three solder terminals with a 'test wire'.

 

2.) The test wire is a jumper wire with two alligator clips...

with one gater clip on each end of short test jumper wire.

Now, CONNECT ONE GATOR CLIP to the GROUND TERMINAL

of the PLUG (Main FRAME of the plug).

 

3.) Take the remaining GATOR CLIP of the test wire

and briefly (momentarily) TOUCH one of the two

OTHER SOLDER TERMINALS with the clip....

 

Can you explain to me.....what happens at node #3 and node #4 of the jack? It looks like #3 is not connected to anything.....? So I am not sure I understand how anything gets turned On/Off with that part of the switch.

Thank You

 

 

 

4.) When briefly TOUCHING the terminals: OBSERVE....

'if what is supposed to happen... ...HAPPENS!'

 

Wholla.... you have discovered HOW to wire the plug.

 

 

The schematic shows that the plug will have voltages passing

through it that power-up the relay coils.

WRITE IT DOWN ON PAPER after you wire it, so you can wire

another if need be without testing next time.

 

Heck, i used a sewing-machine foot switch and even old

cassette tape-recorder foot-switches on amps and Casio

keyboards... once you know the wiring... anything can

be used for a silly switch.

 

 

CHEEKS

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What i'd do to determine proper wiring of plug to match that amp jack:

 

1.) Insert plug only without the screw-on cover,

so you can touch the three solder terminals with a 'test wire'.

 

2.) The test wire is a jumper wire with two alligator clips...

with one gater clip on each end of short test jumper wire.

Now, CONNECT ONE GATOR CLIP to the GROUND TERMINAL

of the PLUG (Main FRAME of the plug).

 

3.) Take the remaining GATOR CLIP of the test wire

and briefly (momentarily) TOUCH one of the two

OTHER SOLDER TERMINALS with the clip....

 

 

 

4.) When briefly TOUCHING the terminals: OBSERVE....

'if what is supposed to happen... ...HAPPENS!'

 

Wholla.... you have discovered HOW to wire the plug.

 

 

The schematic shows that the plug will have voltages passing

through it that power-up the relay coils.

WRITE IT DOWN ON PAPER after you wire it, so you can wire

another if need be without testing next time.

 

Heck, i used a sewing-machine foot switch and even old

cassette tape-recorder foot-switches on amps and Casio

keyboards... once you know the wiring... anything can

be used for a silly switch.

 

 

CHEEKS

 

Thanks Cheeks. That's a great idea. I'll give it a try. I'm thinking that a standard 2 switch pedal is all I need.

 

Peace,

Mark

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After searching the net forever only to be stone-walled at every merchant who could have possibly had a footswitch, I gave up and sort of made my own.

 

On the BC30, connecting the tip to to the sleeve (ground) will switch to the clean channel, which I determined by the method Cheeks described. Connecting the ring to the sleeve turns the reverb off.

 

I had an old 1-button footswitch laying in a box. I dont really turn the reverb off so 1 button will get the job done.

 

Being a 1-button, it had a mono jack which would have killed the reverb by default. So my first attempt was to tape over the area of the jack that would be the ring. Well, once I put the jack condom on it didnt fit in the hole anymore...I guess I'd never run into that problem before for obvious reasons...

 

Anyway I had half of a stereo cable laying around so I just soldered that to the footswich wires and left the ring wire unconnected. Problem solved.

 

I cant turn off the reverb but it changes channels perfectly.

 

If I wasnt so lazy, I could build a proper footswitch with LEDs using 2 stomp-switches, I think. I think it would look like this:

 

footswitch.jpg

 

I dont guarantee that would work, but thats what I'd try first.

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Quote from FUSE:

Can you explain to me.....what happens at node #3 and node #4 of the jack? It looks like #3 is not connected to anything.....? So I am not sure I understand how anything gets turned On/Off with that part of the switch.

Thank You

 

 

Well, you are correct.... Lug 4 is just a 'contact' and

lug 3 is indeed going nowhere.

 

Typical switching wiring in circuits requires a 'common ground'

and switching means you need more than one item TO SWITCH.

Therefore, you would require at least 2 HOT WIRES TO SWITCH

and BOTH would use the COMMON GROUND (both share the same ground).

Now, IF you stare at the schematic long enough, and start to

mentally trace the wiring... including the SHARED GROUND...

things should start popping in your brain...

Pins 1 & 2 are ALL GROUNDING...

the other two pins 4 & 5 would be the actual HOT switching wires I'd say...

BECAUSE...

AFTER THE PLUG IS INSERTED... pins 4 & 5 would do their magic !

Pin 4 always at the ready... pin 5 would be released from contact

FROM pin 6.

 

CHEEKS

 

ps - I use terms like: pin, terminal, lug, they are all solder terminals.

All the same thing... (to me anyway...)

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