Non=Reverse Thunderbird

[Gaolee]

What's the likelihood of Epiphone making non-reverse Thunderbirds again? I love the way my normal (if any Thunderbird is normal) one sounds, but even after moving the strap button to the body at the base of the neck, it is still a bit neck heavy. It is the bottom line model with a bolt on neck, so those of you who get excited about drilling holes in expensive instruments can relax now. A non-reverse should have the same sound but balance better.

[RobinTheHood]

I'd say slim to none. And if they do start making them again, it would probably be a limited run. As much as we love them, I dont think they were in that high demand. Hard to say though, really.

 

As for sounding like your regular T-bird, the non-reverse birds had a few diffrerent pickup configs, so the chances of it sounding like a T-bird are not likely. The most common ones you will find are the 90's Korean models with P/J pickup configs. I guarantee they dont sound like a modern T-bird with mini hums. That, and I dont know if they would actually be lighter. Its basically the same body flipped upside down.

[Gaolee]

Lighter isn't the issue, it's the balance, as all of you know. It's too bad, since I really like the 'Bird and it would be even better with better balance. It's the low end model made in China with a bolt on neck, but it sounds much better than it has any right to.

[RobinTheHood]

I dont know if the balance would actually be any different that a normal T-bird. The body isnt reversed (as in left to right), its upside down...meaning that the top horn is on the bottom and vice-versa. I dont see how this would change the balance at all.

 

If anything (and it might just be an optical illusion), the body, to me, looks smaller than a normal bird - which means it could be more neck-heavy. Not sure though. Anyone here with a non-rev that can attest to the balance? Eggmuffins?

[Gaolee]

The reason I would expect better balance is because the strap button would be farther toward the head of the neck. It's not by much, but it's still in a better place than even my relocated strap button.

[RobinTheHood]

I guess that would make sense. I didnt think of it that way.

[saxdragon]

I just bought a non-rev yesterday (to match my '68 non-rev Gibson Firebird) and I can tell you if anything, it's MORE neck-heavy than the reverse T-bird (one of which I also own).

[RobinTheHood]

So I was right. Thanks for sharing!

[Golem]

I just bought a non-rev yesterday (to match my '68 non-rev Gibson Firebird)

and I can tell you if anything, it's MORE neck-heavy than the reverse T-bird

(one of which I also own).

I wonder if the REAR strap pin on the non-reverse

is further back [away from neck]. That can have the

effect you describe.

 

Now I admit to not know these Birds up close and

personal .... but here's what I do know, practical

stuff about hang balance and strap pin location.

 

Imagine an ax hanging only by its front strap pin,

one that is pretty much level balanced that way

[which is pretty commonly the case]. Now ... put

two rear strap pins on it, at different distances

from the neck. Pulling upward on either pin will

generate some neck dive. Due to a shorter lever

length [front pin is pivot of the lever] you will

need to exert more force to lift the pin that is

closer to the neck. Get the idea ?

 

I don't know much about Birds, but IF the rear pin

on a non-reverse is somehow further BACK, that

can increase neck dive .... possibly negating the

benefit of having the front pin a bit more forward.

 

BTW, for those willing to drill 2 holes in the

back side of their Bird, relief is just $30 away:

 

http://accessories.musiciansfriend.com/product/Steinberger-Synapse-Bass-Strap-Hook-with-Screws?sku=369900

 

If you insist on using a custom fitted hard case,

you'll need to be a bit inventive .....

 

Make the hook pivot away.

or

Make it quickly removable [brass inserts]

or

Modify your case lining.

 

Gig bag should be no problemo.

 

 

 

`

[Gaolee]

I wonder if the REAR strap pin on the non-reverse

is further back [away from neck]. That can have the

effect you describe.

 

Now I admit to not know these Birds up close and

personal .... but here's what I do know, practical

stuff about hang balance and strap pin location.

 

Imagine an ax hanging only by its front strap pin,

one that is pretty much level balanced that way

[which is pretty commonly the case]. Now ... put

two rear strap pins on it, at different distances

from the neck. Pulling upward on either pin will

generate some neck dive. Due to a shorter lever

length [front pin is pivot of the lever] you will

need to exert more force to lift the pin that is

closer to the neck. Get the idea ?

 

I don't know much about Birds, but IF the rear pin

on a non-reverse is somehow further BACK, that

can increase neck dive .... possibly negating the

benefit of having the front pin a bit more forward.

 

BTW, for those willing to drill 2 holes in the

back side of their Bird, relief is just $30 away:

 

http://accessories.musiciansfriend.com/product/Steinberger-Synapse-Bass-Strap-Hook-with-Screws?sku=369900

 

If you insist on using a custom fitted hard case,

you'll need to be a bit inventive .....

 

Make the hook pivot away.

or

Make it quickly removable [brass inserts]

or

Modify your case lining.

 

Gig bag should be no problemo.

 

 

 

`

 

 

Interesting hook. I use straplocks on my 'Bird since I generally like the neck at a steep, near vertical angle. It makes for a bit of weirdness with a Thunderbird, but it actually helps with neck dive for the moment arm reasons you mention in your comments about strap button location. The concern with a hook is what would happen when the neck angle gets steep enough to start making the strap likely to pop off of the hook. I suppose another solution would be to attach the strap to the neck at its head like you would an acoustic guitar, but I'm not concerned enough about the balance to do something quite as odd looking. Vanity does actually kick in eventually.

[Golem]

..... The concern with a hook is what would happen when

the neck angle gets steep enough to start making the strap

likely to pop off of the hook. .......

If you take a good look at the hook, you'll see that

when the neck is nearly vertical the slot is pointed

straight downward, thus offering maximum security

vs gravity .... unless you energetically leap stright

up and down while playing. Other stage gyrations

would be quite safe, such as spinning, rocking ....

but if it's your job to direct the other players with

a skyward thrust of the neck ... oooopz, yes you

COULD lift the ax right offa the strap !

 

I'm not into stage gymnastics, I just play. And I

like a pretty steep neck angle. For me it works.

Altho I never had to CHOOSE this device, cuz

my 'Berger includes one, I'm seriously thinking

of ordering a 3 of them from MF. I have some odd

basses that I've done balance-fix tricks to, but the

hook would be a better answer on those, like my

Godin A4 and a similar, custom-built ax. Both are

semihollow body, full 34" neck, without top horn.

 

And both are FL. I find supporting a neck-in-hand

is more annoying with FL, where fluid freedom of

motion is important. I often play FL with my right

hand well up onto the neck, and the hook shifts

the bass to my right, so my right hand doesn't

hafta reach across my own body's centerline to

play on the neck.

 

 

 

`

[Gaolee]

Sounds like it is worth a try. Drilling holes in this particular instrument will not cause any disturbance to anybody anywhere.

[saxdragon]

I don't have a problem with neck dive IF i use my 4 inch wide leather strap with the suede on the inside. If you use a slippery strap, it's a problem. Just use a wide strap with a rough inside surface. Glue a strip of terrycloth to it, or something.

[saxdragon]

I wonder if the REAR strap pin on the non-reverse

is further back [away from neck]. That can have the

effect you describe.

 

Now I admit to not know these Birds up close and

personal .... but here's what I do know, practical

stuff about hang balance and strap pin location.

 

Imagine an ax hanging only by its front strap pin,

one that is pretty much level balanced that way

[which is pretty commonly the case]. Now ... put

two rear strap pins on it, at different distances

from the neck. Pulling upward on either pin will

generate some neck dive. Due to a shorter lever

length [front pin is pivot of the lever] you will

need to exert more force to lift the pin that is

closer to the neck. Get the idea ?

 

I don't know much about Birds, but IF the rear pin

on a non-reverse is somehow further BACK, that

can increase neck dive .... possibly negating the

benefit of having the front pin a bit more forward.

 

BTW, for those willing to drill 2 holes in the

back side of their Bird, relief is just $30 away:

 

http://accessories.musiciansfriend.com/product/Steinberger-Synapse-Bass-Strap-Hook-with-Screws?sku=369900

 

If you insist on using a custom fitted hard case,

you'll need to be a bit inventive .....

 

Make the hook pivot away.

or

Make it quickly removable [brass inserts]

or

Modify your case lining.

 

Gig bag should be no problemo.

 

 

It occurs to me that the Reverse Epi Tbird i owned had a neckdive problem. It wasn't as pronounced as my non-reverse. But when it was hanging off me, the strap that was connected to the back button was pulling to the side...actually pulling the rear body of the bass closer to my body. Which probably reduced the upward-lifting effect you described. So I would say, it's better to move the strap FARTHER away.

 

 

 

`