2010 Faded Chery Studio Bridge Problem

[larryc]

I purchased my Faded Studio a few weeks ago and posted some question regarding the stop bar and bridge back then. I received some suggestions from the members as to proper Gibson setup. Today I tried to setup the guitar using the factory suggested method for string clearance at the bridge. This is what I have run into.

 

Originally the stop bar was cranked all the way down. The strings touched the bridge as they broke over it. I experimented with stop bar height to try to get the strings to clear the bridge. I was not able to get all the strings to clear and have stop bar positioned correctly. I ended up just returning the guitar to the setup it had from the store [stop bar fully down against the body with strings touching rear of the bridge. I played it that way for a few weeks and decided today to shoot for what I understand [and have been told] is the correct setup.

 

Long story short, I cannot make the High E string clear the bridge. The B,G,D,A & Low E will clear but even with the stop bar cranked up 3/32" higher on the High E side than the Low E side, the high E string still touches the bridge. The stop bar is cock-eyed as hell setup like this. If anything, it seems to me the stop bar should be slightly higher on the Low E side rather than the High E side because of string gauge and action height difference between the Low E vs High E.

 

The only thing that I can see that could cause this is the string saddle for the High E String. It's like that particular saddle is too short in height. Note also that I even lowered the action on that end of the bridge to 2/64" in an attempt to get the string to clear the bridge. The 2/64 action height pretty much kills the brilliance of the High E string so even if it allowed the string to clear the bridge....it's not a viable work around. It's got to go back to at least 3/64"

 

The main reason I'm trying to set the guitar up to Gibson's stop bar / bridge specs is to get it to play a bit easier. I previously dropped down from the standard 10-46 strings to D'addario's 9.5 - 44 to lighten the playing action but switched back to 10-46 and shot for the Gibson spec setup. If I keep this guitar, the 9.5 - 44's are going back on it.

My link

 

Action heights are at 12th using capo on 1st fret.

 

Q- Why just this one string showing that problem?

 

Q- Is it common for low end Les Pauls to ship with inferior bridge parts?

 

At this point, I'm really at a loss for what I will do next. Calling Gibson is a definite but I may just return the guitar and go with something else.

 

When viewing the bridge, looking over the stop bar from below the stop bar, the saddle heights follow the curve of the fretboard. Low E is low, then A a little higher, The D & G are higher but equal, the B lower, the High E low again like the Low E saddle.

 

Q- What would you guys with years of playing and Gibson ownership suggest?

[surfpup]

I think the studio's bridge parts are identical to the ones on all Les Pauls. They aren't good,

but that is not the problem. I'd say drop the tailpiece all the way down and top wrap the strings

(insert them backwards through the tail piece and wrap them over toward the headstock. (I'll include

a picture). This maximizes your sustain by tightening the tailpiece down and eliminates the problem

with the strings hitting the Tune-o-matic (TOM) bridge.

 

[larryc]

I think the studio's bridge parts are identical to the ones on all Les Pauls. They aren't good,

but that is not the problem. I'd say drop the tailpiece all the way down and top wrap the strings

(insert them backwards through the tail piece and wrap them over toward the headstock. (I'll include

a picture). This maximizes your sustain by tightening the tailpiece down and eliminates the problem

with the strings hitting the Tune-o-matic (TOM) bridge.

 

 

Thank you for your reply. That's something I've been considering. I consider the guitar to be defective though and I want it brought up to design specs rather than what obviously is QC acceptability. Maybe I'm being too picky, then again I'm just wanting the product [with all the hype behind the name] to live up to expectations.

[badbluesplayer]

You keep saying that you think there's a problem with the guitar, like its defective or something. I have followed your threads about your problem. Are you saying that you can't raise the stopbar enough so that the strings clear the bridge? If you can't raise the stopbar enough to get the strings to clear the bridge, then the guitar is defective. If you can raise the stopbar enough so that the strings all clear the bridge without the stopbar coming unscrewed from the guitar, then the guitar is fine and you'll need to get it set up properly. The stopbar is not designed to be even. Its designed to be adjusted up or down at either or both ends to accomodate the geometry of the bridge and the strings.

 

You can top wrap the stopbar like Surfpup does and it will help. But at the same time, you should figure out whether the guitar is really defective so you can return it if it is.

[larryc]

You keep saying that you think there's a problem with the guitar, like its defective or something. I have followed your threads about your problem. Are you saying that you can't raise the stopbar enough so that the strings clear the bridge? If you can't raise the stopbar enough to get the strings to clear the bridge, then the guitar is defective. If you can raise the stopbar enough so that the strings all clear the bridge without the stopbar coming unscrewed from the guitar, then the guitar is fine and you'll need to get it set up properly. The stopbar is not designed to be even. Its designed to be adjusted up or down at either or both ends to accomodate the geometry of the bridge and the strings.

 

You can top wrap the stopbar like Surfpup does and it will help. But at the same time, you should figure out whether the guitar is really defective so you can return it if it is.

 

I agree with everything you're saying. I went to swap it yesterday. They have no more faded cherry in stock and the techs think I'm crazy to worry about it. Maybe I'm just too old. I still care about things being made properly and QC catching issues before the product goes out the door. A simple 45 degree bevel on the edge of the bridges before they get chromed would completely eliminate the situation.

 

Gibson says they should't touch. FINE, the get your QC people to start checking things before production runs begin. If you compare bridges on the studios to to those on some of the higher end LP's, you'll see there's a difference in thickness of material right where this particular situation shows up. It's a simple engineering oversight.

 

As is, would you want yours adjusted so the stop bar had to sit way high on one end and have the High E string still touching while all the rest cleared the bridge? I looked it over close when I put strings on it, the bridge is getting grooves worn into it from the strings

 

I could swap it and probably end up with the exact same situation again.

 

I could ship it back to Gibson and hold my breath it comes back corrected. How long will that take?

 

I could upgrade the bridge.

 

I could machine mine with a bevel and just paint the machined edge black and be done with it. That's probably what I'll do

[glennc]

Hello larryc,

I too ran into QC problems with that specific model. Went through three and finally returned it to the store for a refund. After saying this I would really suggest that you at least let Gibson to honor their warranty and give you the quality guitar that you payed for, really. Yes it is inconvenient but they took your money and gave you a product you are not happy with. BTW the guitars I had did not have the problem you describe. Good luck on whatever you do.

glennc