Dougefresh91 Posted March 27, 2011 Author Share Posted March 27, 2011 I can't seem to find roller saddles that aren't labeled non-tremolo. These seem pretty legit, but too expensive. Saddles. Does graphite really make any kind of a difference? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RaSTuS Posted March 27, 2011 Share Posted March 27, 2011 I can't seem to find roller saddles that aren't labeled non-tremolo. These seem pretty legit, but too expensive. Saddles. Does graphite really make any kind of a difference? There have been reports they wear through too quickly, others said their's lasted for ages, like i said, 50/50 reports if they're good/bad. I'll find you a link, hold on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RaSTuS Posted March 27, 2011 Share Posted March 27, 2011 Here's a few, if you have to convert to metric, IMPERIAL x 25.4 = METRIC e.g. 1/4" is 0.25", so 0.25" x 25.4 = 6.35mm http://cgi.ebay.com.au/QUALITY-SET-6-ROLLER-BRIDGE-SADDLES-STRAT-ETC-CR-/150461903994?pt=UK_Guitar_Accessories&hash=item23083a747a http://cgi.ebay.com.au/6-Roller-Saddle-fits-Tele-Guitar-Bridge-Brushed-Chrome-/330532987729?pt=Guitar_Accessories&hash=item4cf54d2351 http://cgi.ebay.com....=item4154ee7344 Gotta get some sleep, it's 8:30am now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RaSTuS Posted March 28, 2011 Share Posted March 28, 2011 That's how I started getting into modding. I think F style guitars are ideal for learning how a guitar works, they are just so modular, you can virtually unscrew any part of it you want and mod or replace it, very, very clever design IMHO. Yeah, they are a great design. I've even become partial to the strat shape in general as a design too. The are only a few things that may get in the way of mods, depending on the guitar you have and what you want to do to it. Like pickup routing, bridge type and a few other minor things. I wanted to use a strat body I have (alder) for my S-500 (laminate), but the alder body is routed specifically for single coils, so that was a no-go. There are still sometimes a few bumps in the road, I suppose. I bought a blem sss strat copy for $99 about 6 months ago, the blem was a small ding on the bass edge of the lower bout, you can't even see it but it you run your fingers over it you can feel it, thing is when it arrived I found the neck pup was dead, I contacted the dudes for a replacement pup but they insisted I send the whole geet back and they would fix it. It was going to cost me $50 to courier it back, I got a hsh pre-wired pg with 4 wire buckers for $45 from EdenMart in Hong Kong. When I went to install it, everything fit ok except the route didn't go close enough to the bridge for the bridge bucker, I chiselled it a bit closer to the bridge, put push/pulls on the tone controls, 1 for each bucker, now it has more sounds on tap than a Virgin Megastore, all for $160 (including push/pulls), it has a rolled edge fretboard, and it's one of the most comfortable guitars I own to play. You just couldn't do something like that with any other differently constructed guitar. I know this is slightly off topic, but I'm pretty sure Doug would be interested in this stuff too. A lot of people are concerned with bolt-on necks not amounting to much as good a attachment to the body, I dispute this, a bolt-on always has an active positive pressure, glued's are only as good as the accuracy of the tennon/pocket connection, how well it was glued in and the quality of the glue. Examples of the type of sustain a bolt-on can provide include, Blackie, Jimi Hendrix, David Gilmour, Mark Knopfler, Joe Satriani, there's many more of course, but I doubt anyone could refute that fact those guitars/guys play some of the most sustainfull solos ever heard. If your really worried about it, you can always step it up, this is three of my seven Hembrys, Scott ain't shy when it comes to beefing things up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dougefresh91 Posted March 28, 2011 Author Share Posted March 28, 2011 My Fender Deluxe has a bolt-on, and it's pretty awesome because it's the kind with the adjustment screw in there. So basically you'll never have to shim the neck. You just give the bolt a turn or so in whichever direction and you're done. You may remember that from when I was trying to lower the action on that guitar back in December. I ended up coming across someone selling brand new Tusq saddles for only $30 on ebay, and they just so happened to be for an import Strat, so I jumped on that. I keep reading about how great Tusq is yadda yadda yadda. I want to see for myself. I'd also like to pickup a Tusq nut for this guitar since it's going to be in pieces again soon. My suspicion is it'll make absolutely no difference in the sound, but my mind may get placebo'ed(if you will) into thinking they're awesome. :P Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RaSTuS Posted March 29, 2011 Share Posted March 29, 2011 My Fender Deluxe has a bolt-on, and it's pretty awesome because it's the kind with the adjustment screw in there. So basically you'll never have to shim the neck. You just give the bolt a turn or so in whichever direction and you're done. You may remember that from when I was trying to lower the action on that guitar back in December. I ended up coming across someone selling brand new Tusq saddles for only $30 on ebay, and they just so happened to be for an import Strat, so I jumped on that. I keep reading about how great Tusq is yadda yadda yadda. I want to see for myself. I'd also like to pickup a Tusq nut for this guitar since it's going to be in pieces again soon. My suspicion is it'll make absolutely no difference in the sound, but my mind may get placebo'ed(if you will) into thinking they're awesome. :P I've recommended against the tusq saddles in preference to rollers at least half a dozen times Doug, I think you had your heart set on them from the start, especially given they'll cost you $30 and rollers can be found for little more than $10, so be it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobinTheHood Posted March 29, 2011 Share Posted March 29, 2011 I know this is slightly off topic, but I'm pretty sure Doug would be interested in this stuff too. A lot of people are concerned with bolt-on necks not amounting to much as good a attachment to the body, I dispute this, a bolt-on always has an active positive pressure, glued's are only as good as the accuracy of the tennon/pocket connection, how well it was glued in and the quality of the glue. Examples of the type of sustain a bolt-on can provide include, Blackie, Jimi Hendrix, David Gilmour, Mark Knopfler, Joe Satriani, there's many more of course, but I doubt anyone could refute that fact those guitars/guys play some of the most sustainfull solos ever heard. If your really worried about it, you can always step it up, this is three of my seven Hembrys, Scott ain't shy when it comes to beefing things up. Those Hembrys are awesome. Rob, I like bolt-neck guitars, personally. I like to be able to shim the necks to get my desired action for one. And I also like the fact that if the neck breaks, twists, warps, etc. I can easily replace it. I'm not really convinced that short tenon necks are better than bolt-ons for sustain, anayway. Its pretty much the same amount of contact with the only difference being screws or glue. The set neck may have a little bit more surface area, but not much. My EBMs, as well as the Epiphone EM guitars, are set up like those Hembry guitars. No neck plate and fairly wide screws with no heel on the body. And I have no problem with sustain on the basses. Of course, my neck-thru basses will hold sustain for miles, actually to the point that it becomes unnecessary. But they also have better pickups and preamps. I am partial to neck-thru basses though, because I like that almost the entire instrument is on a continuous slab of wood, except for the wings that house the electronics. But I also have to take extra special care of them to preserve the integrity of the necks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dougefresh91 Posted March 29, 2011 Author Share Posted March 29, 2011 I've recommended against the tusq saddles in preference to rollers at least half a dozen times Doug, I think you had your heart set on them from the start, especially given they'll cost you $30 and rollers can be found for little more than $10, so be it. Oh... To be honest with you I didn't realize you were trying to talk me out of Tusq. I thought you were just showing me another alternative. I guess I'm a little thick sometimes. Is there a reason you don't like Tusq, or is it you just prefer roller? I wasn't trying to discount your advice, but my mind tells me more moving parts means more possibilities for things to go wrong. I guess that's what turned me off of the roller saddles. I appreciate the help, even if I am stubborn and a bit thick-headed. =] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RaSTuS Posted March 29, 2011 Share Posted March 29, 2011 Oh... To be honest with you I didn't realize you were trying to talk me out of Tusq. I thought you were just showing me another alternative. I guess I'm a little thick sometimes. Is there a reason you don't like Tusq, or is it you just prefer roller? I wasn't trying to discount your advice, but my mind tells me more moving parts means more possibilities for things to go wrong. I guess that's what turned me off of the roller saddles. I appreciate the help, even if I am stubborn and a bit thick-headed. =] No, I love Tusq nuts, but I'm just not sure about their saddles because I had heard both good and bad reports of them, I know for certain roller saddles work so I'd be more comfortable using them if it was my choice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dougefresh91 Posted March 30, 2011 Author Share Posted March 30, 2011 Gotcha. I actually want to order a nut while I'm at it. The guitar will be apart again so why not. Just got my black pickguard screws from china today, too. Should I just get the closest size nut I can? I read the Tusq site, so I guess that's all there is to it, huh? None seem to be exact so I guess it's up to sandpaper for the rest. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RaSTuS Posted March 30, 2011 Share Posted March 30, 2011 The only problem with getting a nut for a strat style neck is some have flat bottom and some have curved bottom, make sure you know which before odering one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobinTheHood Posted March 30, 2011 Share Posted March 30, 2011 The only problem with getting a nut for a strat style neck is some have flat bottom and some have curved bottom, make sure you know which before odering one. Heh. I didnt know that. I'm going to guess and say these are flat-bottomed. Its your typical Epiphone nut at the end of the board setup. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RaSTuS Posted March 30, 2011 Share Posted March 30, 2011 Heh. I didnt know that. I'm going to guess and say these are flat-bottomed. Its your typical Epiphone nut at the end of the board setup. No probs, Rob, you know these guitars the best. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobinTheHood Posted March 30, 2011 Share Posted March 30, 2011 Well, I've never really looked at it, but its not set up like a Fender with a notch cut out of the fretboard. Its at the very end like on any other Epiphone electric guitar. So I'm thinking its probably a typical flat-bottomed nut. But its still good that you brought up that point because I didnt even know about the curved-bottom nuts. Another point is that the S-Series wasnt the high-end in Epi strats, so I doubt they put that kind of time into them. But this is some info I will definitely retain because I plan on getting an actual Fender someday (I currently have a Squier std.) and if I ever want to change the nut (most likely), I will need to know that info. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RaSTuS Posted March 30, 2011 Share Posted March 30, 2011 Well Doug has a set of callipers now, so he'll be able to measure it up precisely and look for one that matches. There you go Doug, they're paying for themselves already. LOL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dougefresh91 Posted March 30, 2011 Author Share Posted March 30, 2011 Ha! Right. They'll definitely come in handy. I think the nut is flat on the bottom, but I'm really not too sure. Do I have to remove it to find out? I'm not sure what's even holding the nut on. The truss rod cover? Glue? I don't see any screw holes. I'll have to check it out when I get home from work. I should probably just pick out some pickups while I'm at it, too. And I guess I'll be needing a new pickguard. These saddles are causing a snowball effect... My Fender has that stupid Floyd Rose bridge with the locking nut. I'll probably end up selling that guitar eventually since there's apparently no way to replace the bridge with a normal one. I'm just not a fan of how large it is. I love the guitar otherwise, but... it is what it is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobinTheHood Posted March 30, 2011 Share Posted March 30, 2011 The nut should be held on with glue. Sometimes the glue dries up and the only thing holding it down are the strings. I would buy that Fender from you if I had the money. I'm looking for a new body with a Floyd for my S-500. I'd put the neck on my Squier -- which is , in many ways, spec'd higher than most MIMs anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dougefresh91 Posted March 30, 2011 Author Share Posted March 30, 2011 When I'm ready to part with the Fender I'll let you know. It will most likely go on ebay, but I want to wait a while and be really really sure that I don't like it since I've only been playing for around six months. I don't want to regret selling it and all that. It is a made in Mexico Deluxe from, I think '02. The friend I bought it off of said it was $600 new. It's a really nice guitar compared to my other two, but I just can't get used to the bridge. More so after getting the S-300, that's so much easier to play. Are you intent on getting a Fender body? I was looking at some aftermarket bodies on ebay, but I don't know if they're any good and how compatible it would be. This one was going for cheap enough. I'm not sure how great swamp ash is, but I'd imagine it'd be better than the laminate. I'll probably wait until I replace the pickups and the other little stuff that I'm in the process of fixing. Hopefully I won't feel the need to do this once that's done, but at this rate all that will be original will be the neck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james_edward Posted March 31, 2011 Share Posted March 31, 2011 A Tusq nut for a Strat / Tele can do either flat or curved - if it's flat you leave the center leg, if it's curved you file it away... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dougefresh91 Posted March 31, 2011 Author Share Posted March 31, 2011 S-300 nut I managed to get the truss rod cover off. I don't see that center leg piece. Can anyone tell by the photo which type it would be? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RaSTuS Posted March 31, 2011 Share Posted March 31, 2011 S-300 nut I managed to get the truss rod cover off. I don't see that center leg piece. Can anyone tell by the photo which type it would be? Looks like a standard Epi nut Doug, Tusq PQL-6060-00 is the number of the XL version, do you have another Epi to compare it to for shape, lenght, height and thickness, you should be able to make these measurements without removing the nut. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james_edward Posted March 31, 2011 Share Posted March 31, 2011 S-300 nut I managed to get the truss rod cover off. I don't see that center leg piece. Can anyone tell by the photo which type it would be? Your guit uses a regular epi nut as mentioned above, not a regular Strat nut like you were talking about earlier. Double check the thickness though, the Tusq 6060 looks like it would be correct but it's 1/4" thick, yours may be different. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobinTheHood Posted March 31, 2011 Share Posted March 31, 2011 When I'm ready to part with the Fender I'll let you know. It will most likely go on ebay, but I want to wait a while and be really really sure that I don't like it since I've only been playing for around six months. I don't want to regret selling it and all that. It is a made in Mexico Deluxe from, I think '02. The friend I bought it off of said it was $600 new. It's a really nice guitar compared to my other two, but I just can't get used to the bridge. More so after getting the S-300, that's so much easier to play. Are you intent on getting a Fender body? I was looking at some aftermarket bodies on ebay, but I don't know if they're any good and how compatible it would be. This one was going for cheap enough. I'm not sure how great swamp ash is, but I'd imagine it'd be better than the laminate. I'll probably wait until I replace the pickups and the other little stuff that I'm in the process of fixing. Hopefully I won't feel the need to do this once that's done, but at this rate all that will be original will be the neck. Im not necessarily intent on a Fender body, but it MUST be Floyd Rose compatible. I just like the idea of getting a whole Fender guitar and swapping the neck and body on to my other guitars. Incidently, my Squier is a 2002 Deluxe. Its either Indo or chinese though. Dont remember which. Probably Chinese. Its got Alnico pickups, as opposed to ceramic the pickups on most MIMs, it also has a 2-point tremolo and a nice chunk of Alder with a quilt maple cap. The neck is kinda cruddy though. It was the biggest complaint about that run...which is why I want to replace it with a Fender neck. Also, nothing wrong with ash or swamp ash. Its a great wood for guitar bodies. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dougefresh91 Posted April 1, 2011 Author Share Posted April 1, 2011 I can't measure the height of the nut accurately. H: .32 or .35 L: 1.65 e to E: 1.41 Thickness: .22ish Bear with me, I'm bad with numbers... This site is confusing. The decimals switch places with the fractions on every other row of products. Not seeing any with an e to E of 1.41. This is not a fun thing to shop for. :/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobinTheHood Posted April 1, 2011 Share Posted April 1, 2011 Not sure about the rest of the dimensions, but the nut-width is 1.68" The height is kind of a preference. I usually file mine down to get the strings low to the fretboard. You dont want to go too low, though. I dont really have a set height. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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