Fuller's Southern Jumbo's

[zteverhart]

Does anyone have information about 2003 Fuller's (1943 RI), their specs and approximate street value to date? Do they alter their specs from run to run? Does anyone know how many were part of the 2003 run of 1943 SJ re-issues?

 

Thanks!

[JuanCarlosVejar]

Does anyone have information about 2003 Fuller's (1943 RI), their specs and approximate street value to date? Do they alter their specs from run to run? Does anyone know how many were part of the 2003 run of 1943 SJ re-issues?

 

Thanks!

 

I don't know anything about the 03 1943 RI SJ's but check this video out :

 

 

 

 

JC

[j45nick]

Does anyone have information about 2003 Fuller's (1943 RI), their specs and approximate street value to date? Do they alter their specs from run to run? Does anyone know how many were part of the 2003 run of 1943 SJ re-issues?

 

Thanks!

 

 

Call or email Jeremy Fuller. These are re-issued from time to time, and Jeremy told me that there were some differences in various runs. In particular, the wider Luthier's Choice neck is used on most, but not all of these. He might also know how many were in each run.

 

I have a 2007 Fuller's Re-issue 1943 SJ. It's a great guitar. Value should be similar to that of a J-45 TV of similar vintage, although the SJ is not an all-hide guitar, in order to save costs.

 

Other features they should have are 19-fret bound fretboard, firestripe pickguard, white heel cap, dark centerline back stripe, and belly-down bridge with through-saddle. And, oddly enough, a screwed-in strap endpin. I'm drilling and reaming mine for a conventional set-in tapered endpin, which Bob Colosi made for me to go with the bone bridgepins I added.

 

Here's a picture:

 

[Red 333]

...the Value should be similar to that of a J-45 TV of similar vintage, although the SJ is not an all-hide guitar, in order to save costs.

 

If I'm not mistaken, Nick, the use of hide glue is limited to the tops and necks of the True Vintage line. I think hide glue is used throughout on only the Legend series.

 

Red 333

[zteverhart]

Thanks for the info! I have dispatched a letter. I have a Martin HD-35 right now and I'm looking for another tool to add to the box. The Martin is bright, shiny with really excellent bass and punch mids. I am using a fossilized walrus tusk for saddle.

 

It's loud though -- those 1/4" scalloped braces really let her sing and sometimes I find myself having to sing louder to hear myself. I'm more of a soft tenor and I want something that won't compete with me as much. The SJ looks like a great guitar for that. I really like the woody tone of Gibsons and it should suit my fingerstyle playing a lot; not that the Martin doesn't.

 

Different tools, right?

[J-1854Me]

I had a 2003 Fuller's 43 re-issue and it was a nice guitar. Traded it some time ago towards a vintage Gibson though. I'm not sure what the exact differences are between that model and the Woody SJ, which I also like.

 

Fred

[zteverhart]

From Fullers:

 

"Hi All of the specs have remained the same over the years.

1.77 nut luthiers choice neck. red spruce top, 43 would have the mahogany back and sides.

And Banner head stock."

 

I just wonder if that Red Spruce is actually Adirondack and if the neck is also Mahogany. I need to start buying some premium wood blanks so that when I have time, money and materials I can build my own guitars in the future. My pop has all of the tools.

[zteverhart]

What do people normally string these up with? I used 13's (D'Addario EXP) on my Martin HD-35. What do you recommend? I do a lot of finger style playing and strumming for vocal accompaniment.

 

Thanks!

[j45nick]

From Fullers:

 

"Hi All of the specs have remained the same over the years.

1.77 nut luthiers choice neck. red spruce top, 43 would have the mahogany back and sides.

And Banner head stock."

 

I just wonder if that Red Spruce is actually Adirondack and if the neck is also Mahogany. I need to start buying some premium wood blanks so that when I have time, money and materials I can build my own guitars in the future. My pop has all of the tools.

 

Red spruce is another name for adirondack spruce. Actually, several different species fall into this category, but the terems "red spruce" and "adirondack spruce" are generally used interchangeably. Neck of the Fuller's SJ is also mahogany, as is the case with the majority of Gibson flat tops other than maple/maple guitars.

 

As far as strings go, I would recommend PB 12's (lights) of some type. I am using DR Sunbeam mediums (equivalent of most lights, except for the heavier low E) on my J-45, and am switching to those on the SJ as well.

 

If you are using mediums (13's) on your HD-35, that may explain why it is overwhelming your voice.

 

The 1943 SJ re-issue is an excellent fingerpicking guitar, which is one reason I bought it.

[zteverhart]

Thanks for the recommendations. According to the current owner it's currently strung with 13's so I'll see what those sound like and then experiment with 12s. I like D'Addario EXPs generally PB but I may try 80/20 on this guitar.

 

Any recommendations for bridge pin replacements and/or saddle replacements? Bone is good but I like Fossilized Walrus Ivory in my Martin and it really helps with note separation. Anything to be wary of in terms of dimensions, tapers, etc?

 

How about custom end pin buttons? Angle of ream?

 

Z

[j45nick]

Any recommendations for bridge pin replacements and/or saddle replacements? Bone is good but I like Fossilized Walrus Ivory in my Martin and it really helps with note separation. Anything to be wary of in terms of dimensions, tapers, etc?

 

How about custom end pin buttons? Angle of ream?

 

Z

 

I am using Colosi bone pins in all my flat-tops right now (except in my CA carbon fiber guitar). Also just have standard bone saddles, so I have no experience with more exotic materials.

 

Since I'm drilling and reaming for the endpin, the one I got from Colosi is the standard Martin 5 degree taper. Endpin fit is pretty crucial if you are actually going to use it with a strap, as you don't want that puppy pulling out easily. Colosi warned me that tailblock holes can get badly worn over time, so a "standard" diameter and taper doesn't always do the job. I had to have the tailblock hole bushed slightly (a thin mahogany shaving glued in, then re-reamed)on my old J-45 last year after the orginal black plastic pin disintegrate after 60+ years of abuse.