Kzin Posted December 19, 2010 Share Posted December 19, 2010 I have a SG standard I bought new a couple of years ago and a LP I bought used wich I have later had pleked. For some reason the SG is easier to play when it comes to bending notes, even though the action is a litle higher on the SG. I use the same strings on both guitars. I have some ideas but maybe someone knows? 1. The relief on the LP is straighter which makes the active string longer. 2. I have heard that how the end piece of the bridge is set affects string tension? How does this work, and how should it be set? 3. The frets on the sg are a little higher. The guys who plecked the LP made a little compund radius to allow for bigger bends with lower action, could this affetc the playability? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onlyme Posted December 19, 2010 Share Posted December 19, 2010 Without knowing which models you have of LP and SG, is it possible you have completely different neck profiles on your two guitars? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DiamondJig Posted December 19, 2010 Share Posted December 19, 2010 if they both have the same strings, i would look at the height of the stop bar, the higher the easier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pippy Posted December 20, 2010 Share Posted December 20, 2010 Some people say top-wrapping the strings allows for a slinkier feeling and bends are easier on the fingers. I'm not overly familiar with the SG. Does it have the same neck-pitch as the LP? If the LP has a steeper pitch then the relative angles of strings over bridge saddles may be different between the two instruments. Might have an effect, I suppose? P. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gator Slim Posted December 20, 2010 Share Posted December 20, 2010 Bigger/Jumbo frets make for easier bends. If you have meatier frets on the SG, that is probably part of the answer your playability question. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
strat-o-steve Posted December 21, 2010 Share Posted December 21, 2010 I experience this issue as well. My Melody Maker has really low action, and is strung with 10's, and my Les Paul has higher action and is strung with the same strings. My Les Paul plays easier, hands down! Maybe it comes down to the neck shape, in addition to the things the others have mentioned. My LP has the huge 50's neck, and maybe my hand does not have to close so much before the strings get fretted? I know both guitars have the 50's neck, but the MM feels much more of a C shape and is thinner, whereas the LP has a very pronounced D feel and is thick as heck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kzin Posted December 30, 2010 Author Share Posted December 30, 2010 I have noticed that the stopbar tailpiece on the LP is lower on the treble side. Is that how it is supposed to be? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kzin Posted January 1, 2011 Author Share Posted January 1, 2011 I raised the treble side of the tailpiece (after tuning down). That side is still lower than the bass side, but the feeling is a bit looser now. My SG still feels a little looser though. Do anyone know what the factory height of the tailpiece are on a les paul? The bass side is supposed to be a little higher than the treble side right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EvanPC Posted January 1, 2011 Share Posted January 1, 2011 I don't have an SG, but I've been wondering about the height of my stopbar tail as well. I've finally worked up enough courage try setting up my own guitar, and after 5 or 6 attempts to get everything acceptible, I think I've got it. However, I've been wondering about the height of my stop bar since adjusting the bridge height all those times. Coincidentally, I also just received Dan Erlewine's book on guitar repair and maintenance. He mentions (in the little bit I've read so far), that he believes your strings should CLEAR the back edge of the bridge. I noticed that my strings, for instance, as they exited the stop bar, shot up at a sharp angle and rested on the edge of the bridge BEFORE making contact with the saddle. After some additional adjustments to my bridge height, nearly all of my strings clear the backside of the bridge except for the high E. Because the action is where I want it, this tells me my next move should be adjusting the stop bar. At any rate, I've been considering also adjusting the treble side of mine to see if it plays any better. I have an Ibanez semi-hollowybody with the same strings and it feels way easier than my LP. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kzin Posted January 1, 2011 Author Share Posted January 1, 2011 I don't have an SG, but I've been wondering about the height of my stopbar tail as well. I've finally worked up enough courage try setting up my own guitar, and after 5 or 6 attempts to get everything acceptible, I think I've got it. However, I've been wondering about the height of my stop bar since adjusting the bridge height all those times. Coincidentally, I also just received Dan Erlewine's book on guitar repair and maintenance. He mentions (in the little bit I've read so far), that he believes your strings should CLEAR the back edge of the bridge. I noticed that my strings, for instance, as they exited the stop bar, shot up at a sharp angle and rested on the edge of the bridge BEFORE making contact with the saddle. After some additional adjustments to my bridge height, nearly all of my strings clear the backside of the bridge except for the high E. Because the action is where I want it, this tells me my next move should be adjusting the stop bar. At any rate, I've been considering also adjusting the treble side of mine to see if it plays any better. I have an Ibanez semi-hollowybody with the same strings and it feels way easier than my LP. My LP definently plays better now (not as good as my SG just yet, so I might raise the tailpiece a bit more), so I would give it a try. I read somewhere that you should tune down before doing any adjustments. Does the book say anything about how high it should be? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T Bone Posted January 1, 2011 Share Posted January 1, 2011 I'm pretty certain your strings should not touch the bridge itself at all, only the saddles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nosbig Posted January 2, 2011 Share Posted January 2, 2011 I have a SG standard I bought new a couple of years ago and a LP I bought used wich I have later had pleked. For some reason the SG is easier to play when it comes to bending notes, even though the action is a litle higher on the SG. I use the same strings on both guitars. I have some ideas but maybe someone knows? 1. The relief on the LP is straighter which makes the active string longer. 2. I have heard that how the end piece of the bridge is set affects string tension? How does this work, and how should it be set? 3. The frets on the sg are a little higher. The guys who plecked the LP made a little compund radius to allow for bigger bends with lower action, could this affetc the playability? Just intersted why you would want to put a compound rad. on your Les Paul? Its gotta be the easiest guitar to bend on anyway??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kzin Posted January 2, 2011 Author Share Posted January 2, 2011 @nosbig The guys who did the pleking rekomended it if I remember correctly. But yeah, you realy dont need it on a 12" fretboard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nosbig Posted January 2, 2011 Share Posted January 2, 2011 @nosbig The guys who did the pleking rekomended it if I remember correctly. But yeah, you realy dont need it on a 12" fretboard Thats interesting? I have to say Im not inpressed at all with pleking guitars? Ive had to re set-up dozens in the the past so that method doesnt impress me at all!! Terry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Searcy Posted January 2, 2011 Share Posted January 2, 2011 The neck on my SG is not as thick as the one on my Les Paul. I assume that part of the reason they feel so different. I like the feel of the SG but the sound of the Les Paul. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kzin Posted January 3, 2011 Author Share Posted January 3, 2011 I don't get in. The tailpiece is actually higher on my LP but my SG still is easier to play. Could neck relief have anything to do with it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EvanPC Posted January 3, 2011 Share Posted January 3, 2011 I don't get in. The tailpiece is actually higher on my LP but my SG still is easier to play. Could neck relief have anything to do with it? Higher relative to what? The bridge? I'm not sure it's something to be "concerned" about it. I've got a Camry with a steering wheel that turns nice and easy, but that doesn't mean it's better than a tightly tuned sports car with firm handling. Know what I mean? By the way, the book I mentioned did not saying anything about an appropriate height for the stop bar. At least, nothing I've read yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kzin Posted January 3, 2011 Author Share Posted January 3, 2011 Yes, relative to the bridge. It has less break angle than My SG. I'm gonna try some fingerpicking on open strings to make sure it hasnt got anything to do with the lower frets on the LP, that its actually a string tension issue. But from what Ive gathered string tension is lower on a shorter scale guitar, and with lower break angle at the nut and bridge. Both are gibson guitars so scale is the same. Maybe the nut is cut a little differntly on the lp which makes the break angle at the nut higher. Shouldnt more neck relief make for less string tension since that would make the scale a bit shorter? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kzin Posted January 3, 2011 Author Share Posted January 3, 2011 I noticed the tuners are a little different. On the LP the holes where the string goes are a little lower. Shouldnt that lead to sharper brake angle at the nut and more string tension? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
69 Son Posted January 3, 2011 Share Posted January 3, 2011 Seriously? This is being analyzed to death Simple answer is the SG neck better suits your hand, whether that neck is thinner or thicker. Lowering the tailpiece flush with the body increases string tension, raised up makes the strings "slinkier". Which one feels better is up to you. The Plek't on my Les Paul is perfect, ultra low action w/ no fret buzz, but the Slim-Taper neck profile od the 61 RI SG fits my hand/ technique better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wild_Rose Posted January 3, 2011 Share Posted January 3, 2011 Seriously? This is being analyzed to death Simple answer is the SG neck better suits your hand, whether that neck is thinner or thicker. +1000 plus, the SG has a thinner body. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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