TUNING ISSUES/EPI-ES 175 REISSUE

[Epiplaya]

Hey there,recently picked up a Korean made Epi-es-175 reissue.

Great guitar,sound amazing and the neck is very playable.

 

Having issues with tuning.After a session of playing the

guitar goes sharp.I currently have gauge .11 flat-wounds

on the guitar.

 

Anyone have a suggestions as to why the above scenario is

taking place?

 

Thnx much~

[RSDx]

Going sharp??? Strings binding in nut would be my best guess.... try lubing the nut with pencil "lead" shavings or powdered graphite as a quick/cheap fix. if that doesn't help, i'd suspect your nut needs the slots filed a tad wider...

[jonnyg]

I can't tell you why it does it but I can tell you that I've had a 70's MIJ Antoria 175 for 30 years that does exactly the same thing. Always goes a bit sharp, never flat. I've had it set up by a very good guitar guy several times over the years and a properly cut bone nut fitted but the sharp tuning thing, never cured it. Someone once suggested that it may be due to temperature changes on a hollow body, but my Riviera (although only semi hollow) doesn't suffer from sharp tuning. As it's not a problem when I'm actually playing it, I just stopped thinking about it.

[brianh]

I'm thinking temerature changes too. After the guitar warms up, the neck/body expands slightly and the strings go sharp.

 

It's common in instruments kept in an environment where the temp fluctuates a bit.

[rubyred]

I

'm thinking temerature changes too. After the guitar warms up, the neck/body expands slightly and the strings go sharp.

 

I have noticed it more in the last month with mine, was wondering `what`s with that`, we have had a pretty hot & humid month here, so that would explain it.

[Bandini]

I think I may have an answer. I haven't had this problem with my 175 before, but the other day I played it with the band in anger. Suddenly it's way out of tune. The low strings are sharp but the high strings are flat. I realize I'm resting my hand on the bridge, and I'm reasonably sure I must have slightly moved it. After retuning and making sure I didn't touch the bridge, the problem didn't reappear.

 

Now this is a problem. For playing live I may want to get a guitar with a stop tailpiece. I'm lusting for an ES-137 anyway, so... Or maybe the bridge could be semi-fixed. Just something between the top and bridge that would increase friction enough that it won't move. Thoughts?

[brianh]

I thought I read somewhere about "pinning" a floating bridge to a full-hollow archtop to prevent sliding.

 

Obviously it would be irreversible, so measure 27 times and drill once...

[Epiplaya]

Thanks for all the responses!

 

Hopefully its just a weather related situation since

I have just had a bone nut put in by a luthier and lubed

it with pencil shavings(which I think is kinder to the body and

definitely cheaper than nut sauce.)

[Parabar]

There are several other ways to prevent or reduce bridge movement without permanent mods to the guitar:

 

1) A piece of double-stick tape on the bridge base.

2) Sanding the bridge base to better fit the contour of the body. To do this, place a piece of 180 grit sandpaper rough side up over the body where the bridge saddle will sit, then rub the bridge base over the sandpaper to get an exact match of curvature. 180 grit will roughen the bridge base a little too for more traction.

3) Heavier gauge strings will hold the bridge in place better.

4) A little bit of sticky wax on the bridge base, like the kind used to stick piezo pickups onto acoustic instruments. The trick here is that it has to be a VERY thin layer, otherwise it can reduce contact between bridge and body and interfere with the transfer of vibration, reducing tone and sustain.

[Epiplaya]

I think when summer arrives I'll know for sure

if its weather related.

In terms of bridgework I will take it into consideration

in the future,perhaps pinning the bridge as a last resort.

[Bandini]

Thank you Parabar. That's very helpful. I really didn't like the idea of a permanent mod, but a combination of sanding and double-stick tape sounds perfect.

[Blueman335]

The majority of 'tuner' problems are nut slots, not tuners. Thick strings like 11's are probably binding in the slots. I have a small tube of grahite powder, the kind used for pad locks (got it at a hyardware store). Several dollars and it will last you many years. Seasonal changes are also a potential issue too, and that's easily fixed with a 1/4 to 1/2 turn on the truss rod. No need to wait months for the weather to change.

[RSDx]

I have a small tube of graphite powder, the kind used for pad locks (got it at a hardware store). Several dollars and it will last you many years.

Same here....inexpensive, effective, and easy....not into shaving pencils ;) ...not to mention, as you said, it'll indeed last for years.

[Epiplaya]

Just to elaborate a little more(hope to make any needed adjustments in the future),

it seems I need to stretch and detune the strings before I tune up.If that procedure is

done there really doesn't seem to be an issue with the above mentioned issue.

Would that imply the tuners(they're Grovers)are cheap/defective or that the bridge needs

to be pinned or something else?

 

Thnx much~

[Blueman335]

I've never had probelms with any Grover tuers, and most of my guitars have Grovers. The problem is more likely tight nut slots. You shouldn't have to stretch and detune after you've done it once with new strings.

[Epiplaya]

I've never had probelms with any Grover tuers, and most of my guitars have Grovers. The problem is more likely tight nut slots. You shouldn't have to stretch and detune after you've done it once with new strings.

 

Thanks for ur reply.

 

Recently had a bone nut put in by a professional luthier

so I am assuming it's another issue.