scmglotr Posted January 6, 2012 Share Posted January 6, 2012 Does anybody know the factory specs on tailpiece height? Also what do you guys recommend on a les paul? Any suggestions are appreciated. Just trying out different set up options in search of that magical moment when the guitar feels "just right" in my hands and I become one with the guitar. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GibSinCity Posted January 7, 2012 Share Posted January 7, 2012 Usually based on the intonation and where the saddles on the bridge end up. Adjust the tailpiece so the string/strings don't touch the back of the bridge as it/they descend into the tailpiece. You can see the strings touching the back of the bridge here: Some people "Top Wrap", so they can lower the tailpiece all the way and still clear the bridge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tazzboy Posted January 7, 2012 Share Posted January 7, 2012 Mine is screwed all way down to the body. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
strat-o-steve Posted January 7, 2012 Share Posted January 7, 2012 The sweet spot is having it set where the strings do not contact the bridge and/or cause any weird rattles and such :P Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Angellus Posted January 7, 2012 Share Posted January 7, 2012 GibSinCity said it it one. ABR-1 bridges are thinner and will allow you to screw all the way down. I do have an alternative if you want it screwed all the way down? (IMO its best for resonance and sustain) check out faber Hardware from Germany http://www.tokaiguitar.de/produktdetail.php?id=15 that will get you the same benefits of having your tailpeice screwed all the way down but at 3 different heights so you can match your nashville bridge like GibSinCity's advice. the next question is Zinc composite or hollow Aluminum tailpeice? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yaff Posted January 7, 2012 Share Posted January 7, 2012 Simple! 1 - Get the action as you like it 2 - Get the intonation correct 3 - Lower the Tailpiece as low as you can, without the string touching the back of the Bridge Lower the better, as tone can escape. The height you end up with will be determined by the position of your Bridge. Not all Gibson s are the same, which is why its adjustable. Some people also like to top wrap, you can Google it if your interested. All the best Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
11Bravo Posted January 12, 2012 Share Posted January 12, 2012 I always left mine stock, but I'm curious to read other people's setups... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GibSinCity Posted January 12, 2012 Share Posted January 12, 2012 As for stop bar height ,I ajusted my stop bar height so the strings were not touching the back of the bridge , then I seen a les paul with a bigsby, the strings were all touching the back of the bridge , I have a gibson les paul studio faded ,after making the adjustment ,I dident notice a difference when playing , some people leave the stop bar down , a little mixed up about this , any info would be great . As I understand it, the Bigsby can't be adjusted up and down like a normal tailpiece, it's right down on the body. So after adjusting the action, if the bridge ends up low enough, the strings may touch the back of the bridge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Angellus Posted January 12, 2012 Share Posted January 12, 2012 As I understand it, the Bigsby can't be adjusted up and down like a normal tailpiece, it's right down on the body. So after adjusting the action, if the bridge ends up low enough, the strings may touch the back of the bridge. i'd replace the nashville with an ABR-1 to eliminate the problem. Bigsby was originally used on gibsons with an ABR-1 and the whole stopbar height touching the back of the bridge is IMO a Nashville bridge issue due to its extra girth compared to the ABR-1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yaff Posted January 12, 2012 Share Posted January 12, 2012 As for stop bar height ,I ajusted my stop bar height so the strings were not touching the back of the bridge , then I seen a les paul with a bigsby, the strings were all touching the back of the bridge , I have a gibson les paul studio faded ,after making the adjustment ,I dident notice a difference when playing , some people leave the stop bar down , a little mixed up about this , any info would be great . Its up to you, its your guitar. Buy the way, on my old Studio faded had to keep the bar a little off the body. But its all the way down on my R8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GibSinCity Posted January 13, 2012 Share Posted January 13, 2012 i'd replace the nashville with an ABR-1 to eliminate the problem. Bigsby was originally used on gibsons with an ABR-1 and the whole stopbar height touching the back of the bridge is IMO a Nashville bridge issue due to its extra girth compared to the ABR-1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dg77 Posted January 13, 2012 Share Posted January 13, 2012 Simple! 1 - Get the action as you like it 2 - Get the intonation correct 3 - Lower the Tailpiece as low as you can, without the string touching the back of the Bridge Lower the better, as tone can escape. The height you end up with will be determined by the position of your Bridge. Not all Gibson s are the same, which is why its adjustable. Some people also like to top wrap, you can Google it if your interested. All the best Correct me if I'm wrong, I'm not super experienced on set ups but I've done it on my prs a few times, but if you get the intonation set and then drop the tailpiece, wouldn't that then throw off the intonation as it lengthens the strings? So shouldn't you lower it and then adjust the bridge as needed for intonation? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yaff Posted January 13, 2012 Share Posted January 13, 2012 Correct me if I'm wrong, I'm not super experienced on set ups but I've done it on my prs a few times, but if you get the intonation set and then drop the tailpiece, wouldn't that then throw off the intonation as it lengthens the strings? So shouldn't you lower it and then adjust the bridge as needed for intonation? Although it would be worth checking after, its the gap between the Nut, Frets and Saddles that effect the intonation. And the position of the Bridge that determines the position of the Saddles: - On some LP`s you will need the saddle set all the way back, top get the intonation correct - If so, you will have no issue with having the stop bar - On others, the Saddles may be all the fay forward, which means the you will have to keep the tailpiece a little higher, if you are to avoid the strings touching the back edge of the Bridge - Until you set the intonation, you will not know the position of the saddles, so cant set the tailpiece As I don't have a diagram or time to draw one, its difficult to explain, but heedfully you will get it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dg77 Posted January 13, 2012 Share Posted January 13, 2012 Although it would be worth checking after, its the gap between the Nut, Frets and Saddles that effect the intonation. And the position of the Bridge that determines the position of the Saddles: - On some LP`s you will need the saddle set all the way back, top get the intonation correct - If so, you will have no issue with having the stop bar - On others, the Saddles may be all the fay forward, which means the you will have to keep the tailpiece a little higher, if you are to avoid the strings touching the back edge of the Bridge - Until you set the intonation, you will not know the position of the saddles, so cant set the tailpiece As I don't have a diagram or time to draw one, its difficult to explain, but heedfully you will get it. That makes sense. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Angellus Posted January 13, 2012 Share Posted January 13, 2012 Its up to you, its your guitar. Buy the way, on my old Studio faded had to keep the bar a little off the body. But its all the way down on my R8 Studio = Nashville R8 = ABR-1 thats the reason your R8 will go all the way down. You got your studio pretty low for the nashville though IMO thats great Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yaff Posted January 13, 2012 Share Posted January 13, 2012 Studio = Nashville R8 = ABR-1 thats the reason your R8 will go all the way down. You got your studio pretty low for the nashville though IMO thats great Live and learn! Thinks for pointing that out The only issue with your point, is my 08 Standard had a Nashville style bridge and the Tailpiece was all the way down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roadhog96 Posted January 13, 2012 Share Posted January 13, 2012 I've spent a lot of time trying different theories outband I honestly cannot detect any longer sustain with the tailpiece screwed all the way down. Supposedly with it raised it reduces the string tension and makes bends easier. I found that adjusting the tailpiece so that when the string break angle at the bridge/tailpiece matchedv the nut/headstock angle you can't go wrong .one of those aftermarket companies makes a tailpiece that has several different height spacers so that you can set it were you want it and still make a tight connection with the body. I think it was Faber . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Angellus Posted January 15, 2012 Share Posted January 15, 2012 I've spent a lot of time trying different theories outband I honestly cannot detect any longer sustain with the tailpiece screwed all the way down. Supposedly with it raised it reduces the string tension and makes bends easier. I found that adjusting the tailpiece so that when the string break angle at the bridge/tailpiece matchedv the nut/headstock angle you can't go wrong .one of those aftermarket companies makes a tailpiece that has several different height spacers so that you can set it were you want it and still make a tight connection with the body. I think it was Faber . yeah its the faber that I got. I got their Aluminum stop bar too. I personally notice a difference in the tone adds an spacious undertone similiar to a chambered model but with the beef of solid body. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZuWa Posted January 15, 2012 Share Posted January 15, 2012 I've spent a lot of time trying different theories outband I honestly cannot detect any longer sustain with the tailpiece screwed all the way down. Supposedly with it raised it reduces the string tension and makes bends easier. I found that adjusting the tailpiece so that when the string break angle at the bridge/tailpiece matchedv the nut/headstock angle you can't go wrong .one of those aftermarket companies makes a tailpiece that has several different height spacers so that you can set it were you want it and still make a tight connection with the body. I think it was Faber . I lower the stopbar like most of you, until the strings strike the back of the bar after intonating the bridge.. I then raise the screws a 1/4 turn and stop. Too much tension will actually decrease string movement in the middle of the string, the area of greatest movement since the string is anchored at two points (nut/headstock and bridge/stoptail). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Angellus Posted January 15, 2012 Share Posted January 15, 2012 Live and learn! Thinks for pointing that out The only issue with your point, is my 08 Standard had a Nashville style bridge and the Tailpiece was all the way down. im not saying it doesn't happen its just very uncommon on a nashville without modification. This is due to the fact that no 2 maple carved tops are the same and the various tolerances of neck joints and angles. The Nashville was a Norlin creation made to reduce production costs similar to CBS' decision to bolt the fender necks with only 3 bolts. Norlin also made lp's with a 'pancake' body 2 slabs of mahogany sandwiched for the body then the maple cap on top along with a shorter neck tennon. Its because of these various changes to the build of les pauls that make the 59's so much more desireable and why we have the VOS R8 R7 and R9's at a premier price. also the stop bars and bridges are made from Zinc composite.......Diecast is the more common name. The cheapest man made metal on the market between your strings and your tonewood body, but thats another arguement Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
outtahere Posted January 15, 2012 Share Posted January 15, 2012 - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajbcc2 Posted January 16, 2012 Share Posted January 16, 2012 i always thought that the less of an angle off the bridge the better..less chance of string breakage. and although i never tried it i thought that the less the tail stop is in the air and more into the wood the better the resonance. my tailstop has just over 1/8th " under it to the body..the strings are touching the bridge and there is a bit of an angle which may cause breakage at some point. i just reset my Lp after buying it . checked neck for relief, set string height, then intonation and mine plays with ease..I use 9's ,i just read B.Gibbons uses 7's or 8's!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ADG Posted September 3, 2012 Share Posted September 3, 2012 wrap over I like bending better with my stopbar all the way down and wrapping over the bar. I do it that way on both the 'bird and the LP These are really good news for me. I have a LPST , my 1st Les Paul otherwise and from the 1st day I was very much happy with the sustain, feel and sound it's just I couldn't get along with the tailpiece. As I played Floyd Rose or Edge bridge guitars my hand just doesn't feel right with that high positioned stop bar. Quite concerned that might end up with off tune or other miracles I did not dare to play with the original setup. Was already considering a change to Axcess but reading these lines made me hope that with a bit of adjustment I can keep my baby. A wine red LP is just too beautiful to separate from :) Many thanks for sharing your opinion(s). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DieselGenny Posted September 3, 2012 Share Posted September 3, 2012 Not that I'm any great shakes of a player - but I'm also a "top-wrapper", both on my LP and SG ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jakeyspaw Posted May 22, 2014 Share Posted May 22, 2014 Please - I notice in the two pictures above - the bridge saddle screws are facing different directions - one LP has the bridge saddle screw set facing the tailpiece and the other has the bridge screw set facing the pickups - Does it matter? Anti matter? Nuclear Reactor? Thank you. Studio = Nashville R8 = ABR-1 thats the reason your R8 will go all the way down. You got your studio pretty low for the nashville though IMO thats great Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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