onewilyfool Posted October 13, 2008 Share Posted October 13, 2008 Stumbled on these on you tube....Here are some good videos for set up.(in no particular order) 1. Setting up truss rod 2. Nut issues 3.Neck set angle issues 4. Adjust neck angle 5. Check string height 6. Intonation Problems 7. Adjust for buzz 8. Crowning frets 9. Check saddle height 10. file saddle height 11. Sanding and finishing Frets http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cK1Nuf1oV-E&feature=related 12.Overview http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sIapo0bs0i0&feature=related 13. Filing the nut http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XkzbJrPZHbM&feature=related 14. Nut slotting http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E97FOp6U7LQ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guitarstrummer Posted October 13, 2008 Share Posted October 13, 2008 Good information. Any idea who that guy is? I haven't watched them all yet, but it should probably be noted that Gibson's truss rod adjustment in on the headstock and not through the sound hole, just in case someone's new to this and didn't know. I'd hate to have them waste a lot of time looking through the sound hole for it. But then again, if they don't know where it's at, they probably shouldn't be adjusting it themselves anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gretchen55 Posted October 13, 2008 Share Posted October 13, 2008 I just got my first new Gibson- an LG-2 Acoustic Icon- and I want to adjust the truss rod. I got as far as getting the little cover plate off, but now I'm stumped as to what size/type of wrench I need to turn the bolt, and which way do I turn it??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thermionik Posted October 13, 2008 Share Posted October 13, 2008 . . Why do you think you need to adjust the truss-rod? . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RogueBrit Posted October 13, 2008 Share Posted October 13, 2008 Its interesting stuff, Thanks. This is a commendable attempt to demonstrate some of the techniques, but I am uneasy about the total effect. The videos do not give a clear idea of the order that should be followed in carrying out setup, or the ways in which these adjustments are interrelated. While I am happy to believe this guy knows what he is doing, I do not think there is enough information, or the necessary clarity, to enable an inexperienced person to understand all the nuances, or to do a good job. Some of the information is glossed over, and there is some muddled thinking IMO. Before attempting any of these things, you need to understand cause and effect in more detail. For instance, no distinction is made between what he describes as 'warp' and normal neck relief. Some of the techniques he talks about are fairly radical - they need a good understanding of guitar geometry, and this is lacking IMO: neck sets and resets certainly come into this category. This contains some good 'grist to the mill' but needs to be supplemented by reading everything possible on the subject - such as Dan Erlewhines guitar repair book, and those by Don Teeter, Hideo Kamimoto and Irving Sloane. Reading the wonderful authoritative resources on Frank Ford's FRETS site and Bryan Kimsey's site is essential - these guys are experts, sharing hard won information. The 'man in the street' can achieve much, and I subscribe to the view that players should take the trouble to learn as much as possible. But I do not believe that these videos give the background necessary to think about applying files and such to valuable instruments. In summary - there's some good information, but an overall lack of method, clarity and detail. I confess to very mixed feelings.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guitarstrummer Posted October 13, 2008 Share Posted October 13, 2008 I just got my first new Gibson- an LG-2 Acoustic Icon- and I want to adjust the truss rod. I got as far as getting the little cover plate off' date=' but now I'm stumped as to what size/type of wrench I need to turn the bolt, and which way do I turn it???[/quote'] The size should be 5/16" and a nut driver works the best. Only turn it about 1/4 turn at a time, let it settle in a day or so before turning it further. As you're looking down the neck from the top of the headstock, turn it to the right to lessen the relief in the neck (take some of the bow out-flatten the neck more). Turn it to the left to increase the relief (put more of a bow in the neck). If you've never done this before, you might want to take it to someone and have them do it for you. Also, make sure you need to adjust it. Don't adjust it just for the sake of adjusting it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gretchen55 Posted October 13, 2008 Share Posted October 13, 2008 Thanks Mike for your reply- I've done lots of adjustments on other "lesser" guitars with no problems, but they all had the soundhole adjustments. Finding a good tech in my neck of the woods is a problem but I'll ask around. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onewilyfool Posted October 13, 2008 Author Share Posted October 13, 2008 I think the direction you turn the adjustment rod is the opposite for the soundhole location and the neck location....lol....good luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
albertjohn Posted October 14, 2008 Share Posted October 14, 2008 Thanks for the links OWF. Appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sfden1 Posted October 14, 2008 Share Posted October 14, 2008 Its interesting stuff' date=' Thanks. This is a commendable attempt to demonstrate some of the techniques, but I am uneasy about the total effect. The videos do not give a clear idea of the order that should be followed in carrying out setup, or the ways in which these adjustments are interrelated. While I am happy to believe this guy knows what he is doing, I do not think there is enough information, or the necessary clarity, to enable an inexperienced person to understand all the nuances, or to do a good job. Some of the information is glossed over, and there is some muddled thinking IMO. Before attempting any of these things, you need to understand cause and effect in more detail. For instance, no distinction is made between what he describes as 'warp' and normal neck relief. Some of the techniques he talks about are fairly radical - they need a good understanding of guitar geometry, and this is lacking IMO: neck sets and resets certainly come into this category. This contains some good 'grist to the mill' but needs to be supplemented by reading everything possible on the subject - such as Dan Erlewhines guitar repair book, and those by Don Teeter, Hideo Kamimoto and Irving Sloane. Reading the wonderful authoritative resources on Frank Ford's FRETS site and Bryan Kimsey's site is essential - these guys are experts, sharing hard won information. The 'man in the street' can achieve much, and I subscribe to the view that players should take the trouble to learn as much as possible. But I do not believe that these videos give the background necessary to think about applying files and such to valuable instruments. In summary - there's some good information, but an overall lack of method, clarity and detail. I confess to very mixed feelings.. [/quote'] This is an excellent post, and one I totally agree with. I also think its a good idea to learn as much as possible. The recommendations of frets.com and Bryan Kimsey's site are excellent. I'd also recommend that people check out two threads by a fellow named Freeman Keller on the HCAF, which can be found here http://www.thekrashsite.com/hcag/ under Tech Stuff. Clear, concise, full of good, easy to understand information. Click on Is My Guitar Sick, and How Do I Fix My Sick Guitar. These tutorials, along with the sites that Rogue Brit posted, will provide you with a wealth of good information. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nodehopper Posted October 14, 2008 Share Posted October 14, 2008 Thanks Mike for your reply- I've done lots of adjustments on other "lesser" guitars with no problems' date='[/quote'] Yah ....I have been much more adventurous on my Seagull and a couple other low cost guitars. Good learning experience and then when it comes to trying out my "Skillz" on my Gibby I feel much more confident because I have done it before. Another good reason / justification to buy a decent beater guitar. :-) Thanks for the links O' Wily One !! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johnt Posted October 18, 2008 Share Posted October 18, 2008 Wily as ever thanks for the contribution. Have to admit though that this is an area which scares me rigid! I watch people sighting the neck, they hand me the guitar to see and I see nothing! Possibly because I am too stupid or too proud to disclose that fact and have them explain! RogueBrit makes a salient point about the order of things whoich worries me even further. We have all found out from other experiences that a wrong adjustment here results in a disaster somewhere else. I note from Mike's post on the Homecoming that there's a setup session so hopefully I can pick some tips up there. In the meantime my guitars travel 100 miles to be checked, which reminds me, I need to doi as I upped the strings on them. I don't know if those videos help others but I won't follow them. I got into so much trouble with the "Joy of sex" DVD! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sfden1 Posted October 18, 2008 Share Posted October 18, 2008 One of the things about the Freeman Keller link I posted is that he emphasizes the importance of taking notes about everything that's involved even before you ever do anything so that you have a basis to start from. In other words, check the action at the 12th fret, the height of the strings at the nut, the amount of relief. and what gauge strings are on it. Sounds like a big duh, but knowing what your current set-up is is a big step to knowing what's working and what's not. And of course, he walks you through the process of taking these measurements. Even if you never do anything with your set up yourself, you will at least be able to have a better informed conversation with your tech. I encourage everyone to check out Freeman's threads. That, in conjunction with the Bryan Kimsey and Frets.com sites should tell you everything you need to know. And don't be intimidated. It's not rocket science. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hoss Posted October 18, 2008 Share Posted October 18, 2008 Living in Seattle, I have the luxury of having a number of fabulous guitar techs/repairperson/luthiers available. I'm in the habit of not even contemplating set up on my guitars. One of the best lives about 8 minutes from my house- I just run a guitar down and he will tweak it for me- no charge. (of course, he gets first dibs on all the other real work that needs to be done..) The other day I stopped by with a vintage J45 because I'm having trouble with string buzzing. while I was there he told me about several collectors guitars that he' just worked on--previous owners were Jimi Hendrix and Bob Dylan. And then I got to look at a new harp guitar (classical) that Muriel Anderson had sent him for adjustments. What a gorgeous instrument!! Here's a little 'look' at it: Since I'm all thumbs when it comes to tools, I'm not certain I can ever move... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Lee Walker Posted October 18, 2008 Share Posted October 18, 2008 Yeah, Hoss, I agree, having easy access to a qualified tech you can trust is invaluable. I have used several over the years, wherever the road takes me, but have come to the decision (after a couple of negative experiences) that it is worth the wait for me to take it to my favorite tech back home in Jax. Usually a one-day turnaround, and I am always satisfied with his work. He works with the guys in Skynyrd, 38 Special, Mofro and quite a few other names. Oh, wait, I suppose this could be comprehended as shameless promotion on my part, so I won't mention his name and post his information. But, hey, he is Gibson authorized and he has a good touch with acoustics as well. Gibson Acoustic being the key word here for those who critically challenged. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theDeuce Posted October 19, 2008 Share Posted October 19, 2008 I think the direction you turn the adjustment rod is the opposite for the soundhole location and the neck location....lol....good luck Actually it's not. Turn either type the same way for the same effect: lefty loosey' date=' righty tighty. Loosen for more relief, tighten for less relief. I cannot recommend highly enough the material available in The Acoustic Guitar Owner's Manual at WWW.FRETS.COM for plain language explanations of luthier info and knowledge. I do not know Frank Ford, but he is offering a wealth of his knowledge and experience to share with everyone, and I am grateful to him. Quoting his Truss Rod Adjustment page, "The adjusting nut of the truss rod may be placed at either end of the neck, so it may be accessible at the peghead (Gibson, Taylor) or through the interior of the guitar (Martin, Collings, Santa Cruz). Either way, the action is identical, and the functionality is the same." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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