justshane Posted January 18, 2012 Share Posted January 18, 2012 I recently got a beat up, used Gibson J-45. A few cracks in it, kind of dusty. Heck, the thing was toured hard for several years as a main guitar...but let me tell you, the thing absolutely sings! Cracks and all beat up, this things plays like a dream and sings like an angel! Here is my question, it is a 2004 I believe. The cracks and stuff don't bother me at all. They have been sealed and I can always get them repaired more later if they do bother me. My question is this; I was thinking that this was a Modern Classic (or Standard) J-45 but it has the Gold logo and white button tuning keys. Was this standard then? What are a good size string to run on it? I think that there are .13's on it now, but I use .12 Cleartones on my other acoustics. Thoughts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeremy Morton Posted January 18, 2012 Share Posted January 18, 2012 Use 12's if that is what you usually use. It may or may not need a neck adjustment with the new strings on it. Enjoy the new old guitar. Post some pics? JM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rar Posted January 18, 2012 Share Posted January 18, 2012 My question is this; I was thinking that this was a Modern Classic (or Standard) J-45 but it has the Gold logo and white button tuning keys. Was this standard then? 2004 was before the terms "Modern Classic" and "True Vintage" were introduced (2007) and even longer before "Standard" was used for acoustics. But, yes, gold logo and white button Klusons-like tuners were standard in 2004. What are a good size string to run on it? Some people prefer .012s, some .013s. (Personally, I prefer .012s on most recent J-45s.) You need to try both -- ideally, several brands of both -- and decide what works best for your ears, your playing style, and your guitar. -- Bob R Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dhanners623 Posted January 18, 2012 Share Posted January 18, 2012 Congrats on your acquisition! That said, are the cracks repaired or not? You said they were "sealed," but there can be a world of difference between "sealed" and "properly repaired." Where are they? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justshane Posted January 18, 2012 Author Share Posted January 18, 2012 There is one crack on the top and then one on the back. Both about 3.5-4 inches long. I actually know the luthier that sealed them and I absolutely trust his work. He did it about 5 years ago and they haven't moved or changed at all, so they don't really worry me. When I say sealed, I mean that he stopped them from cracking more, but he didn't completely repair them and make them invisible. My guess is that the person that owned the guitar wasn't really bothered by it because it didn't effect sound or playability. I know the guy that owned it as well and I know that they used this guitar for many years when they were touring so it definitely hasn't been babied or anything like that. It is definitely a working man's guitar! HAHAHA Is there anything that I need to watch for on the cracks? Maybe just movement or widening of them or anything? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dhanners623 Posted January 18, 2012 Share Posted January 18, 2012 Were it me, I'd get the cracks repaired. They may seem stable now, but a crack is a crack. It won't fix itself and it will just get worse over time. Also, keep in mind that a shorter crack is less expensive to fix than a longer crack. Most repair shops charge by the inch when it comes to gluing/cleating cracks. For example, Hoffman Guitars in Minneapolis, where I get all my work done, charges $50 per inch for a top or back crack, and $40-$60 an inch for side cracks. (And those are without any finish touch-up.) So there is definitely an incentive for fixing the crack while it is short. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeremy Morton Posted January 18, 2012 Share Posted January 18, 2012 Were it me, I'd get the cracks repaired. They may seem stable now, but a crack is a crack. It won't fix itself and it will just get worse over time. Also, keep in mind that a shorter crack is less expensive to fix than a longer crack. Most repair shops charge by the inch when it comes to gluing/cleating cracks. For example, Hoffman Guitars in Minneapolis, where I get all my work done, charges $50 per inch for a top or back crack, and $40-$60 an inch for side cracks. (And those are without any finish touch-up.) So there is definitely an incentive for fixing the crack while it is short. I agree. if you like the guitar the best thing to do would be to make sure the cracks will not get worse. JM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pfox14 Posted January 19, 2012 Share Posted January 19, 2012 I would get it fixed. If it sounds really good now, just think how good it will sound with all the cracks repaired. I would also recommend using 12s on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lefty Guy Posted January 19, 2012 Share Posted January 19, 2012 Sounds like my 2005 J-45. Does yours have an orange label inside? if so its an "Historic" model, which was what they called the Standard one then I believe. I use Elixir Nano PB 12s on mine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justshane Posted January 19, 2012 Author Share Posted January 19, 2012 Yes, it does have the orange label! I put .12's on it last night. Now I just have to wait for the strings to get alittle old. I am one of those strange birds that likes strings when they age a little and get a little of that "thunk" to them. New strings are just a little too bright for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lefty Guy Posted January 19, 2012 Share Posted January 19, 2012 Yes, it does have the orange label! I put .12's on it last night. Now I just have to wait for the strings to get alittle old. I am one of those strange birds that likes strings when they age a little and get a little of that "thunk" to them. New strings are just a little too bright for me. .....& your label says "Historic Collection" too? re strings, I use the phosphor bronze for that very reason - less bright. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justshane Posted January 19, 2012 Author Share Posted January 19, 2012 I put some Cleartone strings that I had on there. I also just put some .12 D'Addario EXP strings on my Taylor, so I will try those out. May just have to go back to regular GHS Phospher Bronze strings. Mine doesn't say "Historic" on it. Just the orange label with "Style: J-45". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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