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To air or not to air? That is my question


Aster1

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Posted

Hi Guys,

 

After reading about enough to be dangerous, I wanted to hear what others have come to believe on the proper care of a new Nitro finished guitar. In the past it hasn't been an issue for me as I bought them from a dealer that had them hanging on the rack for months mostly. I now have 6 nitro guitars that arrived to my home w/o ever being out of the shipping box and in their guitar cases. I hear about nitro needing to "gas out" and cure. Is that best to do in the case or in free air? [confused]

 

I just discovered my new 60th Aniv. Tele that seemed like the fur of a newer Vintage tweed G&S case, was making marks on the finish (maybe some reaction?) and that's what prompted my thought on the issue again.

 

My 3 new Gibson acoustics have almost overwhelming lacquer fumes when I open their cases as well. So far, no fur/mark issues. Again, all these guitars have been made, arrive to me (maybe withing a month of date on QC cards), and reside in there cases.

 

What say ye and is there science behind it or just cogitation?

 

Many Thanks!!!

 

Aster

Posted

21 months old, the fretboard of my 45 still produces layers of black cake after a period. It has spent its short life outside the case, and this summer - opposed to 2010 - it didn't get down right greasy when played during the warm damp days. Then again the summer wasn't as hot as last year. The H-bird gets a little sticky sometimes, but isn't cakey at all. I've never experienced this with any other guitar and wonder how long it'll go on. Don't see it as a problem really, just wipe it off when necessary. Maybe it adds to the muddy identity of the Standard. The black nut, the dark horn pins, the burst, the tone.

Don't know if there's other things to be aware of regarding that lacquer. Read here that it evaporates from the body as well, which eventually makes the top freer.

 

You have 6 nitro-guitars, 3 new Gibsons. Why not tell a little about them. Sounds like one big bag of sweet Board-candy.

 

 

 

 

Posted

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No need to consult a scientist, the stars or tarot cards. Should cure just fine in the case - from experience.

 

If you're new to nitro, I'm more concerned about your knowledge of the reactivity of nitro and if you are aware of what environments, liquids and materials to avoid in order to protect the finish.

 

And I'm with Em7 - how about more info and some pics? . B)

Posted

21 months old, the fretboard of my 45 still produces layers of black cake after a period.

 

What exactly do you mean by "produces layers of black cake"? That's a new one to me, and it doesn't sound pretty.

Posted

Thanks for the feedback. Yes, I have had nitro guitars since the mid 70's and many of them still look great. But, like I was saying, all of them had spent time hanging on a dealers wall for months (4-6 months anyhow) and not stored in a case from the "new" time. The ones that I'm curious about would be 2 made in May of this year and 1 Dec of 2010. All Gibson, new shipped to me with no "hanging time" in the air at dealers. Gibson, dealer, me in a bing, bang, boom shipping process. I've just kept them in the cases between playing.

 

Will get some photo's put together on the gits. 2 are Fenders (Strat & Tele) 1 a Ric, so I didn't want to bore people with those on the Gibson site. [rolleyes]

 

I'm very careful about the finishes contacting things like rubber, vinyl etc. and always wipe down the guitars after playing with a Meguiar's Micro-Fiber polishing cloth (stings with a GHS string cloth. Have Ric's too so I take great care of more touchy finishes. Just didn't know about "gassing out" time needed and if in a case or free air best.

 

Thanks

 

Aster

Posted

What exactly do you mean by "produces layers of black cake"? That's a new one to me, and it doesn't sound pretty.

Should have said neck instead of fretboard. I'm not a big hand-sweater when playing, but still the 45 neck seemed to have a smaller dose of mayonnaise smeared on it last summer. It typically appeared after 15 minutes of action - came sneaking from behind as I wasn't prepared for the phenomenon, and made me wonder.

Then it dawned on me it could be new nitro comin' off. This summer it happened again, but not as much. The result is like a black paste concentrated in patterns around the most used zones. As said it happens on the 2010 J-45 and that guitar only.

I'm the type of player who reaches out for guitars when I feel like it. Sometimes to check a little idea, run through a chord sequence while watching telly, and sometimes for deeper rehearsals or different jams, performances whatever. I can't see myself wipe the neck every time I leave the instrument for a couple of hours. Therefor the cake-layer builds up, , , until I once in a while remove it with kitchen alcohol of course.

 

.

 

 

Posted

Should have said neck instead of fretboard. I'm not a big hand-sweater when playing, but still the 45 neck seemed to have a smaller dose of mayonnaise smeared on it last summer. It typically appeared after 15 minutes of action - came sneaking from behind as I wasn't prepared for the phenomenon, and made me wonder.

Then it dawned on me it could be new nitro comin' off. This summer it happened again, but not as much. The result is like a black paste concentrated in patterns around the most used zones. As said it happens on the 2010 J-45 and that guitar only.

I'm the type of player who reaches out for guitars when I feel like it. Sometimes to check a little idea, run through a chord sequence while watching telly, and sometimes for deeper rehearsals or different jams, performances whatever. I can't see myself wipe the neck every time I leave the instrument for a couple of hours. Therefor the cake-layer builds up, , , until I once in a while remove it with kitchen alcohol of course.

 

.

I think I might use naptha rather than alcohol. I have a bit of the same stickiness problem with the neck on my 2009 Nashville '59 ES 335, but a wipe with Virtuouso takes it right off. Never had any real build-up, however.

 

Maybe you should wash your hands before you play. It's amazing the junk that builds up on your hands. [biggrin]

Posted

I think I might use naptha rather than alcohol. I have a bit of the same stickiness problem with the neck on my 2009 Nashville '59 ES 335, but a wipe with Virtuouso takes it right off. Never had any real build-up, however.

 

Maybe you should wash your hands before you play. It's amazing the junk that builds up on your hands. [biggrin]

I'm sure naphtha is better, but the 'sprit' I use isn't that strong.

Washing hands whenever I reach for a guitar and wiping with naphtha every time I put it down would turn me into a masterclass weirdo.

I'm satisfied on the level just below that. . .

 

(Am I right - is there a comical ring to the word naphtha. . . ? )

Posted

I'm sure naptha is better, but the 'sprit' I use isn't that strong.

Washing hands whenever I reach for a guitar and wiping with naptha every time I put it down would turn me into a masterclass weirdo.

I'm satisfied on the level just below that. . .

 

(Am I right - is there a comical ring to the word naptha. . . ? )

 

I've been snorting curing nitro for so many years that it's gone to my head.

Posted

Mine has the same build up on the back of the neck. Mine also is a 2010 j45. Hmmmm. And I wash my hands every time before I play. I do think it's the nitro.

Posted

Mine has the same build up on the back of the neck. Mine also is a 2010 j45. Hmmmm. And I wash my hands every time before I play. I do think it's the nitro.

I'm pretty sure it's the reaction between your hands and semi-cured nitro, as I do get a bit of it on my newish ES 335.

Posted

Leaving anything finished with lacquer out when the temp is around 72 with 45% humidity will help it to cure quicker. Lacquer is a solvent based finish and the solvents need time to evaporate. It is this evaporation that leads to that magical moment of a guitar's tone "opening up". As far as the funk that builds up on the neck of a new guitar; that is from your hands rubbing out the still uncured lacquer. This is a very important time to wipe things down in order to not get permanent dull spots in the finish. If the weather is cold and humid keep it in the case.

Posted

....except for one thing: nitrocellulose lacquer never cures.

 

That depends on what you mean by "cure". At some point, the volatile components of the lacquer are pretty much fully flashed-off. It is true the nitro never "cures" into an inert, stable solid, and it remains highly-flammable forever, but not as volatile as it is is when new. Just remember that in its manufacturing process it is a second cousin to trinitrotoluene, otherwise known as TNT.

Posted

Seems to be consensus about the damp/sweaty left hand in chemical process with the evaporating nitro is the factor behind the grease or sticky feel.

 

Just 1 Q. = How come my H-bird goes free. It is from '08 opposed to the 2010 J-45, but hasn't been played much before I got it this spring. There can be a vague trace of stickiness after circa 20 minutes, still nothing like the good slope.

 

Posted

Glad to see this topic up as I was ready to post with some questions about the finish. Maybe some of you would be kind enough to help as I definitely do not know as much about the finish of my guitar as some of you on the board are. I have a 2011 SWD Standard. I've read that small scratches on Nitro are "repairable". I have slight scratch marks on the back of the guitar. Question is - Is it a DIY fix? What is the process used in "fixing" these? Also, I know I may have to live with it, but I played the guitar with a shirt that had a rubberized logo and, sure enough, there are areas on the guitar that have dull, mottled looking spots. Any thoughts? Thanks!

Posted

Also, I know I may have to live with it, but I played the guitar with a shirt that had a rubberized logo and, sure enough, there are areas on the guitar that have dull, mottled looking spots. Any thoughts? Thanks!

Let them be – they are a part of your history with the guitar. Evidence you 2 were doin' something real together.

More worth than what might be cut in market value, if you ask me.

Posted

Glad to see this topic up as I was ready to post with some questions about the finish. Maybe some of you would be kind enough to help as I definitely do not know as much about the finish of my guitar as some of you on the board are. I have a 2011 SWD Standard. I've read that small scratches on Nitro are "repairable". I have slight scratch marks on the back of the guitar. Question is - Is it a DIY fix? What is the process used in "fixing" these? Also, I know I may have to live with it, but I played the guitar with a shirt that had a rubberized logo and, sure enough, there are areas on the guitar that have dull, mottled looking spots. Any thoughts? Thanks!

 

I would refrain from trying to fix very small scratches until the finish has more fully cured. Nitro finishes are very thin, and you can cut through the finish very easily with the mild abrasive polishes usually used for scratch removal. As far as the "dull, mottled" areas of the surface go, I would consider using Virtuoso Cleaner on a very limited basis, since this is such a new finish.

 

Generally speaking, it probably isn't good to use anything other than a clean, damp 100% cotton rag on a newer nitro finish like this.

 

It's a musical instrument, not a museum piece. Don't abuse it, but if I worried about every tiny pick scratch, I wouldn't play any of my guitars very much.

Posted

It's a musical instrument, not a museum piece. Don't abuse it, but if I worried about every tiny pick scratch, I wouldn't play any of my guitars very much.

By the way Nick – I look forward to hear about your psychological response to the first ding, scratch or scar on the refurbished '48 45.

 

Guess I'm setting up a thread on the topic. . . Look out !

Posted

By the way Nick – I look forward to hear about your psychological response to the first ding, scratch or scar on the refurbished '48 45.

 

Guess I'm setting up a thread on the topic. . . Look out !

I'm embarrassed to say that I've already done it, but don't expect me to admit it in public. I'm a bit of a Clumsy Clyde at the best of times. I was surprisingly philosophical about it, since it (fortunately) doesn't really show. Maybe I'm finally coming to grips with what is really important after almost 65 years on this earth.

 

Let's just say that I live in Florida, we all have ceiling fans, and I sometimes forget that fact.

 

What is scarier is all the near misses during my mis-spent youth, when all-night sessions involving guitars, alcohol, and other mind-altering substances compromised good judgment and coordination.

Posted

I would refrain from trying to fix very small scratches until the finish has more fully cured. Nitro finihses are very thin, and you can cut through the finish very easily with the mild abrasive polishes usually used for scratch removal. As far as the "dull, mottled" areas of the surface go, I would consider using Virtuoso Cleaner on a very limited basis, since this is such a new finish.

 

Generally speaking, it probably isn't good to use anything other than a clean, damp 100% cotton rag on a newer nitro finish like this.

 

It's a musical instrument, not a museum piece. Don't abuse it, but if I worried about every tiny pick scratch, I wouldn't play any of my guitars very much.

 

Thanks for taking the time. Excellent reply!

Posted

Let them be – they are a part of your history with the guitar. Evidence you 2 were doin' something real together.

More worth than what might be cut in market value, if you ask me.

 

You're right. Thanks for keepin' it real:)

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