339 vintage bridge vibrates...

[esch]

Amazing guitar except the "vintage" bridge has got to go, the wire going across the screws vibrates...I took out the wire and now its better but the bridge could shift as a result...anybody know what kind of bridge to replace this or another solution (I think someone mentioned painting the wire with nail polish before which I am sceptical of)? I looked at a tonepros system II but the screws are too big and dont fit into the holes in the body of the guitar.

 

Also, the vintage bridge is not as wide as the bridges on my LPs, so the range of screw travel isn't far enough on my G and B string to get the perfect intonation.

[RudyH]

I agree that the ES339 is a beauty.

 

I'm curious about something, though. There's a similar looking model called the CS336. Is the ES339 just a re-naming of that guitar, or is it a different model altogether. How do they differ?

[clayville]

esch: you don't need to replace it. If you're wary of the fingernail polish trick, you can just push down on the wire between two saddle screws with the tip of a screwdriver to put a little kink in it and increase the tension. That's what I did, and it worked like a charm. I highly recommend putting lots of protection under the bridge in case the screwdriver slips (or doing this with the bridge off the guitar). Careful but firm pressure is all it takes.

 

RudyH: The 339 and 336 are the same shape and size, but the construction is completely different. The 339 is made much like a 335 -- pressed ply top and back, bent ply sides, a center block glued in. The 336 is made more like a chambered LP -- the back, sides and centerblock are routed out of a solid slab of mahogany. The top is a bookmatched maple cap that is then routed/dished like an LP with F-holes.

[Murph]

I used just a "touch" of clear silicone with a toothpick. Can't see it. Isn't brittle, will last forever.

 

Once the intonation is right, it's not gonna change.

 

Case closed.

 

When the saddles wear out I might go with the TonePro bridge.

 

Or not.

 

Best to ya.

 

Murph.

[KennyF]

I used just a "touch" of clear silicone with a toothpick. Can't see it. Isn't brittle' date=' will last forever.[/quote']

 

+1

[bobv]

Esch you've discovered why they redesigned the bridge and changed over from ABR-1 to Nashville. The newer bridges have more intonation travel and the saddles don't rattle (no wire, either). Plus they're on sturdier studs that don't lean. Yet, all those differences can affect the tone so you'll find the earlier ABR-1 bridge in the Historics. Ok enough of the rant - what to do. Well, the Nashville is not interchangeable with your ABR-1 since the spacing is different. However, Tone Pros makes an "AVR" bridge that's made on the spacing to fit your posts, and it's also made to look like an ABR-1 for stealth purposes - however the wire is decorative, the saddles stay put, and there's more travel range if you need it for intonation. First, fiddle with the wire, don't lose it. Else call Brian at Marquis Distributing (one of the dealers linked from the Tone Pros site) and you can't go wrong. However you'll probably need it to be professionally installed unless you're willing to settle for pre-notched saddles that put each string at the same distance.

 

By the way the bridge on my ES339 does not buzz, knock wood. But I've gone through a few bridges on my old archtop Gretsch.

[esch]

Thanks guys.

For now I'll revisit the TonePros System II which I've discovered just drops right onto the existing posts and my guitar tech says he's aleady installed it on a few 339s. Also good point about making sure the saddle spacing is the same, I hadn't thought of that.

If it doesn't work I guess I'll just stick with the ABR-1 or call Brian at Marquis as suggested.

Thanks again!

D