Hudsonfull Posted March 1, 2012 Posted March 1, 2012 Hi, I bought the Epiphone Slash "Appetite" Les Paul Standard and I would like to know which products you advise me so as to clean my guitar (strings, frets, fingerboard etc...) because there are so many products and I really don't know which one to choose !! You can see the specs there: http://www2.gibson.com/Products/Electric-Guitars/Les-Paul/Epiphone/Slash-Appetite-Les-Paul-Standard/Specs.aspx Thanks a lot for the answer and sorry for my bad english (French... !) Have a nice day, Bye Franck
Plus Top Dan Posted March 1, 2012 Posted March 1, 2012 I use Dr Stringfellow guitar polish and Dr Stringfellow Lemon oil on my guitars. Made by a company called Kyser i think? I also use Fast Fret for the strings and fretboard. There are plenty different options to use, a quick search on google will bring them all up.
brianh Posted March 1, 2012 Posted March 1, 2012 Poly finished guitars don't need much - Windex and a soft cloth will clean everything but the fretboard. Once you've had it awhile and it starts to get scratched up, you can use a good quality car polish to hide the scratches: http://forum.gibson.com/index.php/topic/49870-scratches-on-the-finish/page__pid__676227?do=findComment&comment=676227 If you bought it new and your fretting fingers are turning black, clean the fretboard a few times with Naptha (Petroleum Ether) and then treat with (non-silicone) lemon oil once or twice a year. Most of those commercial guitar polishing products are a ripoff and just create a waxy buildup when used on plastic-coated guitars: http://forum.gibson.com/index.php?/topic/54572-wire-wool/ Nitrocellulose lacquer finished guitars are a different story altogether.
Whitmore Willy Posted March 1, 2012 Posted March 1, 2012 (non-silicone) (non-silicone) (non-silicone) (non-silicone) (non-silicone) (non-silicone) Remember that part! Once you get silicon on something it can get spread thinner and thinner. It can be most difficult to completely remove it. Silicon is big time no-no for musical instruments and fine wood such as high end furniture. Although it wouldn't do any harm to a poly finish it would inevitably end up on the strings and fretboard. By the way... Congrats on the new guitar and welcome to the forum!!! Pics? Willy
DrBo42 Posted March 2, 2012 Posted March 2, 2012 If the rosewood in your neck is starting to get pretty dry (developing little pockets) I'd say go with linseed oil. That is, as a last step. Lemon oil is more of a cleaning tool while the linseed is more of a last touch for the fretboard's health. The great thing about linseed oil is that it will fill those pockets when it dries and keep the wood healthy. Use a few drops scattered across the fret board, rub it in, and wipe it dry. Stay away from furniture cleaning products or any of that other crap. Your guitar is not furniture.
Gordy01 Posted March 3, 2012 Posted March 3, 2012 For cleaning a guitar body, your breath is always the best. It is damp, but not wet. It costs nothing, and works very well with a soft cloth. Saliva is also a very good cleaner. For more stubborn stains or dirt on a Poly finish, a non silicone, non abrasive cleaner will do. As mentioned in the above post, I also use Linseed Oil for fingerboards. The one caution I would add to this is to get RAW Linseed Oil. The Boiled variety leaves a harder shean on the rosewood, and can build up easier. Lay the oil on fairly liberally, being careful not to get it everywhere, and leave it for 15 minutes. Wipe it off completely. If you leave it on too long, it can work it's way under any fret that may not be completely sealed with glue, and loosen the fret in the slot.
DrBo42 Posted March 3, 2012 Posted March 3, 2012 For cleaning a guitar body, your breath is always the best. It is damp, but not wet. It costs nothing, and works very well with a soft cloth. Saliva is also a very good cleaner. For more stubborn stains or dirt on a Poly finish, a non silicone, non abrasive cleaner will do. As mentioned in the above post, I also use Linseed Oil for fingerboards. The one caution I would add to this is to get RAW Linseed Oil. The Boiled variety leaves a harder shean on the rosewood, and can build up easier. Lay the oil on fairly liberally, being careful not to get it everywhere, and leave it for 15 minutes. Wipe it off completely. If you leave it on too long, it can work it's way under any fret that may not be completely sealed with glue, and loosen the fret in the slot. Well said. Yeah, stay away from boiled linseed oil.
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