Jump to content
Gibson Brands Forums
Sign in to follow this  
Dub-T-123

The DIY thread

Recommended Posts

It was a great try actually. I had to really ponder if it would work because it would be a neat way to use SPDT

 

Yeah with a DPDT if our pins are

 

1 2

3 4

5 6

 

The we would have a resistor between 1 and 2, a resistor between 5 and 6, and then wires from 3 and 4 going to the board

 

If you're switching a cap, I'd use DPDT on-off-on that way you can have 3 settings. The middle (off) position can be stock, and the outer positions can add a cap in parallel (which adds the capacitance of two caps together).

 

I am still scratching my head on the SPDT switch, while the signal would flow through the switch rather than the resistor/cap wouldn't the opposite side of the switch then run the signal through the resistor/cap?

 

The only reason I want to use SPDT switches is that the size allows me to place then neatly on the front top of the enclosure, there is barely enough room. I really like this idea much better than placing the switched on the side.

 

Initially I wanted to make the gain switchable but I don't think I'd ude that switch much. I am going to do a switchable cap for bass response change and the other switch will be mid-range adjustment.

 

I ordered 15nf and 18nf caps since everywhere I read it seems most do not like the 22nf option.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

My son made me a gorgeous guitar stand for Christmas 2012. He's decided to build more, but he's not sure how to market them. I think he should start a website, but with only 2 stands to display, he doesn't think he's ready for one. We'd appreciate any marketing advice and your opinions of the design - constructive criticism is welcome too. The laminating, bending, and construction process would be the same, but each stand will be custom made and no two would be identical.

 

Here's the cherry prototype: th_DBWoodsStand002.jpg

 

th_2a5ece5f-bf2b-435d-8174-eced0db5634d.jpg

 

I think those stands look incredible! I'd definitely buy one. Regarding a website, I have some experience in website design, and I'd be more than willing to build a website for your son. Drop me a PM if you're interested!

 

-Ryan

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi all

 

I have a Vintage SG that I have had lying around for a while. Largely ignored but I have thought about making it in to a mini project. The first thing would to bin the pickups (they sound horrific), however I have no idea which pickups to buy.

 

I was thinking of a Seymour Duncan JB SH-4 in the neck and a Seymour Duncan Alinco II in the bridge. I play rock, blues and a little metal so looking for something that can give me a nice clean blues tones but one that can also be turned up to 11 for a bit of rocking out

 

Anyone have any other suggestions?

 

Thanks in advance for the advice :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I was thinking of a Seymour Duncan JB SH-4 in the neck and a Seymour Duncan Alinco II in the bridge. I play rock, blues and a little metal so looking for something that can give me a nice clean blues tones but one that can also be turned up to 11 for a bit of rocking out

 

Anyone have any other suggestions?

 

Thanks in advance for the advice :)

 

I would probably switch the two; JB in the bridge, Alnico II in the neck. The reasoning is the JB is a Very hot overwound humbucker, great for rock and metal, where you'll spend most of your time on the bridge pickup. The Alnico II's are lower output, sweeter, and will give you nice cleans and a great blues/rock sound.

 

Though i'm a Wolfetone Pickups guy myself, but I won't make this any more complicated than it needs to be :P

 

-Ryan

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I am still scratching my head on the SPDT switch, while the signal would flow through the switch rather than the resistor/cap wouldn't the opposite side of the switch then run the signal through the resistor/cap?

 

The only reason I want to use SPDT switches is that the size allows me to place then neatly on the front top of the enclosure, there is barely enough room. I really like this idea much better than placing the switched on the side.

 

Initially I wanted to make the gain switchable but I don't think I'd ude that switch much. I am going to do a switchable cap for bass response change and the other switch will be mid-range adjustment.

 

I ordered 15nf and 18nf caps since everywhere I read it seems most do not like the 22nf option.

If you wire the SPDT like my diagram (whether you're switching resistors or caps) then both will have at least one leg always connected, but the signal can only flow through one at a time

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I would probably switch the two; JB in the bridge, Alnico II in the neck. The reasoning is the JB is a Very hot overwound humbucker, great for rock and metal, where you'll spend most of your time on the bridge pickup. The Alnico II's are lower output, sweeter, and will give you nice cleans and a great blues/rock sound.

 

Though i'm a Wolfetone Pickups guy myself, but I won't make this any more complicated than it needs to be :P

 

-Ryan

My buddy just got a Berumen LP esque guitar with wolfetone humbuckers. It's set up with a 5 way switch to give you different single coil options and stuff and all of the settings sound really sweet. Much better than most coil tapped humbuckers

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks dude! There are a lot of different sounds you can get out of it just by altering your playing style or guitar's controls. I'd have to do a pretty serious clip to show what it can really do

 

The amp was actually my ac30, I had my phone sitting on the ac4 to record the clip though. The guitar was my Rickenbacker 660 (single coil pickups)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I would probably switch the two; JB in the bridge, Alnico II in the neck. The reasoning is the JB is a Very hot overwound humbucker, great for rock and metal, where you'll spend most of your time on the bridge pickup. The Alnico II's are lower output, sweeter, and will give you nice cleans and a great blues/rock sound.

 

Though i'm a Wolfetone Pickups guy myself, but I won't make this any more complicated than it needs to be :P

 

-Ryan

 

Thanks for the suggestion Ryan, ill switch them and out the JB in the bridge. Pictures of my attempts will be posted, project will comnence when I have finished decorating my house (need to build up some brownie points with the Mrs!) :unsure:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks dude! There are a lot of different sounds you can get out of it just by altering your playing style or guitar's controls. I'd have to do a pretty serious clip to show what it can really do

 

The amp was actually my ac30, I had my phone sitting on the ac4 to record the clip though. The guitar was my Rickenbacker 660 (single coil pickups)

 

Im starting to understand the importance of a versatile fuzz. My tastes change often between black keys style fuzz and hendrix fuzz so I use both muff's and ff's. I built a ff into an old metal spacer tin and it seems to be holding up well so far. There's loads of metal tins in the garage that Im attempting to re-purpose because they have cool designs.

 

2mdgxkw.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I dunno if versatile is the right word for this. It has a pretty wide range of distortion, but mostly I think it just has a usable sound that would be good in many different applications

 

Honestly I think a good FF would handle Hendrix and Black Keys type sounds easily. I'd say try something a little more out there. The Bosstone is an easy build and I guess Dan says it's his favorite fuzz.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ah, my wah is back, I had swapped the gain resistor based on a mod that is all over the internet and I hated it, switched it back to the stock 390ohms and that is the ticket.

 

Now waiting for some switches, caps and resistors to make the midrange and bass response selectable.

 

306B69A4-B67E-4F1F-A294-ECDBD7CBD50F_zpshj258kwv.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ah, my wah is back, I had swapped the gain resistor based on a mod that is all over the internet and I hated it, switched it back to the stock 390ohms and that is the ticket.

 

Yeah that resistor can be tricky. I've used 270 ohm up to 470 ohm in the same spot. Depends on the wah version it seems. Gotta trust your ear - which you did. [thumbup]

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well it took me a few hours but I set up my Dobro to have much lower action in a way that can still be played with slide but also as and acoustic guitar. I can now throw in bass lines while playing slide too. Not that I am any good at it but the right action makes a huge difference.

 

Setting up this instrument was an investment in patience, slow and easy does it.

 

I replaced the nut with a Tusq XL, removed the dye from fretboard and oiled and sanded the saddles down. The result is exactly what I wanted.

 

B1366F36-172D-4DB6-8F90-EA5003BDD272_zps5pbggzkr.jpg

22E87399-7B53-4E1A-9155-39250CE87309_zpsxg8ezqtn.jpg

47F7BA72-87EC-48AF-927A-4EE19195177F_zpszonggtfa.jpg

A774DE36-3EA0-4F86-BE38-DF1B4B701A95_zpsu8adwdpz.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well it took me a few hours but I set up my Dobro to have much lower action in a way that can still be played with slide but also as and acoustic guitar.

 

On mine I use a metal nut that sits on top of the regular nut - this allows me to have the high dobro action or a lower, fretable action (though not both like your arrangement).

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 

The silver vein is a finish by pedalpartsplus.com

 

As soon as I got my first order of powdercoated enclosures from them, I gave up spraying my own finishes. Their finishes just rule

 

Took your advice and indeed their finishes are great! [thumbup] Unfortunately they couldn't get my drill order right, but I made do...

 

DSC_0028-1.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ooh sorry the drilling wasn't what you were expecting. I drill my own so I've never tried getting them drilled from PPP before

 

Their customer service is great, if you email them about your problem they should fix you up, or buy them undrilled

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

My son made me a gorgeous guitar stand for Christmas 2012. He's decided to build more, but he's not sure how to market them. I think he should start a website, but with only 2 stands to display, he doesn't think he's ready for one. We'd appreciate any marketing advice and your opinions of the design - constructive criticism is welcome too. The laminating, bending, and construction process would be the same, but each stand will be custom made and no two would be identical.

 

Here's the cherry prototype: th_DBWoodsStand002.jpg This is the new oak stand (click for Photobucket link):th_2a5ece5f-bf2b-435d-8174-eced0db5634d.jpg

 

The oak was steam bent, then laminated and glued; this technique provides a very stable structure by staggering the grain during the bending process. The main connections on the neck and base are doweled and glued so no screws can be seen from the front or back. Both glue and screws were used to attach the rails from the bottom. Five coats of shellac give it a beautiful finish.

Very nice stands! I would be interested

 

Couple of ideas/suggestions. Felt strips where the instrument touches the wood( nitro safe). Maybe make the front part of the stand ( the wood brace that holds the guitar from kicking out) make that adjustable for different width of instruments?

 

How would he make each different?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ooh sorry the drilling wasn't what you were expecting. I drill my own so I've never tried getting them drilled from PPP before

 

Their customer service is great, if you email them about your problem they should fix you up, or buy them undrilled

 

Yes, they did send another pair of enclosures immediately - still not quite right, but usable enough. I ordered two holes on top - no led. The first order had an extra small hole in the side - like for a mini switch or LED with no bezel. The second set came three hole - which I could live with by adding an LED bezel. As you said, the finishes are amazing. Love the texture, I could never spray that.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Do you have a drill press or a decent drill?

 

I've never been satisfied with predrilled enclosures. They always look a little off. My stuff can look off too but with practice and careful measuring you can do it better than these guys.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Do you have a drill press or a decent drill?

 

 

Oh yeah, I have a drill press. I just hate doing it. If I can't find a pre-drilled pattern I like I will do it myself, but I hate having to drill 3 or 4 times to get it up to size - especially those 1/2" holes for the switch and power supply. Plus I had a drill bit bind once and my hand got caught between the enclosure and the drill press. [crying] Hurt like a MOFO! I try to leave the drilling to someone else if possible.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Finally! I have the wah I wanted.

 

I added the two switches to select between a 10nf and a 15nf cap for the sweep and another switch to select between a 1.5k and a 2.2k resistor for midrange.

 

Initially I used a 14nf cap but I wanted a little more bass and the 15nf was the ticket. Sounds perfect.

 

I ran into complications because I broke off a leg on the LED, that was a bummer, I remembered I had a violet LED in my spare parts, while i was soldering it the unattached leg touched ground and that was all she wrote it burned up in a puff.

 

I went back to mt spare parts and found a green LED that I took out something and I had to use it.

 

BD2903D6-8A22-4C53-9584-F8A8A4FE4E40_zpsmf51v5hd.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Oh yeah, I have a drill press. I just hate doing it. If I can't find a pre-drilled pattern I like I will do it myself, but I hate having to drill 3 or 4 times to get it up to size - especially those 1/2" holes for the switch and power supply. Plus I had a drill bit bind once and my hand got caught between the enclosure and the drill press. [crying] Hurt like a MOFO! I try to leave the drilling to someone else if possible.

I use a step drill bit so I don't have to change my bit for different sized holes. If your bit is nice and sharp that will help keep it from snagging. The bit cost like $35 but you'll save that in no time by drilling yourself

 

Riffster - nice job bud did you end up using SPDTs like we talked about?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Riffster - nice job bud did you end up using SPDTs like we talked about?

 

I did, they fit nicely. Not sure a DPDT would have fit there.

 

Inside the resistors look fine since they follow the cable, the caps look a little goofy since they hang from one leg, but then I added shrink tubing over the cap/leg/wire joint and it looked better.

 

I am glad I did it this way, for some reason I have never care for wahs with knobs and switches on the sides.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
Sign in to follow this  

×
×
  • Create New...