Jump to content
Gibson Brands Forums
Sign in to follow this  
timmy

G-400 nut

Recommended Posts

I was wondering if someone could suggest a good place to buy a new nut for my G-400.I was hoping to get one that would just fit right in and has been already pre-sloted for the strings.I've been looking at some on E-bay but I'm not really sure what I'm doing or what I'm looking at,if it's a good one or not or/and if it will fit or not.I was thinking that the Tusq ones look nice.

 

Thanks

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I was wondering if someone could suggest a good place to buy a new nut for my G-400.I was hoping to get one that would just fit right in and has been already pre-sloted for the strings.I've been looking at some on E-bay but I'm not really sure what I'm doing or what I'm looking at,if it's a good one or not or/and if it will fit or not.I was thinking that the Tusq ones look nice.

 

Thanks

 

 

Hello! And welcome to the forum. I bought myself an Epi SG recently and the first thing I did was change the nut to a Graphtech TUSQ nut. It's pre-slotted but you still have to do some sanding to it to make it fit right. It's really easy though. I got this one and it was an improvement. I highly recommend it.

 

http://accessories.musiciansfriend.com/product/Graph-Tech-TUSQ-XL-14-Epiphone-Slotted-Nut?sku=712820

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I was wondering if someone could suggest a good place to buy a new nut for my G-400.I was hoping to get one that would just fit right in and has been already pre-sloted for the strings.I've been looking at some on E-bay but I'm not really sure what I'm doing or what I'm looking at,if it's a good one or not or/and if it will fit or not.I was thinking that the Tusq ones look nice.

 

Thanks

Hi Tim and welcome to the forums.

 

The best nut to get IMO would be a Tusq nut, they're impregnated with teflon to stop string binding and make pre-slotted versions and only cost around $10. You will never buy a nut that just fits straight in, every guitar, even of the same model will have variances in the width and depth of the nut groove, so pre-slotted nuts are made slightly oversize, you file a little of the face of the nut until you get a good tight fit in the nut groove, then you file a little off the bottom to get the right height. They are also usually slightly over-length and ditto, you file a little off each end to suit your particular neck width. There's some really good links on how to achieve these things in the Do-It-Yourself thread, pinned to the top of the Epi Lounge, thanks to member animalfarm who maintains it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Tim,

Welcome to the forum.

+1 on above.

Couple of comments.... Here is Graphtech's website so you can decide what you want:

http://www.graphtech.com/products.html?CategoryID=1

I put it up because there are three basic slotted nuts....The PT trem nut (Black)...The PQ tusq (White-synthetic ivory)...The PQL tusq-XL (White-synthetic ivory impregnated with teflon) a white version of the PT.

No matter which the 6060 series are for Epiphones.

 

Don't order from them as they charge too much unless you are a dealer.

 

Supersonic put up a link for MF. If you shop around there, they carry all three.

Another resource with a toll free number (in case MF is out of stock):

http://www.anthillmusic.com/storefrontprofiles/deluxeSFshop.aspx?Nuts&sfid=155275&c=159762

 

In any case they are slightly over sized and require minimal sanding to get a good fit.

If you have never done it before you might want to order a couple (just in case)

 

Willy

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I get mine off Ebay. Best prices I have found.

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/...=item588c800a7a

+1

I ordered my last 3 or 4 Tusqs from them, though I'd recommend the XL version. Whenever I do an eBay search I choose Worldwide and sort by "Price + Postage: lowest first", those guys come in cheapest on a whole range of stuff,,apart from the Tusqs, and just off the top of my head, I've bought a Steel Bar Slide for a lapsteel and a Planet Waves Chordmaster/Tuner/Metronome from them also, I second you in recommending them.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok,thanks everyone.You've been a huge help.You got me pointed in the right direction now.I actually have two G-400s.The first one I've had for over a year now and sounds and plays great.The second one I just got a few weeks ago and has an open B string buzz that I can't seem to get rid of,So that's why I've been checking into a replacement nuts.I really love these guitars.Great value for the money I think.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok,thanks everyone.You've been a huge help.You got me pointed in the right direction now.I actually have two G-400s.The first one I've had for over a year now and sounds and plays great.The second one I just got a few weeks ago and has an open B string buzz that I can't seem to get rid of,So that's why I've been checking into a replacement nuts.I really love these guitars.Great value for the money I think.

You may find a new nut won't fix your problem, to check, starting on the low E, fret at the 3rd fret, you should see a small gap between the bottom of the string and the first fret, you should also be able to ever so lightly touch the string above the first fret a see the string deflect slightly as it comes down to meet that fret, repeat this for every string. This is how the height of the string (hence the depth of the nut slot) is calibrated when fitting or making a new nut.

 

If your nut checks out ok, then you probably need to do/get a set-up, info for doing that is also in the D-I-Y thread I mentioned earlier.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I noticed they sell saddles, too. Are they any good? It seems like it would make sense to replace the nut and saddles at the same time, no?

 

How much difference does this really make?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I noticed they sell saddles, too. Are they any good? It seems like it would make sense to replace the nut and saddles at the same time, no?

 

How much difference does this really make?

Personally I'd prefer roller saddles to Tusq, I've seen several reports of them on here, some love 'em, others hate 'em, with roller saddles you know they'll work correctly.

 

BTW: I know you're looking to replace your existing saddles, a simple way to get the correct replacements, is to measure the width of your existing one's with a set of digital/dial/vernier callipers, they measure it very accurately and can be had from $10 to $200, you'll only need a basic one for measuring guitar parts, they're good for measuring post hole spacing, nut dimensions, tuner shafts, pretty much anything 0 - 150mm (0 - 6"). If you use them to measure your saddle width you will have an accurate number to go shopping with, almost all (%99.9) sellers will mention the width of the saddle in the listing .

 

EDIT: Woops, confused the two threads, appologies to the OP.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've worked with the basic plastic nut from a standard Epi G-400, the graphite nut from the Prophecy SG & the Tusq, Tusq XL, & the new White Tusq XLs on my G-400. I also have the GraphTech StringSaver saddles on my G-400 now.

 

I don't find any significant benefit from any of the above nuts. The basic plastic nut on the G-400 is fine. It's made from a solid polymer base with nut slots filed in it at proper spacings. The angles of the slots need work by someone that knows what they're doing, but it is a fine piece. I find no tonal differences among the 3. I have yet to try a bone nut but I am game to give it a whirl. When I get bored I guess.

 

If you are experimenting to improve tonal qualities the Tusq nuts won't give any discernible advantages. It'll sound the same. If you're trying to resolve a tuning problem at the nut the original plastic nut is fine, it just needs attention from a qualified expert. The saddles won't make any tonal difference either. GraphTech hypes up the tonal aspects of these products but to my ears there's no improvement.

 

Note, the Tusq nuts make a very pleasing sound when dropped on a solid surface - like a concrete floor. It isn't quite musical but you can hear a higher frequency sound when compared to the plastic nut dropped on the same surface. This would lead one to believe it would be more musical on the instrument but it doesn't seem to work out that way.....

 

 

I switched to the StringSavers saddles in an attempt to balance the sustain across the strings on my G-400. The low frequency strings dominate the sustain. The StringSavers make a little difference here, but not enough to make them worth while. I'll be going back to the steel saddles at the next string change. The original steel saddles are taller & provide a better angle between the bridge & tailpiece.

 

Good Luck

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Interesting post, I suspected the same without actually trying it for myself. I would think upgrades like those would make more of a difference on an acoustic, but that's just me guessing.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've worked with the basic plastic nut from a standard Epi G-400, the graphite nut from the Prophecy SG & the Tusq, Tusq XL, & the new White Tusq XLs on my G-400. I also have the GraphTech StringSaver saddles on my G-400 now.

 

I don't find any significant benefit from any of the above nuts. The basic plastic nut on the G-400 is fine. It's made from a solid polymer base with nut slots filed in it at proper spacings. The angles of the slots need work by someone that knows what they're doing, but it is a fine piece. I find no tonal differences among the 3. I have yet to try a bone nut but I am game to give it a whirl. When I get bored I guess.

 

If you are experimenting to improve tonal qualities the Tusq nuts won't give any discernible advantages. It'll sound the same. If you're trying to resolve a tuning problem at the nut the original plastic nut is fine, it just needs attention from a qualified expert. The saddles won't make any tonal difference either. GraphTech hypes up the tonal aspects of these products but to my ears there's no improvement.

 

Note, the Tusq nuts make a very pleasing sound when dropped on a solid surface - like a concrete floor. It isn't quite musical but you can hear a higher frequency sound when compared to the plastic nut dropped on the same surface. This would lead one to believe it would be more musical on the instrument but it doesn't seem to work out that way.....

 

 

 

I know this is just your opinion and you are entitled to it. I, however, disagree. If the majority of what you wrote was fact, then why would these companies such as Graphtech even bother making them? Furthermore, why would people want them and buy them? I have a TUSQ nut on my SG and the stock plastic one on my LP. The TUSQ one is definitely an improvement. The guitar stays in tune better (for me) than the plastic (although I am far from being an expert at filing down pieces of plastic, such as the stock nut.). I does sound just a little bit brighter (to me) and has maybe the slightest bit more sustain. Does it drastically improve the sound of your guitar? No. Is it worth 12 bucks for the minor little improvements? Yes IMO.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've worked with the basic plastic nut from a standard Epi G-400, the graphite nut from the Prophecy SG & the Tusq, Tusq XL, & the new White Tusq XLs on my G-400. I also have the GraphTech StringSaver saddles on my G-400 now.

 

I don't find any significant benefit from any of the above nuts. The basic plastic nut on the G-400 is fine. It's made from a solid polymer base with nut slots filed in it at proper spacings. The angles of the slots need work by someone that knows what they're doing, but it is a fine piece. I find no tonal differences among the 3. I have yet to try a bone nut but I am game to give it a whirl. When I get bored I guess.

 

If you are experimenting to improve tonal qualities the Tusq nuts won't give any discernible advantages. It'll sound the same. If you're trying to resolve a tuning problem at the nut the original plastic nut is fine, it just needs attention from a qualified expert. The saddles won't make any tonal difference either. GraphTech hypes up the tonal aspects of these products but to my ears there's no improvement.

 

Note, the Tusq nuts make a very pleasing sound when dropped on a solid surface - like a concrete floor. It isn't quite musical but you can hear a higher frequency sound when compared to the plastic nut dropped on the same surface. This would lead one to believe it would be more musical on the instrument but it doesn't seem to work out that way.....

 

I also must humbly disagree with you.

I can tell a difference in tone/sound when replacing the plastic nuts with TUSQ nuts.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I also must humbly disagree with you.

I can tell a difference in tone/sound when replacing the plastic nuts with TUSQ nuts.

 

But wouldn't that only apply to open strings?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

But wouldn't that only apply to open strings?

 

No, it would not only apply to open strings.

It would apply when you are playing with a slide for every string.

And I could probably thing of another way, but I'm at lunch right now and need to go. :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

But wouldn't that only apply to open strings?

 

Back in the 60's brass nuts became quite popular. (got to kid a guy with brass nuts)

Anyway, I have occasion to change one out from time to time....usually to bone.

IMO, There is a difference in the overall sound of the guitar depending on the nut material....All be it small.

Again, IMO, the gauge and brand of strings you use probably makes as big or bigger of a difference.

 

If you are going through the trouble to put a new nut on a guitar do a good job and use good material.

More often then not I see guitars with nuts set up by so called pros that are no where near correct.

People get a improper nut job and then do not understand why they tune their B string to B. (just an example)

Then they play the D at the third fret and are out by 8 or 10 c's.....Bad job.

 

Maybe we should start another thread and have a picture contest...

Show us your NUTS!

 

 

Willy

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I ordered(and recieved)two of the Tusq xl nuts off from Ebay.It only cost me $15.00.I may have the guitar looked at by a pro before I try to install one of the nuts ,to see if he can't get rid of the open string buzz first.If he can't maybe I'll just give him a nut to install proper for me.I'm just trying to get rid of the string buzz,so I'm not really doing it to try and achive a better tone,but if I put one in and the guitar sounds better than... great.I'm also in the process of changing all the electronics in it,pickups,pots,caps ect.So even with a new nut,I doubt I'd notice a tonal difference just from that.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just thought I'd let everyone know how it turned out.I did up replacing the nut and I also put a Tonepros bridge on.I adjusted the truss rod and no more buzzing now,good as new.I tried to adjust the truss rod before installing the new nut with no luck,then took the guitar to a local tech and he suggested a new nut also.I wanted to replace it myself just to try and do it,see if I could do it on my own, and it worked out great.Playing it unplugged I can tell a noticeable tone difference in it over the way it was.It seems brighter and snappier now,kinda more Tele like.I replaced the pickups and rest of the electronics also,so I wouldn't be able to give an honest opinion on a plugged in test.

 

Thanks for all help everyone.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just thought I'd let everyone know how it turned out.I did up replacing the nut and I also put a Tonepros bridge on.I adjusted the truss rod and no more buzzing now,good as new.I tried to adjust the truss rod before installing the new nut with no luck,then took the guitar to a local tech and he suggested a new nut also.I wanted to replace it myself just to try and do it,see if I could do it on my own, and it worked out great.Playing it unplugged I can tell a noticeable tone difference in it over the way it was.It seems brighter and snappier now,kinda more Tele like.I replaced the pickups and rest of the electronics also,so I wouldn't be able to give an honest opinion on a plugged in test.

Glad to hear it all worked out so well for you Tim, don't be a stranger.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just thought I'd let everyone know how it turned out.I did up replacing the nut and I also put a Tonepros bridge on.I adjusted the truss rod and no more buzzing now,good as new.I tried to adjust the truss rod before installing the new nut with no luck,then took the guitar to a local tech and he suggested a new nut also.I wanted to replace it myself just to try and do it,see if I could do it on my own, and it worked out great.Playing it unplugged I can tell a noticeable tone difference in it over the way it was.It seems brighter and snappier now,kinda more Tele like.I replaced the pickups and rest of the electronics also,so I wouldn't be able to give an honest opinion on a plugged in test.

 

Thanks for all help everyone.

[thumbup][biggrin]

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
Sign in to follow this  

×
×
  • Create New...