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Be careful what you ask for...


ksdaddy

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Strip it. That stuff will get old really quickly I once lent a '70 Guild S-100 to a nephew. It came back five years later sprayed with gold Krylon and covered in surf punk stickers ( I wasn't annnoyed because the finsh was crap before that, and I'd never expected to see the guitar again anyway). It looked cool for the fiorst few months, but IMO, a player tires of anything with super busy artwork like that after a few months.

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I vote strip it. I don't think it will age well.

 

If it were mine I would I would get it back to wood and stain it a nice deep golden or something unusual (burst if you've got the skill). Then, like everyone else said... play the snot out of it. [thumbup]

 

No matter what you do, that's a nice score. Great guitar.

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Yeah, it's a tough call. Not one I should jump in haste.

 

It would be a LOT easier (a LOT) if it were a beat-to-crap 70s model with a repaired headstock and reamed out for Grovers AND it had decals and stickers from THAT era... R. Crumb's "Keep on Truckin'" guy, Disco Sucks, etc. Or any identifiable era other than 2008-12 for that matter. It's not 'far enough away' to have any retro cool.

 

The guitar may be a 2008 model but whoever put on those stickers was a dyed in the wool early/mid 80's freak. The J.R. 'Bob' Dobbs and the Big Black "Songs About Fukcing" girl are strong identifiers.

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It came in today. I think it might just be EXACTLY what I want.

 

On the good side, it has no breaks or cracks, no fret wear to speak of, and needs no parts nor has it been modified other than the obvious. It's quite unplayable at this moment because of the neck relief, horrible old mismatched electric and acoustic strings, and a bridge cranked too high. Easy fixes all.

 

I can't really think of anything on the down side.

 

What I wanted was to have a basic SG with little or no finish, bare bones, as natural as I could get it. Maybe a thin coat of oil or something. I didn't want to do it to a vintage "money" SG for obvious reasons and I didn't want to go ripping apart a perfectly good newer SG just to satisfy my whim. I'd never do that.

 

Duly noted all the opinions about the stickers and artwork. I'm leaning towards the original plan of strip. What makes it even better and easier to decide is that this thing has something funky going on with the finish. At first glance it looks like it was refinished with some kind of stain/varnish applied with a string mop. There are runs and blobs everywhere. However (more good news) is that I see no evidence of stripping the original finish or sanding or anything else. They may have simply wiped it with lacquer thinner and then slathered the goop all over it.

 

I really don't know. I really don't care. Bottom line is that I will have no aversion to stripping it for real and oiling it. When I get done I really won't have anything more or better than a run of the mill SG Faded off the rack other than the warm glow of bringing a reprobate back from a bad place. That's what will make it "mine".

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...When I get done I really won't have anything more or better than a run of the mill SG...

 

Awful lotta great records have been made with run of the mill SGs. Les Pauls. Strats and teles. Good luck with it!

 

rct

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Agreed, but as it is (IMHO) it's not attractive. Interesting, perhaps, but not attractive.

 

Perhaps ksd could try something personal himself.....along the lines of this, maybe?..............

 

ClaptonFool.jpg

 

P. I love the paint scheme on this !!!!! How bout this Gibson? Do a re-issue of this! Id buy it!!!

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... this thing has something funky going on with the finish. At first glance it looks like it was refinished with some kind of stain/varnish applied with a string mop. There are runs and blobs everywhere. However (more good news) is that I see no evidence of stripping the original finish or sanding or anything else. They may have simply wiped it with lacquer thinner and then slathered the goop all over it.

...

 

Deco-page, maybe?

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It's pretty much stripped to the bare wood right now. I believe I will be able to salvage the guard and back plate too. The only thing I definitely have to replace us the nut, as the D notch is too deep. I'll make a new bone one. My only dilemma right now is Tru-oil or straight linseed.

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So it's 100% stripped as of this writing. I should have taken pics before I left for work. On the good side, pretty much any gouges were easily sanded out. They were largely confined to the back and appear to have been a result of previous attempts to remove stickers. I was careful and lucky and didn't add to the gouges when I removed the artwork. There's one pretty deep ding in the back of the neck but I don't know whether to try and get it out. It's not bad.

 

So wood being wood, there are inconsistencies in the shading of the mahogany. It's not "blotchy" per se, but it's not an even color, so I'm hesitant to apply any finish yet. I'm still smoothing it and at the 400/600 stage, and it's getting more and more even. I'm probably going to color it. I have a couple cans of MinWax stain here, golden oak and dark walnut. I tried both on a scrap of mahogany. The dark walnut is way too dark and looks like 70s colonial furniture. The golden oak is kinda nice, it comes out a golden brown that is pleasing but also bears no resemblance to any SG I've ever seen, so I'm a little freaked out by that. I don't want it to look like a stain/varnish high school project. Stains often "bring out" too much grain and in my opinion look phony.

 

Still torn about what to finish it with. Duly noted about the potentail for the linseed oil to be sticky. I've never experienced it but any time I've used linseed oil it's been one coat rubbed in, period. I've refinished gun stocks with Tru-Oil and the results have been very nice. Of course yesterday I was at Lowe's and saw Danish Oil, which you can buy tinted 2 or 3 different shades. Nice idea.... tinted oil as opposed to applying stain. As I understand it, "Danish Oil" and what is sold as "Tung Oil Finish" are mainly varnish blends, while Tru-oil is basically linseed oil with some bionic super-hero hardeners.

 

So I have the stain or "let's take a chance on what the natural wood will look like wet" dilemna.

 

And the choice of finishes dilemna.

 

I can NOT make up my mind about anything, EVER.

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I don't have a definite opinion, but regular old brown/natural SG's are a dime a dozen. I don't think sticking to an "origonal" look is really a worthwhile need in this case.

 

I think anything you do to bring out any natural beauty in the wood, however "different" would be the ticket. If you enhance with stain, I only see that as a plus, regardless of inconsistancy.

 

If you do a good job with the finish, it won't look like a "high school shop project". Besides, we could all use a little education sometimes.

 

I say go all out with whatever tricks you can.

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I've finished (or refinished) many in my day but it's mainly been lacquer/clearcoat. I want this to be.... I guess the best way to describe what I want is "rustic but professional" if that makes any sense. I want the same persona as what might have happened to a '65 Lake Placid Blue Strat in 1972 when custom colors were uncool and many got stripped and varnished. I want that early 70s Hippie look but not like it was done in a smoke induced stupor.

 

Here it is mid-strip:

 

2hnw5xi.jpg

 

And as of a few minutes ago:

 

2drtgrr.jpg

16liw5e.jpg

2wom3pg.jpg

nwmpoy.jpg

2q83lvs.jpg

2r2og8w.jpg

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Not sure what it's called. I either read about this in Popular Mechanics once or some old woodworker told me this. Cabinet makers are cognizant of the fact that wood, a natural material, doesn't always stain evenly, or varnish evenly for that matter. This is due to the softer/harder areas within the wood. Cabinet makers also know that your average home owner is a dolt when it comes to wood and don't like a splotchy finish, no matter how hard you try to explain to them the vagaries of natural materials. So... they have developed a 'sealer' that puts a thin coating of super thin wood filler so that the softer, more absorbent areas soak up more sealer than the harder areas. Once this sealer is soaked up, it sets up, then prevents the next coating, of whatever from being over absorbed. The net result is that the now sealed wood takes up the next finish evenly and less splotchily. I think it is called wood grain sealer. Gibson may use this under their transparent finishes. Stripping the finish may remove some or all of the grain sealer.... thus exacerbating the problem.

 

Then again there's always the no-muss, no-fuss, automotive finish from a rattle can.

 

 

Good Luck.

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