brums Posted October 31, 2011 Posted October 31, 2011 Hi, well I still indecided where to drill my baby....... needed advices...... can you help me ?
Jinder Posted October 31, 2011 Posted October 31, 2011 I always go for heel cap. Wherever you put it, it's a compromise, but I prefer the easier high-fret access afforded by the heel cap strap button placement, and am happy to compromise a bit of balance to get it. I use a Schaller straplock at the neck end of the strap where it attaches to the heel cap-mounted strap button, just for safety's sake...no problems for me in 13yrs of using this method.
brums Posted October 31, 2011 Author Posted October 31, 2011 I always go for heel cap. Wherever you put it, it's a compromise, but I prefer the easier high-fret access afforded by the heel cap strap button placement, and am happy to compromise a bit of balance to get it. I use a Schaller straplock at the neck end of the strap where it attaches to the heel cap-mounted strap button, just for safety's sake...no problems for me in 13yrs of using this method. Jinder, thanks for you for fast answer...... May I receive some photos ?
ParlourMan Posted October 31, 2011 Posted October 31, 2011 Always a trade-off here, I'd be interested in others opinions as well, myself I am always more tempted by the heel-cap than other solutions, I prefer to have the upper neck access unhindered.
brums Posted October 31, 2011 Author Posted October 31, 2011 Always a trade-off here, I'd be interested in others opinions as well, myself I am always more tempted by the heel-cap than other solutions, I prefer to have the upper neck access unhindered. I would receive some photo,... I'm sorry..... for my english language......
brums Posted October 31, 2011 Author Posted October 31, 2011 I decided........ install strap button on heel cap..... but I would see some photos...... J45 in that position has white binding....... may I drill above or near the binding ??? thanks everybody....
modoc_333 Posted October 31, 2011 Posted October 31, 2011 this link shows where you really want it.... less risk of splitting wood, out of the way, and looks good. it's where Taylor and many other American makers install the strap button. http://home.comcast.net/~nicholas.caruso/images/Music_Room/strapbutton.JPG
BigKahune Posted October 31, 2011 Posted October 31, 2011 . Drathbun has posted this diagram before, but I can't find the thread. I think Jinder is talking about position #2 (sorry if that's wrong Jinder).
Jinder Posted October 31, 2011 Posted October 31, 2011 . Drathbun has posted this diagram before, but I can't find the thread. I think Jinder is talking about position #2 (sorry if that's wrong Jinder). BigKahune, yep that's exactly where I meant! Thanks for posting the pic. The position Modoc_333 recommended is popular and will give you good hands-free on-strap balance, but I find it frustratingly obstructive to upper fret access. If you're never likely to stray up to the 'dusty end' beyond the 12th fret, that position is perfect. However, when I'm doing session work I never know what will be required of me, and if I have to play some noodlesome stuff up beyond the 12th, I find the heelside-mounted strap button gets in the way somewhat. I was given an Epiphone EJ200 recently (GREAT guitar, one of the recent ones with a solid top-sounds absolutely great and plays like butter) which has the side-mounted button and it does hang beautifully on the strap, but the button gets in the way. If the button is installed by a pro (pilot hole drilled first, proper size screw used) you should have no problems with wood splitting. If you do, it's the pro's fault and he/she should compensate you! I've had a good 12+ guits have the heelcap button installation and have had no splits at all. I'm sure it's happened (not disputing your point, Modoc) but it's never happened to me. My advice would be to try to find two guitars that have the buttons in different locations, hang them from a strap and see how they wear, and figure out which suits you better from there.
brums Posted October 31, 2011 Author Posted October 31, 2011 this link shows where you really want it.... less risk of splitting wood, out of the way, and looks good. it's where Taylor and many other American makers install the strap button. http://home.comcast.net/~nicholas.caruso/images/Music_Room/strapbutton.JPG I think J45 in that area has a thinner neck profile and installing strap button there can do problems .... +1 for heel cap for me ... photos please... thanks
TommyK Posted November 1, 2011 Posted November 1, 2011 My favorites are 3 and 4. 3 being my ultimate favorite, as long as you there is a substantial hunk of wood behind it. If there isn't a substantial hunk of wood behind this location, one can be added at little cost and little loss in aesthetic value. Using 3 makes for perfect balance, it won't tip forward as with the back applied buttons; 1 and 2. 4 is fairly well balanced. Puting a screw into the heel risks splitting it. Drill an appropriate sized pilot hole before installing the screw. If you don't know what an appropriately sized pilot hole is, do not attempt this yourself. 4 only looks good and works well if you have a flat heel like this, which is rare. 5 is next best. Not as well balanced, and, again you risk splitting the heel for the aforementioned reasons. Also, this area tends to be rounded. Strap buttons are made to be affixed to flat surfaces like positions 3, 2, 1, the butt end, and 4 in this particular style of heel only. Many guitar manufacturers are installing them at position 5 at the factory. In the above pic I think the button is too low and too near the joint. I'd move it about half way towards the fret board. To be structurally sound, one should mill a flat spot for attachment. This leads to touching up the finish. 1 and 2 are my least favorite because the guitar has a tendency to dump forward, i.e. least balanced. 1 risks splitting the heel for the aforementioned reasons... and more so as you are screwing into the narrowest part of the heel. It also detracts from a nicely capped heel as seen in this picture. If your guitar has a stiletto heel, forget it. 2 is equally unbalanced as in 1. Structurally, not too bad as there is usually a sizable hunk of wood to drill into, just don't miss the block or get the screw too close to the edge. I also don't like 1 and 2 because, depending on the padding in your case the entire weight of the guitar could compress the padding, through to the back of the case creating an unnatural stress point. A blow to the case would be almost directly transmitted to the guitar's neck. For this reason, I would rather say NOT to do it. I know, I know there are many of them out there like this. I just think the others are so far superior to these two locations I cannot with good conscience recommend them on any level.
brums Posted November 1, 2011 Author Posted November 1, 2011 My favorites are 3 and 4. 3 being my ultimate favorite, as long as you there is a substantial hunk of wood behind it. If there isn't a substantial hunk of wood behind this location, one can be added at little cost and little loss in aesthetic value. Using 3 makes for perfect balance, it won't tip forward as with the back applied buttons; 1 and 2. 4 is fairly well balanced. Puting a screw into the heel risks splitting it. Drill an appropriate sized pilot hole before installing the screw. If you don't know what an appropriately sized pilot hole is, do not attempt this yourself. 4 only looks good and works well if you have a flat heel like this, which is rare. 5 is next best. Not as well balanced, and, again you risk splitting the heel for the aforementioned reasons. Also, this area tends to be rounded. Strap buttons are made to be affixed to flat surfaces like positions 3, 2, 1, the butt end, and 4 in this particular style of heel only. Many guitar manufacturers are installing them at position 5 at the factory. In the above pic I think the button is too low and too near the joint. I'd move it about half way towards the fret board. To be structurally sound, one should mill a flat spot for attachment. This leads to touching up the finish. 1 and 2 are my least favorite because the guitar has a tendency to dump forward, i.e. least balanced. 1 risks splitting the heel for the aforementioned reasons... and more so as you are screwing into the narrowest part of the heel. It also detracts from a nicely capped heel as seen in this picture. If your guitar has a stiletto heel, forget it. 2 is equally unbalanced as in 1. Structurally, not too bad as there is usually a sizable hunk of wood to drill into, just don't miss the block or get the screw too close to the edge. I also don't like 1 and 2 because, depending on the padding in your case the entire weight of the guitar could compress the padding, through to the back of the case creating an unnatural stress point. A blow to the case would be almost directly transmitted to the guitar's neck. For this reason, I would rather say NOT to do it. I know, I know there are many of them out there like this. I just think the others are so far superior to these two locations I cannot with good conscience recommend them on any level. Thanks for you TommyK I'm still indecided for Position 5 ..... 5 makes difficult to access to some frets....
j45nick Posted November 1, 2011 Posted November 1, 2011 I'm still indecided for Position 5 ..... 5 makes difficult to access to some frets.... That's the reservation I have about this position on the typical acoustic. It's hard enough to get up there on the neck on a non-cutaway guitar, without having a strap in the way. On my electrics (ES 335's), the strap button is at position 1, but these guitars are double-cutaway and have a solid center block as well, so this location works structurally abd ergonomically. They are also body heavy guitars, so this position doesn't end up being overly neck-heavy. I don't think there is a perfect answer on a non-cutaway acoustic. Position 1 on my electrics puts the strap out of the way at the 20th fret on a 22-fret neck. On a 14-fret acoustic neck joint, you're only at the 15th fret in position 1.
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