Question about electric guitar potentiometers (pots)

[Cheeks]

The question concerns 'the taper of the pots'.

 

I would assume the volume control pots on a guitar

use AUDIO TAPER pots. (Correct me if I am wrong please).

 

What type of taper do the TONE POTS use ?

Audio taper -or- Linear taper ?

 

Thanks.

 

CHEEKS

[Sjael]

The question concerns 'the taper of the pots'.

 

I would assume the volume control pots on a guitar

use AUDIO TAPER pots. (Correct me if I am wrong please).

 

What type of taper do the TONE POTS use ?

Audio taper -or- Linear taper ?

 

Thanks.

 

CHEEKS

You are correct that volume uses audio-taper pots. Tone pots can use linear or taper.

[Cheeks]

You are correct that volume uses audio-taper pots. Tone pots can use linear or taper.

 

Thank you Sir,

I guess now that I know, should the need arise from a failed pot,

I could salvage a used one or go to Radio Shack and buy a new

cheapie.

 

Thanks again.

 

CHEEKS

[KX36]

I've just written a long lnog explanation of pot tapers on another thread "No tone on my Epi G400!" page 3. I can't link to it right now because I'm on a stupid windows CE terminal without a clipboard to copy and paste the URL, but the gist is this:

 

Tone control should always be logarithmic; a linear one will put most of the action of the knob at 2-3 unless volume is too low to hear anyway.

 

Volume control should usually be linear; the exception being people who leave their tone control at 10. A log one will put most of the action of the control at around 7-10 unless tone is at 10, in which case it will just about be a smooth transition, but if tone is any less than 10, volume control will be squashed up into the very top of the knob.

 

I've blogged a rediculously longwinded explanation here, feel free to skim through it or just look at the graphs if you feel like it:

http://matthelyar.blogspot.com/2010/07/introduction-if-you-spend-any-time.html

[RobinTheHood]

I've blogged a rediculously longwinded explanation here, feel free to skim through it or just look at the graphs if you feel like it:

http://matthelyar.bl...d-any-time.html

 

Nice. If that isnt linked in Animal Farm's DIY thread, it should be!

[Cheeks]

I've just written a long lnog explanation of pot tapers on another thread "No tone on my Epi G400!" page 3. I can't link to it right now because I'm on a stupid windows CE terminal without a clipboard to copy and paste the URL, but the gist is this:

 

Tone control should always be logarithmic; a linear one will put most of the action of the knob at 2-3 unless volume is too low to hear anyway.

 

Volume control should usually be linear; the exception being people who leave their tone control at 10. A log one will put most of the action of the control at around 7-10 unless tone is at 10, in which case it will just about be a smooth transition, but if tone is any less than 10, volume control will be squashed up into the very top of the knob.

 

I've blogged a rediculously longwinded explanation here, feel free to skim through it or just look at the graphs if you feel like it:

http://matthelyar.blogspot.com/2010/07/introduction-if-you-spend-any-time.html

http://matthelyar.blogspot.com/2010/07/introduction-if-you-spend-any-time.html

That essay and graphs at the link look a bit like

lab-tech workups... very well done and with the

proper technique I will say.

Well written and matter of factly written which

is what it should be. Nice job !

Some electronics tech writers are very sloppy,

but you did a commendable job indeed.

 

The differences displayed in your graphs is

typical of electronics circuitry, in that

when one starts to use parallel circuit branches,

things start happening that are not easy

to see without the plotting. Again, nice job.

 

All that plotting and changing of parts to run

the experiments takes an inordinary amount of

time and thus you spent hours on the experiments.

Well done.

 

The fact you explained the interaction between

both pots is really a plus. You explain the

interaction well enough for anyone to understand.

 

Thanks for the posting. I saved myself a copy here

for my future 'guitar reference'...

CHEEKS

[animalfarm]

I've just written a long lnog explanation of pot tapers on another thread "No tone on my Epi G400!" page 3.

I've blogged a rediculously longwinded explanation here, feel free to skim through it or just look at the graphs if you feel like it:

 

http://matthelyar.blogspot.com/2010/07/introduction-if-you-spend-any-time.html

 

 

Nice. If that isnt linked in Animal Farm's DIY thread, it should be!

 

 

DONE! It's in under the Epiphone Lounge "DIY" Sticky: "POTENTIOMETER and WIRING" Sub-section....

Now has 4 entries, starting with simple and becoming increasingly complex, if one wishes to delve

into more technical explanations....

 

While I was at it, went ahead and added links to FREE Backing Tracks, and FREE SONG

LYRICS (Misc. Stuff Section), and a "How to Re-Shine a DULLED Poly finish" just in case

you've changed your mind after dulling your own. It's under the "Remove Scratches" section....

 

Also additional link under "ACOUSTIC GUITAR" Section... Repair, care, maintenance, adjustments,

etc....

[KX36]

Thanks for the compliments. :)

 

To me, this was great procrastination for a couple of evenings when I had more boring work to be doing. I hadn't posted it directly before because I didn't think I explained it very clearly.

 

Animalfarm's thread's been very useful to me!

I expect that scratch removal information will be usefull too after my guitar got a big gash from the Stagg hardcase it's been in for 4 years with no previous problem. The edge of the lining overlapped in the lid and where the overlap was had been glued, had gone hard and was therefore sharp. Typical, I took good care of it while modding and fret leveling only to have it damaged within its protective case.