Riffster Posted May 26, 2014 Share Posted May 26, 2014 It was a great try actually. I had to really ponder if it would work because it would be a neat way to use SPDT Yeah with a DPDT if our pins are 1 2 3 4 5 6 The we would have a resistor between 1 and 2, a resistor between 5 and 6, and then wires from 3 and 4 going to the board If you're switching a cap, I'd use DPDT on-off-on that way you can have 3 settings. The middle (off) position can be stock, and the outer positions can add a cap in parallel (which adds the capacitance of two caps together). I am still scratching my head on the SPDT switch, while the signal would flow through the switch rather than the resistor/cap wouldn't the opposite side of the switch then run the signal through the resistor/cap? The only reason I want to use SPDT switches is that the size allows me to place then neatly on the front top of the enclosure, there is barely enough room. I really like this idea much better than placing the switched on the side. Initially I wanted to make the gain switchable but I don't think I'd ude that switch much. I am going to do a switchable cap for bass response change and the other switch will be mid-range adjustment. I ordered 15nf and 18nf caps since everywhere I read it seems most do not like the 22nf option. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan H Posted May 26, 2014 Share Posted May 26, 2014 My son made me a gorgeous guitar stand for Christmas 2012. He's decided to build more, but he's not sure how to market them. I think he should start a website, but with only 2 stands to display, he doesn't think he's ready for one. We'd appreciate any marketing advice and your opinions of the design - constructive criticism is welcome too. The laminating, bending, and construction process would be the same, but each stand will be custom made and no two would be identical. Here's the cherry prototype: I think those stands look incredible! I'd definitely buy one. Regarding a website, I have some experience in website design, and I'd be more than willing to build a website for your son. Drop me a PM if you're interested! -Ryan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knowyourenemy Posted May 26, 2014 Share Posted May 26, 2014 Hi all I have a Vintage SG that I have had lying around for a while. Largely ignored but I have thought about making it in to a mini project. The first thing would to bin the pickups (they sound horrific), however I have no idea which pickups to buy. I was thinking of a Seymour Duncan JB SH-4 in the neck and a Seymour Duncan Alinco II in the bridge. I play rock, blues and a little metal so looking for something that can give me a nice clean blues tones but one that can also be turned up to 11 for a bit of rocking out Anyone have any other suggestions? Thanks in advance for the advice :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan H Posted May 26, 2014 Share Posted May 26, 2014 I was thinking of a Seymour Duncan JB SH-4 in the neck and a Seymour Duncan Alinco II in the bridge. I play rock, blues and a little metal so looking for something that can give me a nice clean blues tones but one that can also be turned up to 11 for a bit of rocking out Anyone have any other suggestions? Thanks in advance for the advice :) I would probably switch the two; JB in the bridge, Alnico II in the neck. The reasoning is the JB is a Very hot overwound humbucker, great for rock and metal, where you'll spend most of your time on the bridge pickup. The Alnico II's are lower output, sweeter, and will give you nice cleans and a great blues/rock sound. Though i'm a Wolfetone Pickups guy myself, but I won't make this any more complicated than it needs to be :P -Ryan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dub-T-123 Posted May 26, 2014 Author Share Posted May 26, 2014 I am still scratching my head on the SPDT switch, while the signal would flow through the switch rather than the resistor/cap wouldn't the opposite side of the switch then run the signal through the resistor/cap? The only reason I want to use SPDT switches is that the size allows me to place then neatly on the front top of the enclosure, there is barely enough room. I really like this idea much better than placing the switched on the side. Initially I wanted to make the gain switchable but I don't think I'd ude that switch much. I am going to do a switchable cap for bass response change and the other switch will be mid-range adjustment. I ordered 15nf and 18nf caps since everywhere I read it seems most do not like the 22nf option. If you wire the SPDT like my diagram (whether you're switching resistors or caps) then both will have at least one leg always connected, but the signal can only flow through one at a time Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dub-T-123 Posted May 26, 2014 Author Share Posted May 26, 2014 I would probably switch the two; JB in the bridge, Alnico II in the neck. The reasoning is the JB is a Very hot overwound humbucker, great for rock and metal, where you'll spend most of your time on the bridge pickup. The Alnico II's are lower output, sweeter, and will give you nice cleans and a great blues/rock sound. Though i'm a Wolfetone Pickups guy myself, but I won't make this any more complicated than it needs to be :P -Ryan My buddy just got a Berumen LP esque guitar with wolfetone humbuckers. It's set up with a 5 way switch to give you different single coil options and stuff and all of the settings sound really sweet. Much better than most coil tapped humbuckers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dub-T-123 Posted May 26, 2014 Author Share Posted May 26, 2014 And here's a short clip of my last germanium Fuzz Face build. It's also capable of many cleaner sounds not shown here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
krock Posted May 27, 2014 Share Posted May 27, 2014 And here's a short clip of my last germanium Fuzz Face build. It's also capable of many cleaner sounds not shown here http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gNMoQZChBUI That sounds great. Im guessing the amp was an vox ac4. What guitar were you using? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dub-T-123 Posted May 27, 2014 Author Share Posted May 27, 2014 Thanks dude! There are a lot of different sounds you can get out of it just by altering your playing style or guitar's controls. I'd have to do a pretty serious clip to show what it can really do The amp was actually my ac30, I had my phone sitting on the ac4 to record the clip though. The guitar was my Rickenbacker 660 (single coil pickups) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knowyourenemy Posted May 27, 2014 Share Posted May 27, 2014 I would probably switch the two; JB in the bridge, Alnico II in the neck. The reasoning is the JB is a Very hot overwound humbucker, great for rock and metal, where you'll spend most of your time on the bridge pickup. The Alnico II's are lower output, sweeter, and will give you nice cleans and a great blues/rock sound. Though i'm a Wolfetone Pickups guy myself, but I won't make this any more complicated than it needs to be :P -Ryan Thanks for the suggestion Ryan, ill switch them and out the JB in the bridge. Pictures of my attempts will be posted, project will comnence when I have finished decorating my house (need to build up some brownie points with the Mrs!) :unsure: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
krock Posted May 27, 2014 Share Posted May 27, 2014 Thanks dude! There are a lot of different sounds you can get out of it just by altering your playing style or guitar's controls. I'd have to do a pretty serious clip to show what it can really do The amp was actually my ac30, I had my phone sitting on the ac4 to record the clip though. The guitar was my Rickenbacker 660 (single coil pickups) Im starting to understand the importance of a versatile fuzz. My tastes change often between black keys style fuzz and hendrix fuzz so I use both muff's and ff's. I built a ff into an old metal spacer tin and it seems to be holding up well so far. There's loads of metal tins in the garage that Im attempting to re-purpose because they have cool designs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dub-T-123 Posted May 28, 2014 Author Share Posted May 28, 2014 I dunno if versatile is the right word for this. It has a pretty wide range of distortion, but mostly I think it just has a usable sound that would be good in many different applications Honestly I think a good FF would handle Hendrix and Black Keys type sounds easily. I'd say try something a little more out there. The Bosstone is an easy build and I guess Dan says it's his favorite fuzz. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Riffster Posted June 1, 2014 Share Posted June 1, 2014 Ah, my wah is back, I had swapped the gain resistor based on a mod that is all over the internet and I hated it, switched it back to the stock 390ohms and that is the ticket. Now waiting for some switches, caps and resistors to make the midrange and bass response selectable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
surfpup Posted June 1, 2014 Share Posted June 1, 2014 Ah, my wah is back, I had swapped the gain resistor based on a mod that is all over the internet and I hated it, switched it back to the stock 390ohms and that is the ticket. Yeah that resistor can be tricky. I've used 270 ohm up to 470 ohm in the same spot. Depends on the wah version it seems. Gotta trust your ear - which you did. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Riffster Posted June 12, 2014 Share Posted June 12, 2014 Well it took me a few hours but I set up my Dobro to have much lower action in a way that can still be played with slide but also as and acoustic guitar. I can now throw in bass lines while playing slide too. Not that I am any good at it but the right action makes a huge difference. Setting up this instrument was an investment in patience, slow and easy does it. I replaced the nut with a Tusq XL, removed the dye from fretboard and oiled and sanded the saddles down. The result is exactly what I wanted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
surfpup Posted June 12, 2014 Share Posted June 12, 2014 Well it took me a few hours but I set up my Dobro to have much lower action in a way that can still be played with slide but also as and acoustic guitar. On mine I use a metal nut that sits on top of the regular nut - this allows me to have the high dobro action or a lower, fretable action (though not both like your arrangement). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
surfpup Posted June 15, 2014 Share Posted June 15, 2014 The silver vein is a finish by pedalpartsplus.com As soon as I got my first order of powdercoated enclosures from them, I gave up spraying my own finishes. Their finishes just rule Took your advice and indeed their finishes are great! Unfortunately they couldn't get my drill order right, but I made do... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dub-T-123 Posted June 15, 2014 Author Share Posted June 15, 2014 Ooh sorry the drilling wasn't what you were expecting. I drill my own so I've never tried getting them drilled from PPP before Their customer service is great, if you email them about your problem they should fix you up, or buy them undrilled Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drog Posted June 15, 2014 Share Posted June 15, 2014 My son made me a gorgeous guitar stand for Christmas 2012. He's decided to build more, but he's not sure how to market them. I think he should start a website, but with only 2 stands to display, he doesn't think he's ready for one. We'd appreciate any marketing advice and your opinions of the design - constructive criticism is welcome too. The laminating, bending, and construction process would be the same, but each stand will be custom made and no two would be identical. Here's the cherry prototype: This is the new oak stand (click for Photobucket link): The oak was steam bent, then laminated and glued; this technique provides a very stable structure by staggering the grain during the bending process. The main connections on the neck and base are doweled and glued so no screws can be seen from the front or back. Both glue and screws were used to attach the rails from the bottom. Five coats of shellac give it a beautiful finish. Very nice stands! I would be interested Couple of ideas/suggestions. Felt strips where the instrument touches the wood( nitro safe). Maybe make the front part of the stand ( the wood brace that holds the guitar from kicking out) make that adjustable for different width of instruments? How would he make each different? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
surfpup Posted June 15, 2014 Share Posted June 15, 2014 Ooh sorry the drilling wasn't what you were expecting. I drill my own so I've never tried getting them drilled from PPP before Their customer service is great, if you email them about your problem they should fix you up, or buy them undrilled Yes, they did send another pair of enclosures immediately - still not quite right, but usable enough. I ordered two holes on top - no led. The first order had an extra small hole in the side - like for a mini switch or LED with no bezel. The second set came three hole - which I could live with by adding an LED bezel. As you said, the finishes are amazing. Love the texture, I could never spray that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dub-T-123 Posted June 15, 2014 Author Share Posted June 15, 2014 Do you have a drill press or a decent drill? I've never been satisfied with predrilled enclosures. They always look a little off. My stuff can look off too but with practice and careful measuring you can do it better than these guys. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
surfpup Posted June 15, 2014 Share Posted June 15, 2014 Do you have a drill press or a decent drill? Oh yeah, I have a drill press. I just hate doing it. If I can't find a pre-drilled pattern I like I will do it myself, but I hate having to drill 3 or 4 times to get it up to size - especially those 1/2" holes for the switch and power supply. Plus I had a drill bit bind once and my hand got caught between the enclosure and the drill press. Hurt like a MOFO! I try to leave the drilling to someone else if possible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Riffster Posted June 15, 2014 Share Posted June 15, 2014 Finally! I have the wah I wanted. I added the two switches to select between a 10nf and a 15nf cap for the sweep and another switch to select between a 1.5k and a 2.2k resistor for midrange. Initially I used a 14nf cap but I wanted a little more bass and the 15nf was the ticket. Sounds perfect. I ran into complications because I broke off a leg on the LED, that was a bummer, I remembered I had a violet LED in my spare parts, while i was soldering it the unattached leg touched ground and that was all she wrote it burned up in a puff. I went back to mt spare parts and found a green LED that I took out something and I had to use it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dub-T-123 Posted June 16, 2014 Author Share Posted June 16, 2014 Oh yeah, I have a drill press. I just hate doing it. If I can't find a pre-drilled pattern I like I will do it myself, but I hate having to drill 3 or 4 times to get it up to size - especially those 1/2" holes for the switch and power supply. Plus I had a drill bit bind once and my hand got caught between the enclosure and the drill press. Hurt like a MOFO! I try to leave the drilling to someone else if possible. I use a step drill bit so I don't have to change my bit for different sized holes. If your bit is nice and sharp that will help keep it from snagging. The bit cost like $35 but you'll save that in no time by drilling yourself Riffster - nice job bud did you end up using SPDTs like we talked about? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Riffster Posted June 16, 2014 Share Posted June 16, 2014 Riffster - nice job bud did you end up using SPDTs like we talked about? I did, they fit nicely. Not sure a DPDT would have fit there. Inside the resistors look fine since they follow the cable, the caps look a little goofy since they hang from one leg, but then I added shrink tubing over the cap/leg/wire joint and it looked better. I am glad I did it this way, for some reason I have never care for wahs with knobs and switches on the sides. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.