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50s Wiring Problem...


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When I bought my 2003 LPC I noticed several things.


1st, the neck pup was on backwards. When I removed it, it looked like the cover had been resoldered as well. I've read that some people move the internal magnet 180 deg and mount the pup backwards. I'm assuming this is the case here. I turned the pup back rightside up.


2nd, according to some diagrams the wiring looks like "Modified Standard" wiring: http://www.dominocs.com/Gibson/WiringLibrary/wiringBlackRose.jpg, while others say it is stock.


When I changed the neck pup to 50s style I lost a lot of high end freqs making it sound dark and muddy. It was awful so I switched it back. However, when I did I lost the tone control completely. It's now on 10 all the time.


I may have overheated it trying to get the solder to melt. It just woudn't. I can get 493k ohm readings from the two end terminals but nothing from one end and center term. I figure it's toast.


Thanks for the help,


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I was under the impression that If you overheat a pot it gets a dead spot. Didn't know you could kill it completely, but that might explain why the one tone on my epi strat copy doesn't work. I had it turned to zero when I did my soldering. Idk...

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Welcome to the forum...and Happy Easter!


Sorry to hear of your setbacks.

If the guitar is used anything is possible. As long as it plays well most anything else can be resolved.


1.No tellin' what was done to the pickup. If it were mine and was an Epi neck pickup I'd be looking to replace it with a GFS anyway.


2.Looked at the "Blackrose" link. Yup, that's what that diagram is. The other link didn't work for me.

Again without an actual pic of your control cavity there is no telling what the last guy did.

Even with pics, it might not be possible to identify the pots. If they have been changed out to all audio taper then there could be a problem trying to do 50s wiring. For best results I have found it better to use linear volumes on 50s.


As to possibility of a burned pot....completely possible. Removing it from the circuit and then testing it through it's range of motion would be the only way I would test it.

If I were going through that much trouble I would just replace the pot and cap.

I would temp it in using small alligator clips and/or electrical tape. Once I was convinced it was not a wiring problem I would make the connections permanent.



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