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Building a Speaker Cabinet


Andre S

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I wish I could do dovetails though....even though I am tolexing it, dovetails are extremely pretty. Finger Joints, which I have already done once, I feel more comfortable doing. But there is one nice video on youtube that makes it look very easy.

 

Who knows....maybe I will give it a shot.

 

I've played around with both. I think the dovetails are a little more work but you need less of them.

 

 

 

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Here's a riddle to anyone interested in the progress:

 

What's red, in your body and drips everywhere when a sharp chisel slams into your thumb?

 

[biggrin]

 

[crying][crying]

 

Owie.

 

I need to find another way to flatten the base of each joint, because it keeps chipping, I already had to glue in some chips.....luckily I found them and I happened to pick up some C clamps today....so its all set till tomorrow.

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It may help if you place a board or a block of wood larger than you're using, and a rubber mallet. Place the block over the area of impact. Use the rubber mallet whenever you can in place of a regular hammer.

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I don't use a hammer....In the tutorial videos I saw that they just pushed down on the chisel, which works really well as long as its sharp.

 

I will use a small stanleyy trimming plane that can fit 1 1/2 times in the joint. That will be good.

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I don't use a hammer....In the tutorial videos I saw that they just pushed down on the chisel, which works really well as long as its sharp.

 

I will use a small stanleyy trimming plane that can fit 1 1/2 times in the joint. That will be good.

That sounds like a good plan. [thumbup]

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I would recommend Baltic Birch ply instead of white pine for the cabinet.

 

We actually already went through this scenario with him. He is unable to get Baltic Birch ply where he lives and the original and even some repro fender cabinets actually do use white pine. Surprised me as well.....

 

 

 

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Sorry no pics yet. I can't find my camera.....anyway I finished up the cab, the ply came today, I'm ready to glue it. Unfortunately I have no pipe clamps or long enough clamps, and the carpenter I know only has two, and can't find one, but he will bring the other for me tomorrow, hopefully.

 

So I will use some weights, the clamp, the set square and everything I have to glue it up....at that rate, it may take up till 4 days to properly glue and fill any gaps....but I can't wait to start on the baffle and the back! I'll wait till the cab is glued up before I cut the baffle and back.

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You should check out Kreg Screw Joinery. This actually works great and even if you do finger joints etc.. you can use them as a "Clamp"

 

I used them to build the legs and base of my mixing desk.

 

http://forum.gibson.com/index.php?/topic/61068-project-1-build-my-own-mixing-desk/ ( made from 13 ply Baltic Birch [tongue] )

 

Check out their site. This product really does work well!

 

http://www.kregjoint.com/

 

Pics of your cab ASAP!

 

 

Andy

 

 

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You should check out Kreg Screw Joinery. This actually works great and even if you do finger joints etc.. you can use them as a "Clamp"

 

I used them to build the legs and base of my mixing desk.

 

http://forum.gibson.com/index.php?/topic/61068-project-1-build-my-own-mixing-desk/ ( made from 13 ply Baltic Birch [tongue] )

 

[crying][crying]

 

Can't even get a simple pipe clamp either... [crying]

 

[flapper]

 

Check out their site. This product really does work well!

 

http://www.kregjoint.com/

 

Pics of your cab ASAP!

 

Andy

 

Yup....good news, I found the camera, so three days of work will be uploaded later.....Maybe I will get the Kreg....but after, I get a circular saw.

 

I saw a nice Skil saw for $70 which is $50 online but cheaper locally when you consider shipping.

 

Would the skil brand be ok for me or get a better one right away?

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