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Shellack on LP Pecial?


Lennart

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Yikes.

 

Is it a Gibby or an EPI?

 

Hopefully, it ain't ruined. About all I can offer is that on some older Gibby's, the finish can hold a lot of oxygen and get foggy if you use the wrong polish or cleaner.

 

Gibby's are nitro laquer (oil based) and Epi's are polyurethane.

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He meant

'not" totaled...

 

Word of extreme caution-TEST A SMALL AREA FIRST! really small, and let it dry well before doing the whole thing. Thats how you got this problem in the first place!

 

It can easily get from bad to worst in a hurry if you keep trying one thing after another. Don't loose hope, and don't panic.

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It´s a Gibson. I didn´t think this could be a problem. I´ve cleaned guitars for years with alcohol. I didn´t notice what happened first. After a while I changed the angle to the light and... [scared] I didn´t know of this problem with nitro laquer and alcohol. Somebody suggested to polish it with fine polishing paste. Is that a good idea?

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It´s a Gibson. I didn´t think this could be a problem. I´ve cleaned guitars for years with alcohol. I didn´t notice what happened first. After a while I changed the angle to the light and... [scared] I didn´t know of this problem with nitro laquer and alcohol. Somebody suggested to polish it with fine polishing paste. Is that a good idea?

Actually, alcohol is an excellent cleaner on a lot of finishes, like enamels. LOL..BUT NOT ALL!.

 

Gibson finishes are actually quite porous, so they can soak up a lot of things, and the "hazing" you are seeing could be that.

 

I would try the naphtha, I haven't ever used it, but I say it because a lot of people say it works and is safe, and so does Gibson. Also, lemon oil works great for problem cloudy finishes, and I have used it a lot.

 

I would follow anything up with the Gibson polish. I have used it, and it works on all guitars. Some older Gibsons will cloud up using other polishes, even Martin polish.

 

Again though, can't stress enough to do only a SMALL area and let it dry first, because when something DOESN'T work (especially when you already have a problem) it can get outta control and cause you real problems.

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.

Well alright. Glad to read you recovered your finish.

 

 

Here's another tip on nitro finishes. As you already have found, nitro is very reactive - especially with rubber, some foams, soft plastic, dyes (leach into the finish and can stain the color under the nitro), some cleaning solvents. Guitar stands can cause problems with rubber or foam nitro reactions. So if you buy a stand, make sure it is nitro safe before setting your guitar on it. You can always cover the foam/rubber parts with undyed (white) cotton cloth.

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.

Well alright. Glad to read you recovered your finish.

 

 

Here's another tip on nitro finishes. As you already have found, nitro is very reactive - especially with rubber, some foams, soft plastic, dyes (leach into the finish and can stain the color under the nitro), some cleaning solvents. Guitar stands can cause problems with rubber or foam nitro reactions. So if you buy a stand, make sure it is nitro safe before setting your guitar on it. You can always cover the foam/rubber parts with undyed (white) cotton cloth.

Good tips as always from BK. I will go further to add that even if a stand claims to be nitro safe I would still wrap contact points with undyed cotton, seen too many people upset that the "nitro safe" products still reacted with the finish.

 

 

Never tried using lighter fluid but I'll give it a shot on my Studio, once it comes back from the Luthier who's had it for over a week, just to clean the fretboard and replace the machine heads.

Naptha works great, I use it to clean guitars frequently (even fretboards, be sure to use something like fret doctor after as naptha dries a board quickly).

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