Dougefresh91 Posted January 26, 2011 Author Share Posted January 26, 2011 I was just setting out the series of steps used to do a basic set-up, more advanced set-ups could include fret levelling, fret dressing and custom fitting a nut, but that is far too advanced for your situation. If your happy with the straightness of the neck you can ignore that step, adjusting the string height on a Fender is child's play, there a 2 grub screws on each saddle, 1 either side of the string where it passes over the saddle, using an allen key simply back the screws off (ccw) to drop the height, work one side then the other so that it remains reasonably level as you are making the adjustments, re-tune before testing with a firm picking. As mentioned in a previous post, I like to drop mine till I just start to get fret buzz, then I de-tune and screw them back in (cw) about 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn each to raise it slightly, making sure the saddle sits level when finished, then it's simply a matter of re-tuning and running a final test. Test by using a firm picking action and fretting up and down the fretboard to make sure you don't have a problem with buzzing etc on any of the fretted notes, you may have to make minor tweaks to get all the fretted notes buzz free, this depends a lot on the condition and straightness of the frets, that's why I recommended checking the neck first. Remember, when raising the height of a saddle, de-tune the string first because raising it adds more tension. And I always start on the low E (6th string) and work my way towards the treble strings, just seems logical to me, though not necessary. Alright thanks. I'm gonna hopefully try this after work today and I'll post how it went. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dougefresh91 Posted February 8, 2011 Author Share Posted February 8, 2011 I finally got a chance to try this. I decided to go right to the bridge adjustment. I kept tightening the screws in 1/4 turn increments while measuring. It worked but I got to a point where I couldn't tighten them and the bridge was no longer "floating" but locked in place. So I backed them up a 1/4 turn, retuned, and the action is still too high. What should I try next? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fringe Lunatic Posted February 8, 2011 Share Posted February 8, 2011 I finally got a chance to try this. I decided to go right to the bridge adjustment. I kept tightening the screws in 1/4 turn increments while measuring. It worked but I got to a point where I couldn't tighten them and the bridge was no longer "floating" but locked in place. So I backed them up a 1/4 turn, retuned, and the action is still too high. What should I try next? It appears that the neck angle is the culprit. A shim on the lower side of the neck pocket should do the trick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dougefresh91 Posted February 8, 2011 Author Share Posted February 8, 2011 It appears that the neck angle is the culprit. A shim on the lower side of the neck pocket should do the trick. That's exactly what my boss just told me when I was explaining this to him. Adding a shim sounds hard. Is it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brad1 Posted February 8, 2011 Share Posted February 8, 2011 Adding a shim sounds hard. Is it? No. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dougefresh91 Posted February 9, 2011 Author Share Posted February 9, 2011 I adjusted the micro-adjustment thing on the neck plate. Gave it about a half turn clockwise and that did the trick pretty well. There's slight buzzing, but it can't be heard through the amp so I don't really care. Thanks, Rastus, and everyone, for the help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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