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AutonomY

Intonationproblems on Epiphone

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Hi everybody!

 

I just purchased an Epiphone Les Paul Standard. Great instrument! But like the way it is set up, you cannot intonate it. The 1st,2nd and 3rd string saddles need to be turned around on the bold to get the intonation done. Can I do that without consequences regarding sustain or tone? Is this the way to use these saddles on a Tunomatic? Or are the saddles cut for one way only?

 

Greetings,

 

AutonomY

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Welcome to the forum AutonomY. [biggrin]

 

Yes you can turn the saddles around. People do it all the time. I've got my G string saddle turned around on my LP and my G400.

Definitely helps with the intonation and won't affect sustain or tone. At least I can't tell a difference; YMMV.

 

So go ahead and do it without any fear of negative consequences. [thumbup]

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Common problem, easily fixed. On most tune-o-matics, the saddles on the 3 high srings point one way, the other way on the low 3 strings. The first time I change strings on a new guitar, I turn around the saddles on the G and D strings to get the most movement. That just almost always allows me to get the intonation dialed in.

 

Every guitarist should own Dan Erlewine's book "How to make your electric guitar play great.' Teaches you all about set ups, lots of pics and text. You can get it from StewMac.

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Here is a pic of the bridge on my Ultra 2. It is set up the way you are suggesting.

 

You can change the saddles around which ever way you need.

 

 

LPBridge1.jpg

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Did you get the owners manual. If not use the link provided

 

http://www.epiphone.com/

 

Go to support - Owners manual - download the PDF file.

 

All you need to know about the factory setup is there for you.

 

Usually the intonation only changes when you change string gauge or manufacturer, change the nut, turn the truss rod, or change the string height (action, TOM Bridge up or down).

 

Getting a good book on guitar repair will pay for itself in a very short time. Factory strings are usually 10's by the way.

 

Welcome to the Forum.

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A point of interest. When I took my N'Hawk out of the box...the rod in the neck was totally loose and all 6 saddles were as high as they can go. This turned out to be handy 'cause I was able to set it up from ground zero. It was funny since the settings were listed as 4/64ths string height.

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Thanks everybody! That’s a relief,… I did it and I do not experience any problems. The picture is my setup now. I got the action on E1 0.070 and E6 on 0.076. That’s the best I can get. Is that ok? It feels smooth [thumbup]

post-45224-095894800 1341587359_thumb.jpg

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Thanks everybody! That’s a relief,… I did it and I do not experience any problems. The picture is my setup now. I got the action on E1 0.070 and E6 on 0.076. That’s the best I can get. Is that ok? It feels smooth [thumbup]

 

if it's working for you, then you have your answer! [thumbup]

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Thanks everybody! That’s a relief,… I did it and I do not experience any problems. The picture is my setup now. I got the action on E1 0.070 and E6 on 0.076. That’s the best I can get. Is that ok? It feels smooth [thumbup]

 

If it feels good to you, play it that way. If after a while you find the action still a bit high, read the following.

 

 

I do setups in my shop, part time. I generally try to get the BASS E at 060, to .065

.060 is the lowest I go. Past that is where buzzing starts.

 

Neck relief at the 7th and 9th, should be around .006 - .010, max.

 

The TREBLE E I can usually get to around .030, to .035.

 

The B could be .040

The G could be .045

and so on up to the Bass E.

 

These heights are attained by adjusting the bridge, and filing the saddles using nut files.

 

ALL MEASUREMENTS ARE WITH A CAPO ON THE 1ST FRET!! THIS TAKES THE NUT HEIGHT OUT OF THE EQUATION.

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You are all so kind [rolleyes]

You (kidblast and Gordy) are telling me very carefully that the action is too high [mellow]. “If after a while you find the action still a bit high” yes, the moment is there already [biggrin]. Ok,. I lowered it down to your specs and the way with the capo on pos. one. Yes, NOW it plays smoothly :D

ThanX!

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You are all so kind [rolleyes]

You (kidblast and Gordy) are telling me very carefully that the action is too high [mellow]. “If after a while you find the action still a bit high” yes, the moment is there already [biggrin]. Ok,. I lowered it down to your specs and the way with the capo on pos. one. Yes, NOW it plays smoothly :D

ThanX!

 

 

You're very welcome.

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Re String Gauge and intonation: I never realized how profound the differences in intonation can between two companies with the same gauge strings until I switched my usual D'Addario .008- .038s for Ernie Balls of the same gauge,granted there was a difference of .001 mm between the B and G strings but the differences in intonation were just huge and even on the E and D strings which were the same gauge on both sets.All that must be due to the alloys of metal used and/or string tension.

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Re String Gauge and intonation: I never realized how profound the differences in intonation can between two companies with the same gauge strings until I switched my usual D'Addario .008- .038s for Ernie Balls of the same gauge,granted there was a difference of .001 mm between the B and G strings but the differences in intonation were just huge and even on the E and D strings which were the same gauge on both sets.All that must be due to the alloys of metal used and/or string tension.

 

I think it has more to do with how high or low the strings sit in the nut and saddles that change the string distance between the nut and saddle. If you follow my meaning

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