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Dub-T-123

The DIY thread

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Hi Dub

I hope you are well - it's all immaculately wired and lookin' very good - especially the Meatball and the Klon [thumbup] [thumbup] [thumbup]

Thanks hope you're well also!

 

The Meatball is one of the coolest pedals that I've tried, let alone built! With my modified boss OC-2 octave in the effects loop it sounds like a fat analog synth. It's amazing. If you use another distortion or overdrive or whatever in the effects loop, you'll get the most out of the filter because the envelope is detecting your clean dynamics, not the compressed signal from the distortion. Some of the controls are a little redundant but overall it's the best envelope filter out there for me because the effects loop makes it so usable and the sound is delicious.

 

The Klon is pretty amazing as a boost/light OD. My friend has a silver Klon and my clone is spot on, so if you've tried one you already know how that sounds. Neither of those pedals will be up for sale, I need them for myself!

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... No these are Neutrik which are cheaper than Switchcraft but a little more heavy duty. Switchcraft are very good but Neutrik has thicker, harder metal. ... Neutrik makes really good enclosed jacks which are my favorite, but their open frame jacks are still the most durable imo

 

Giddyup! Been ordering them 100 at a time, haven't had a problem yet. [thumbup]

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And the second Rangemaster in this tiny batch of two :P

 

6A8263FD-04FD-44F7-BFC7-6C5A64010117_zpsdfbtbxhg.jpg

72512AE0-B37B-4C1A-91BA-F8639BA1B6BA_zps5z32ljai.jpg

 

Hey Dub, just noticed you have a ground lug bolted to the inside of the enclosures...how do you fasten that? Does it go through the enclosure and just rivet in or something?

 

-Ryan

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Another custom build for a forumite. EVOL asked me to build him a Prescription Electronics Yardbox clone and here it is.. It's a slightly modified MKIII Tone Bender

 

1262737A-0F0D-4770-AA39-9A8663759CD0_zpsojt3sc6a.jpg

56B26F52-D58D-45E3-BA70-7D746AFCFFEB_zpsukojsfs2.jpg

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I liked EVOL's Yardbox so I made another without the "gain" control. Just volume, fuzz, and tone! So pretty much just a slightly tweaked MKIII Bender :)

 

D3B60F57-2ADD-425C-8E26-EC8AD583BD22_zpsu25t9ace.jpg

00230EFD-6B42-4FDC-9BE5-DD4F84D8B951_zpszvrrxt1q.jpg

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Haven't been making many boosters lately - attenuators and TS9 mods have been sucking up all my time. But Karloff's band mate ordered a Baby Fat.

 

Had so much fun, I built two. [biggrin] I gotta start doing more boosters again.

 

IMG_4933.jpg

 

IMG_4932.jpg

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Nice! What are those based on again?

 

I did some a little playing around and swapped the trannies in my last MKIII build today. I think I'll keep this one this way now. It's not very loud, but it sounds smooth and low noise. Really tasty fuzz! I ended up with two OC71N and an AC125. Check it out

 

753D753D-284F-4588-B8A0-9C70551EA1CD_zpscvwesv0x.jpg

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My tightest build yet by far...a simple little 2-band active EQ, 400Hz and 1kHz. No room for a stomp switch, so just put a little DPDT toggle in for true bypass with no LED. Used 9mm PCB pots, Switchcraft jacks, and a PCB I made of Mark's vero layout on Tagboardeffects. Sounds great. The 400Hz band really fattens everything up and pushes an amp nicely, and I mostly use the 1kHz band to cut out some of those nasty high upper-mids.

 

2YqbjJR.jpg

 

vaFgk63.jpg

 

Also, I love Smallbear's pre-bonded stranded wire...great stuff.

 

-Ryan

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I have been gradually working my way through cheap guitar repairs, with the goal of starting to make guitars from scratch in the near future. The first project was an old Norma body that got a Maestro neck, which required all kinds of cutting and shaving and a new heel, because making it a set neck was the only way to make it work. Then came the rebuild of my King V, which, again, meant moving and setting the neck to make everything work. This time, it's an Epi with a beyond-repair headstock:

 

BrokenLPNeck2_zps8f5068b7.jpg

 

So I made a new headstock. The binding looks terrible, but I'm kind of new to this:

 

DSCN3787_zpspzaai5iu.jpg

 

The alignment of the tuners was a wee bit off. Oh, well.

 

Here it is after I scraped the binding and fixed areas where I scraped finish off the wood:

 

DSCN3804_zps5jyc2uis.jpg

 

I mocked it up yesterday. The pickups are my usual 490R and 498T:

 

DSCN3811_zpszvx0ugis.jpg

 

The nitro should be all gassed out now. I'm going to start the level sanding and polishing tonight. I absolutely hate this part.

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And my first legit NugeFX Sig 800 is done...no more vero for me, except prototyping. PCB all the way.

 

Wiring's a little messier than I would have liked, but still pretty neat all things considered. Smallbear's pre-bonded stranded wire is fantastic to work with.

 

RYOEJUU.jpg

 

swhOapl.jpg

 

This is the best sounding one by far...made a few tweaks from the first 2 prototypes. Makes anything you plug it into sound like a Marshall, and even works well with amps that are already Marshall-flavored. Stacks well with other pedals and amp gain, in addition to clean amps. Really dynamic...very little compression. That enough marketing jargon?

 

This one's sold, but I should have time tomorrow morning to do a demo of it before I hand it off to it's new owner. Friend from elementary school.

 

-Ryan

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Haven't been making many boosters lately - attenuators and TS9 mods have been sucking up all my time. But Karloff's band mate ordered a Baby Fat.

 

Had so much fun, I built two. [biggrin] I gotta start doing more boosters again.

 

IMG_4933.jpg

 

IMG_4932.jpg

 

sweet ! i know I love mine.

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Wiring's a little messier than I would have liked, but still pretty neat all things considered.

 

Looks relatively neat to me - and you're keeping the wires short, which IMHO is a plus sonically. [thumbup]

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Looks relatively neat to me - and you're keeping the wires short, which IMHO is a plus sonically. [thumbup]

 

Yeah, I just leave a little bit of slack in the wire just in case something gets jolted. The wiring's a big improvement over my previous work...man those were rats nests.

 

Also, just measured the current draw. A measly 6.7ma peak. Definitely battery-safe. 3 solid days of continuous operation from the included 9V battery.

 

-Ryan

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And my first legit NugeFX Sig 800 is done...no more vero for me, except prototyping. PCB all the way.

 

Wiring's a little messier than I would have liked, but still pretty neat all things considered. Smallbear's pre-bonded stranded wire is fantastic to work with.

 

RYOEJUU.jpg

 

swhOapl.jpg

 

This is the best sounding one by far...made a few tweaks from the first 2 prototypes. Makes anything you plug it into sound like a Marshall, and even works well with amps that are already Marshall-flavored. Stacks well with other pedals and amp gain, in addition to clean amps. Really dynamic...very little compression. That enough marketing jargon?

 

This one's sold, but I should have time tomorrow morning to do a demo of it before I hand it off to it's new owner. Friend from elementary school.

 

-Ryan

Nice work dude. Gotta ask though, why would you use a daughter board for the charge pump when you could have just included it on the main board??

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Nice work dude. Gotta ask though, why would you use a daughter board for the charge pump when you could have just included it on the main board??

 

I use those 9-18V charge pumps in more pedals that just this one, and I sometimes make little standalone converter boxes in 1590A's. It just makes more sense for me to order them separately.

 

Another thing I want to try is taking the output of one to a regulator to drop it down to 15V, then use that to feed another 9-18V charge pump. The LT1054 can take up to 15V, and output up to 30V.

 

-Ryan

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Since you're custom ordering the PCB you might as well just include it on there and get the other boards for other projects lol

 

That would instantly make it cleaner and less work for what seems like the same price but I've never ordered PCBs before

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Since you're custom ordering the PCB you might as well just include it on there and get the other boards for other projects lol

 

That would instantly make it cleaner and less work for what seems like the same price but I've never ordered PCBs before

 

I'll try it on my next batch of PCB's. Still have 5 more to populate before then. Drew it up in Diptrace anyways...adds about 1/2" onto the board, width-wise, but I have room in the box. Did the math and it's the same price as ordering them separately...

 

Worth a shot.

 

Before:

 

33cd5e0c533f268ab17abd17b8d31c66.png

 

After:

 

548e36033fb19e3a5a0255b7ac9737b3.png

 

-Ryan

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Nice. The idea for the 30V supply sounds cool. The LT1054 is a pretty badass pump. I got a bunch of 7660S in bulk so I usually use those.

 

Be careful about running it right at it's max voltage. I would probably use a 78L15 and drop it with a diode before hitting the LT1054. You could actually probably fit all of that in the space that you added to put the pump onboard

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Nice. The idea for the 30V supply sounds cool. The LT1054 is a pretty badass pump. I got a bunch of 7660S in bulk so I usually use those.

 

Be careful about running it right at it's max voltage. I would probably use a 78L15 and drop it with a diode before hitting the LT1054. You could actually probably fit all of that in the space that you added to put the pump onboard

 

Yeah I'd definitely toss at least a regulator in front of it...

 

-Ryan

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So I made a new headstock. The binding looks terrible, but I'm kind of new to this:

 

DSCN3787_zpspzaai5iu.jpg

 

 

Finally, something I can comment on :)

 

Well to me that looks pretty good man if you are new to it all.. You will only get better as you go and we all gotta learn somehow...

 

So I say well done [thumbup] Keep it coming and when you start your own builds id be really interested to see them :)

 

For my head stock machine head holes, I have a template I use which is the shape of my headstock with the holes already drilled and tested.. that way I get it right every time [thumbup] (I just make them from MDF or pine boards that I have, and printed the template out originally so I knew it was accurate).

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