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Top crack near fretboard on AJ500M


Salfromchatham

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I just bought an Epi AJ 500M off of Ebay, and on arrival the action was high, and I noticed these two parallel cracks, if that's the right word, on the treble top near where the neck joins the body. They are not on the bass side. It is a little bit worse than the picture below shows, and you can feel it with your fingers. The underside of the top does not feel cracked, So I am not sure it is through the finish, although maybe it is?

 

The guitar sounds great, and the intonation is fine. I changed strings, took out a shim the prior owner had under the saddle, thereby lowering the action a hair, as well as tweaked the truss rod. The guitar plays fine. I am not going to bother the dad who listed it on Ebay for his son. He is a nice guy, and I am sure did not know. If I send it back it will cost me a decent penny in shipping, so I am just inclined to make due and fix it if I can.

 

What am I looking at?

Is it serious?

Will it get worse?

What caused it in your opinion?

What would you do about it?

 

Here goes:

 

aj500crack_zpse6ec9ac8.jpg

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Thanks guys. I just bought this actually used sight unseen. It sounds so much richer - even bell-like, than my AJ500R which I bought new a few months ago. I dont care about the looks. She sounds great - I just want to keep her that way. No interest in sending it back to the seller.

 

Could this have been caused by the prior owner dropping it?

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I am not a luthier, but... I had a similar crack on an Alverez, and it wasn't long before the neck block caved in making for one helleva repair. I do not like the look of the binding in line with the crack - if that is off at all, its not good. Just my experience. This might be one of those that might be best if it lived tuned down a half step or two.

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I understand you do not wish to return the guitar, so this doesn't apply in this case, but please be aware that if you purchase something on eBay and do anything to alter the condition, you cannot get your money back if you end up having to file a claim, since the merchandise will no longer be in the condition received. Just for everyone's reference.

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I am not a luthier, but... I had a similar crack on an Alverez, and it wasn't long before the neck block caved in making for one helleva repair. I do not like the look of the binding in line with the crack - if that is off at all, its not good. Just my experience. This might be one of those that might be best if it lived tuned down a half step or two.

 

Glad it's not my J45-TV!

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If it is a crack ,especially one thats not going all the way through, a thinnish piece of wood or cleat can be glued under it ,that will not affect the sound at all in this spot.

 

And so since you didn't ask and I am quite wordy this evening, here is an overview of "even a monkey can fix a crack".

 

*Note. that as you read the following that I am not a Luthier so that means that it takes no real intelligence to fix a crack, that is my real picture on the avatar, Also anything involving refinishing does take some aptitude and skill, so I am not obviously qualified .

 

There are a few ways to tell if it is a crack. Magnify the imperfection and you will tell if it is deeper than the finish. Also you could get a flashlight and turn the lights off, and hold the flash light on the crack area. Obviously if you see light in the guitar then you have a crack. On some cracks you can put your finger on either side of the split and apply very slight pressure alternately and if it's a crack then each side will flex individually . Very slight pressure though.

 

In either case it doesn't take a luthier to fix that crack since it's so easily accessible and it's on the top.

 

Over humidify it, to swell and close the crack as much as possible and cleat it. Like wooden bandages, cleats should prevent it from opening up once the guitar settles back down to normal humidity.

 

Just google repairing spruce guitar top and you should find plenty of suggestions and guidance. The trouble I ran into was finding some pieces of spruce. You can imagine that I needed at least a 6" thn strip to make a dozen cleats. Hobby shops didn't have spruce and home depot pieces were not feasible to use. I asked my Luthier if I could buy a small strip from him and he said "Oh gosh I don't have any lying around" (we have parted ways).

 

So I bought some spruce strips off an ebay luthier, and fashioned my own cleats with a cheap dremel kit I got at Harbor Freight.

 

And in the end I repaired a crack that ran the entire length of my DR500.

 

1) Swelled the guitar up (over humidified it using dampits) , ran a line of titebond and worked it in the crack, then cleated it, holding the cleats on with super magnets (one magnet on top (wax paper to protect finish) and the other inside the guitar and the glued on cleat in-between. A magnetic cleat sandwich.

 

2) Let it set for two days. The first day I was afraid to touch it, so that's the only reason. Took it in the dark and flashlighted it....saw no light and inspected the crack with a magnifying glass. Closed.

 

3) Pulled the magnets off, used a water tipped qtip to remove the outside squeezed line of Titebond (Titebond Original-yellow, is removable with water or steam) and will allow for a redo if you make a mistake. Very forgiving stuff.

 

4) Light buff with a microfiber and smidge of polish I didn't have to redo the satin finish. I think that the alternating mahogany grain color and pattern help to disguise the repaired crack, when looked at.

 

Most people can't readily see the crack unless they are within a couple feet and I point it out.

 

It was a well worth endeavor.

 

Those Masterbilts in tone and playability rival some of the pricier Gibson's. I actual turn to that guitar more than my J45 most of the time; It sounds Great !!! It made me a believer in Masterbilts. So above all enjoy your Masterbilt. [thumbup]

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Looks like a real crack to me.. follows the grain and the binding has shifted. I'd have it looked at. A crack that close to the fretboard extension would concern me because that area should not flex. A crack near the bridge or on the lower bouts.. yeah, they can be expected as the guitar moves.

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