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scmglotr

stop bar height

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Does anybody know the factory specs on tailpiece height? Also what do you guys recommend on a les paul? Any suggestions are appreciated. Just trying out different set up options in search of that magical moment when the guitar feels "just right" in my hands and I become one with the guitar.

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Usually based on the intonation and where the saddles on the bridge end up.

Adjust the tailpiece so the string/strings don't touch the back of the bridge as it/they descend into the tailpiece.

 

You can see the strings touching the back of the bridge here:

LPSM6SECH1-Features-Tailpiece.jpg

 

Some people "Top Wrap", so they can lower the tailpiece all the way and still clear the bridge.

topwrap.jpg

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GibSinCity said it it one. ABR-1 bridges are thinner and will allow you to screw all the way down. I do have an alternative if you want it screwed all the way down? (IMO its best for resonance and sustain) check out faber Hardware from Germany

http://www.tokaiguitar.de/produktdetail.php?id=15

 

that will get you the same benefits of having your tailpeice screwed all the way down but at 3 different heights so you can match your nashville bridge like GibSinCity's advice.

 

the next question is Zinc composite or hollow Aluminum tailpeice? [thumbup]

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Simple!

 

1 - Get the action as you like it

2 - Get the intonation correct

3 - Lower the Tailpiece as low as you can, without the string touching the back of the Bridge

 

Lower the better, as tone can escape.

 

The height you end up with will be determined by the position of your Bridge. Not all Gibson s are the same, which is why its adjustable.

 

Some people also like to top wrap, you can Google it if your interested.

 

All the best

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As for stop bar height ,I ajusted my stop bar height so the strings were not touching the back of the bridge , then I seen a les paul with a bigsby, the strings were all touching the back of the bridge , I have a gibson les paul studio faded ,after making the adjustment ,I dident notice a difference when playing , some people leave the stop bar down , a little mixed up about this , any info would be great .

 

As I understand it, the Bigsby can't be adjusted up and down like a normal tailpiece, it's right down on the body.

So after adjusting the action, if the bridge ends up low enough, the strings may touch the back of the bridge.

 

517983.035_sn-76350_close_angle_X.jpg

100_0068.jpg

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As I understand it, the Bigsby can't be adjusted up and down like a normal tailpiece, it's right down on the body.

So after adjusting the action, if the bridge ends up low enough, the strings may touch the back of the bridge.

 

517983.035_sn-76350_close_angle_X.jpg

100_0068.jpg

 

i'd replace the nashville with an ABR-1 to eliminate the problem.

 

 

Bigsby was originally used on gibsons with an ABR-1 and the whole stopbar height touching the back of the bridge is IMO a Nashville bridge issue due to its extra girth compared to the ABR-1

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As for stop bar height ,I ajusted my stop bar height so the strings were not touching the back of the bridge , then I seen a les paul with a bigsby, the strings were all touching the back of the bridge , I have a gibson les paul studio faded ,after making the adjustment ,I dident notice a difference when playing , some people leave the stop bar down , a little mixed up about this , any info would be great .

 

Its up to you, its your guitar.

 

Buy the way, on my old Studio faded had to keep the bar a little off the body.

IMG_2912-1.jpg

IMG_2910.jpg

 

But its all the way down on my R8

GibsonLesPaul1958VOS006.jpg

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i'd replace the nashville with an ABR-1 to eliminate the problem.

 

 

Bigsby was originally used on gibsons with an ABR-1 and the whole stopbar height touching the back of the bridge is IMO a Nashville bridge issue due to its extra girth compared to the ABR-1

 

[thumbup]

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Simple!

 

1 - Get the action as you like it

2 - Get the intonation correct

3 - Lower the Tailpiece as low as you can, without the string touching the back of the Bridge

 

Lower the better, as tone can escape.

 

The height you end up with will be determined by the position of your Bridge. Not all Gibson s are the same, which is why its adjustable.

 

Some people also like to top wrap, you can Google it if your interested.

 

All the best

 

Correct me if I'm wrong, I'm not super experienced on set ups but I've done it on my prs a few times, but if you get the intonation set and then drop the tailpiece, wouldn't that then throw off the intonation as it lengthens the strings? So shouldn't you lower it and then adjust the bridge as needed for intonation?

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Correct me if I'm wrong, I'm not super experienced on set ups but I've done it on my prs a few times, but if you get the intonation set and then drop the tailpiece, wouldn't that then throw off the intonation as it lengthens the strings? So shouldn't you lower it and then adjust the bridge as needed for intonation?

 

Although it would be worth checking after, its the gap between the Nut, Frets and Saddles that effect the intonation. And the position of the Bridge that determines the position of the Saddles:

 

- On some LP`s you will need the saddle set all the way back, top get the intonation correct - If so, you will have no issue with having the stop bar

- On others, the Saddles may be all the fay forward, which means the you will have to keep the tailpiece a little higher, if you are to avoid the strings touching the back edge of the Bridge

- Until you set the intonation, you will not know the position of the saddles, so cant set the tailpiece

 

As I don't have a diagram or time to draw one, its difficult to explain, but heedfully you will get it.

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Although it would be worth checking after, its the gap between the Nut, Frets and Saddles that effect the intonation. And the position of the Bridge that determines the position of the Saddles:

 

- On some LP`s you will need the saddle set all the way back, top get the intonation correct - If so, you will have no issue with having the stop bar

- On others, the Saddles may be all the fay forward, which means the you will have to keep the tailpiece a little higher, if you are to avoid the strings touching the back edge of the Bridge

- Until you set the intonation, you will not know the position of the saddles, so cant set the tailpiece

 

As I don't have a diagram or time to draw one, its difficult to explain, but heedfully you will get it.

 

 

That makes sense.

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Its up to you, its your guitar.

 

Buy the way, on my old Studio faded had to keep the bar a little off the body.

IMG_2912-1.jpg

IMG_2910.jpg

 

But its all the way down on my R8

GibsonLesPaul1958VOS006.jpg

 

Studio = Nashville

 

R8 = ABR-1

 

 

thats the reason your R8 will go all the way down. You got your studio pretty low for the nashville though IMO thats great [thumbup]

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Studio = Nashville

 

R8 = ABR-1

 

 

thats the reason your R8 will go all the way down. You got your studio pretty low for the nashville though IMO thats great [thumbup]

 

Live and learn! Thinks for pointing that out

 

The only issue with your point, is my 08 Standard had a Nashville style bridge and the Tailpiece was all the way down.

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I've spent a lot of time trying different theories outband I honestly cannot detect any longer sustain with the tailpiece screwed all the way down. Supposedly with it raised it reduces the string tension and makes bends easier. I found that adjusting the tailpiece so that when the string break angle at the bridge/tailpiece matchedv the nut/headstock angle you can't go wrong .one of those aftermarket companies makes a tailpiece that has several different height spacers so that you can set it were you want it and still make a tight connection with the body. I think it was Faber .

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I've spent a lot of time trying different theories outband I honestly cannot detect any longer sustain with the tailpiece screwed all the way down. Supposedly with it raised it reduces the string tension and makes bends easier. I found that adjusting the tailpiece so that when the string break angle at the bridge/tailpiece matchedv the nut/headstock angle you can't go wrong .one of those aftermarket companies makes a tailpiece that has several different height spacers so that you can set it were you want it and still make a tight connection with the body. I think it was Faber .

 

yeah its the faber that I got. I got their Aluminum stop bar too. I personally notice a difference in the tone adds an spacious undertone similiar to a chambered model but with the beef of solid body.

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I've spent a lot of time trying different theories outband I honestly cannot detect any longer sustain with the tailpiece screwed all the way down. Supposedly with it raised it reduces the string tension and makes bends easier. I found that adjusting the tailpiece so that when the string break angle at the bridge/tailpiece matchedv the nut/headstock angle you can't go wrong .one of those aftermarket companies makes a tailpiece that has several different height spacers so that you can set it were you want it and still make a tight connection with the body. I think it was Faber .

 

 

I lower the stopbar like most of you, until the strings strike the back of the bar after intonating the bridge.. I then raise the screws a 1/4 turn and stop. Too much tension will actually decrease string movement in the middle of the string, the area of greatest movement since the string is anchored at two points (nut/headstock and bridge/stoptail).

 

 

 

 

 

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Live and learn! Thinks for pointing that out

 

The only issue with your point, is my 08 Standard had a Nashville style bridge and the Tailpiece was all the way down.

 

 

im not saying it doesn't happen its just very uncommon on a nashville without modification. This is due to the fact that no 2 maple carved tops are the same and the various tolerances of neck joints and angles.

 

The Nashville was a Norlin creation made to reduce production costs similar to CBS' decision to bolt the fender necks with only 3 bolts. Norlin also made lp's with a 'pancake' body 2 slabs of mahogany sandwiched for the body then the maple cap on top along with a shorter neck tennon. Its because of these various changes to the build of les pauls that make the 59's so much more desireable and why we have the VOS R8 R7 and R9's at a premier price.

 

also the stop bars and bridges are made from Zinc composite.......Diecast is the more common name. The cheapest man made metal on the market between your strings and your tonewood body, but thats another arguement [unsure]

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i always thought that the less of an angle off the bridge the better..less chance of string breakage. and although i never tried it i thought that the less the tail stop is in the air and more into the wood the better the resonance. my tailstop has just over 1/8th " under it to the body..the strings are touching the bridge and there is a bit of an angle which may cause breakage at some point.

i just reset my Lp after buying it . checked neck for relief, set string height, then intonation and mine plays with ease..I use 9's ,i just read B.Gibbons uses 7's or 8's!!!

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wrap over I like bending better with my stopbar all the way down and wrapping over the bar. I do it that way on both the 'bird and the LP

 

 

These are really good news for me. I have a LPST , my 1st Les Paul otherwise and from the 1st day I was very much happy with the sustain, feel and sound it's just I couldn't get along with the tailpiece.

As I played Floyd Rose or Edge bridge guitars my hand just doesn't feel right with that high positioned stop bar.

Quite concerned that might end up with off tune or other miracles I did not dare to play with the original setup.

Was already considering a change to Axcess but reading these lines made me hope that with a bit of adjustment I can keep my baby.

A wine red LP is just too beautiful to separate from :)

Many thanks for sharing your opinion(s).

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Please - I notice in the two pictures above - the bridge saddle screws are facing different directions - one LP has the bridge saddle screw set facing the tailpiece and the other has the bridge screw set facing the pickups - Does it matter? Anti matter? Nuclear Reactor? Thank you.

Studio = Nashville

 

R8 = ABR-1

 

 

thats the reason your R8 will go all the way down. You got your studio pretty low for the nashville though IMO thats great [thumbup]

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