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switching adjustable saddle to TUSQ


jcmartinez

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seems that this is common enough a scenario that graphtech actually has a pre-made saddle for this endeavor:

 

http://www.graphtech.com/product-191-2/

 

has anyone done this? is it as simple and straightforward as it seems, or do i need a luthier or guitar tech's help?

seems like i order the piece, unscrew the old adjustable bridge (keep it, of course, for guitar's value) swap it out and rescrew the pins.

 

am i missing something?

 

thanks.

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The guitar is the queens castle, right – the saddle is one of the guards.

 

Off duty goes mister Wood – in comes mister Tusq. Same uniform, same helmet, same position – same overall purpose, but slightly different perspective/personality.

 

Voila -

 

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seems that this is common enough a scenario that graphtech actually has a pre-made saddle for this endeavor:

 

http://www.graphtech.com/product-191-2/

 

has anyone done this? is it as simple and straightforward as it seems, or do i need a luthier or guitar tech's help?

seems like i order the piece, unscrew the old adjustable bridge (keep it, of course, for guitar's value) swap it out and rescrew the pins.

 

am i missing something?

 

thanks.

 

You're not missing anything. At one time, people would have the whole adjustable ceramic or wood saddle mechanism removed and a stable bridges substituted. Then in recent times, Gibson came up with the concept that there never was anything wrong with the adjustable bridge itself in terms of transmitting sound, rather was wass just that the ceramic or wood saddle in it was not a good transmitter of sound as a tusq or bone. So they reitroduced the adjustable saddle only with a tusq saddle in in it and lo and behold it resolved much of the sound loss issue without having to substitute it with a stable bridge...plus, it satisfied those who always liked the adjustable bridge's sound (which is different than a stable bridge's) and improved upon it. Thus, they began reissuing reissue models with the adjustable bridges they originally had only with a tusq saddle.

 

Somewhere along the way, some companies also came up with a bone saddle that also fits into the adjustable bridge (which some like even more than the tusq saddle). Some companies also issue the replacement tusq saddle for the original adjustable bridge's ceramic or wood saddle.

 

QM aka Jazzman Jeff

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seems that this is common enough a scenario that graphtech actually has a pre-made saddle for this endeavor:

 

http://www.graphtech.com/product-191-2/

 

has anyone done this? is it as simple and straightforward as it seems, or do i need a luthier or guitar tech's help?

seems like i order the piece, unscrew the old adjustable bridge (keep it, of course, for guitar's value) swap it out and rescrew the pins.

 

am i missing something?

 

thanks.

 

I have tried them, on both a 62 Epiphone Texan, and on a 2004 "Macca" reissue Texan. They do need minor adjustments to fit, as do all the other alternatives, but nothing that a round file and sand paper can`t sort out. However I didn`t like the tone that they gave the guitars, and eventually settled on the Bone alternative from:-

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HSB-SG2-Replacement-Adjustable-Bone-Saddle-for-Gibson-Acoustic-guitars-/121040718801?pt=Guitar_Accessories&hash=item1c2e96cbd1

 

These sound better to my ear over the Tusq version, but also need minor adjustment to fit.

 

Steve,

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I have tried them, on both a 62 Epiphone Texan, and on a 2004 "Macca" reissue Texan. They do need minor adjustments to fit, as do all the other alternatives, but nothing that a round file and sand paper can`t sort out. However I didn`t like the tone that they gave the guitars, and eventually settled on the Bone alternative from:-

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HSB-SG2-Replacement-Adjustable-Bone-Saddle-for-Gibson-Acoustic-guitars-/121040718801?pt=Guitar_Accessories&hash=item1c2e96cbd1

 

These sound better to my ear over the Tusq version, but also need minor adjustment to fit.

 

Steve,

 

 

Because of this post, I finally decided to getting around to swapping out the tusq saddle in the adjustable bridge in my 1964 J-45 CS Reissue

with the bone replacement saddle someone on this forum steered me to in June 2012 (from www.philadelphialuthiertools.com item #45T85113N97684801/replacement bone saddle for Gibson Acoustic guitars...no idea if its still in stock there.)

 

Got to admit, though I really liked the tusq saddle in the adjustable bridge (my reason for waiting 6 months to try the bone saddle)...so far I'm finding these past few minutes that the bone version is actually better. Louder, clearer, brighter, more bass. I have a feeling I'm not going to be putting the tusq one back in now that I've put in the bone one.

 

QM aka Jazzman Jeff

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I have tried them, on both a 62 Epiphone Texan, and on a 2004 "Macca" reissue Texan. They do need minor adjustments to fit, as do all the other alternatives, but nothing that a round file and sand paper can`t sort out. However I didn`t like the tone that they gave the guitars, and eventually settled on the Bone alternative from:-

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HSB-SG2-Replacement-Adjustable-Bone-Saddle-for-Gibson-Acoustic-guitars-/121040718801?pt=Guitar_Accessories&hash=item1c2e96cbd1

 

These sound better to my ear over the Tusq version, but also need minor adjustment to fit.

 

Steve,

 

 

thanks thanks to all the replies! what a great forum this is! have already ordered the tusq and will probably buy the bone one as well to play with and experiment. neither of these looks to be 'compensated,' and the guitar guy i took my j50 to seemed to think that once i received the TUSQ piece, it would need to be sanded to 'compensate' it. is he wrong? (i don't think he'd heard of the tusq material before)

that is, i can just drop it in, and sand so that it fits, but don't need to compensate the saddle?

 

thanks again!

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thanks thanks to all the replies! what a great forum this is! have already ordered the tusq and will probably buy the bone one as well to play with and experiment. neither of these looks to be 'compensated,' and the guitar guy i took my j50 to seemed to think that once i received the TUSQ piece, it would need to be sanded to 'compensate' it. is he wrong? (i don't think he'd heard of the tusq material before)

that is, i can just drop it in, and sand so that it fits, but don't need to compensate the saddle?

 

thanks again!

 

 

None of the original adjustable saddles were compensated, to the best of my knowledge. You might need to sand the sides of the new saddle to fit your bridge slot, but you want it to be a fairly tight fit. I would sand the saddle, not the bridge slot, if any fitting is necessary.

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On the bone replacement package I just opened up, it said compensated on it. Looked identical to the tusq saddle so I don't think any further complensating is needed. I think it is just referring to it being slightly rounded on top, like saddles usually are. (Neither were compensated where one string on the top of the saddle is slightly set back.) When I put the bone replacement one in, I just unscrewed the entire assembly, slid the tusk saddle out and slipped the bone saddle in and tben screwed the assembly back in. (First time I put it back in I didn't realize the little metal piece that was under the saddle slipped back in under the saddle and didn't go at the base of the guitar where the assembly screwed it....which made it no longer be adjustable once it was in. Then, I took it out again and put the metal piece where the saddle slipped in to the assembly and then pushed/slipped the saddle over it into the assembly so it held the saddle tightly in...then, the assembly screwed in a lot easier and the adjustability of the bridge functioned again.

 

FYI..I didn't do any sanding or filing on it.

 

A two to five minute easy job.

 

QM aka Jazzman Jeff

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As I see it on the pic from the first thread where you introduced the guitar, the screws are still there.

 

Now maybe you don't want to use those screws (which control the saddle height) and go for the full contact between tusq-saddle and wooden bridge-slot-bottom instead. A logic highly recommended by the consensus, but perhaps also a bit overrated.

 

Anyway – if you intend to get rid of the screws and just drop down the tusq, it's up to you and the actual state of the old J-50 to decide if saddle sanding is needed. You know vintage guitars move a lot over the years and the top can very well have bulged up behind thus half below the bridge. These are factors you have to consider – by trying and trying again*.

 

Another thing is that you'll have to get rid of all the metal there – the long flat plate under the original rosewood saddle (if it's still in place) and, , , , the 2 nuts with 'rings' underneath the bridge, which can only be reached through the sound hole and with a right angled tool – (now don't turn that tool the wrong way there). There'll probably be 2 smaller nuts also, but let them be. Idea is to free the crucial zone from weight so the top-spruce can vibrate as bold as possible.

 

 

*When removing strings several times in a row, put on a capo on 5thfret and work with the pin-end only. The capo keeps the strings fixed and ready.

Needless to say that everything original removed from the Gibson must be treasured in a little box.

 

All in all the ideal Christmas ~ New Year employment.

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As I see it on the pic from the first thread where you introduced the guitar, the screws are still there.

 

Now maybe you don't want to use those screws (which control the saddle height) and go for the full contact between tusq-saddle and wooden bridge-slot-bottom instead. A logic highly recommended by the consensus, but perhaps also a bit overrated.

 

Anyway – if you intend to get rid of the screws and just drop down the tusq, it's up to you and the actual state of the old J-50 to decide if saddle sanding is needed. You know vintage guitars move a lot over the years and the top can very well have bulged up behind thus half below the bridge. These are factors you have to consider – by trying and trying again*.

 

Another thing is that you'll have to get rid of all the metal there – the long flat plate under the original rosewood saddle (if it's still in place) and, , , , the 2 nuts with 'rings' underneath the bridge, which can only be reached through the sound hole and with a right angled tool – (now don't turn that tool the wrong way there). There'll probably be 2 smaller nuts also, but let them be. Idea is to free the crucial zone from weight so the top-spruce can vibrate as bold as possible.

 

 

*When removing strings maybe several times in a row, put on a capo on 5thfret and work with the pin-end only. The capo keeps the strings fixed and ready.

 

All in all the ideal Christmas ~ New Year employment.

 

In case you are a bit mystified by Em7's description of the parts of the adjusting saddle, here they are all laid out, minus the thin flat piece of spring steel that originally went just under the rosewood saddle body, as I recall. This is a 1968 J-45 bridge assembly, but they are all pretty much the same.

 

boneadjustable.jpg

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In case you are a bit mystified by Em7's description of the parts of the adjusting saddle, , , , the picture above - though not showing the long flat plate and the small nuts - comes as the cavalry in a John Ford movie - thanks.

 

 

 

(and don't mind the hungry mouse)

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In case you are a bit mystified by Em7's description of the parts of the adjusting saddle, , , , the picture above comes as the cavalry in a John Ford movie - thanks.

 

 

 

(and don't mind the hungry mouse)

 

Obviously a plywood-eating mouse......

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  • 4 years later...

I just switched the rosewood saddle from a '68 Epiphone Eldorado for Tusq.

No sanding needed. Well pleased with the result. Clearer tone all round.

Thanks to this Forum.

Nice upgrade! When you get a chance, you might consider another upgrade to bone - well worth it!

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  • 3 weeks later...

If it makes ya happy, that's the main goal👍

Well I cracked & put a Tusq saddle in the '62 Frontier. Some sanding required, but again happy with the result. Seemed to give those old guitars a bit of a boost.

Just leaves the Bard 12-string.

Hmmm perhaps leave well alone.

For now.

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  • 11 months later...

Hello,

Replying to this old thread here because I'm about to experiment with my '67 Hummingbird and try some different types of ADJ saddles. I have a ceramic that was installed when I bought and I also have an original rosewood, a philadelphia Luthier Bone version, and a tusq version is on the way right now as well from graphtech.

 

I recently bought and sold a 1969 J 45 with a rosewood bridge and was surprised how different it sounded than my hummingbird despite a lot of similarities in the construction and shape.

 

My question is this: When installing these saddles do you not need to file slots for the strings? I planned on filing slots but in reading the thread it sounds like many people didn't do that. The bone version has no slots at all, not sure about the Tusq as it is still in the mail. Looking forward to seeing how the guitar responds to the various saddles!

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Hello,

Replying to this old thread here because I'm about to experiment with my '67 Hummingbird and try some different types of ADJ saddles. I have a ceramic that was installed when I bought and I also have an original rosewood, a philadelphia Luthier Bone version, and a tusq version is on the way right now as well from graphtech.

 

I recently bought and sold a 1969 J 45 with a rosewood bridge and was surprised how different it sounded than my hummingbird despite a lot of similarities in the construction and shape.

 

My question is this: When installing these saddles do you not need to file slots for the strings? I planned on filing slots but in reading the thread it sounds like many people didn't do that. The bone version has no slots at all, not sure about the Tusq as it is still in the mail. Looking forward to seeing how the guitar responds to the various saddles!

 

You’ll enjoy the Tusq saddle, I have definitely found it an improvement in all the ADJ guitars I’ve put one in.

 

No need to file slots for the strings-The only reason your RW saddle has them is through decades of wear, these weren’t slotted originally when new. The strings will ring better on a non-slotted saddle.

 

Let us know how you get on!

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Do not file slots. That was done in the past by people trying to lower their guitar's action. They came factory new unslotted. The presence of slots usually indicates either a more serious problem (neck reset needed, for example) somewhere or tampering by someone who wanted an electric guitar action on their acoustic and was ignorant enough to believe that it could work properly that way.

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You’ll enjoy the Tusq saddle, I have definitely found it an improvement in all the ADJ guitars I’ve put one in.

 

No need to file slots for the strings-The only reason your RW saddle has them is through decades of wear, these weren’t slotted originally when new. The strings will ring better on a non-slotted saddle.

 

Let us know how you get on!

 

Thanks, I'm glad I checked! I'm going to try all the various saddles out this week and I'll let you know what I decide on.

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Do not file slots. That was done in the past by people trying to lower their guitar's action. They came factory new unslotted. The presence of slots usually indicates either a more serious problem (neck reset needed, for example) somewhere or tampering by someone who wanted an electric guitar action on their acoustic and was ignorant enough to believe that it could work properly that way.

 

Thanks, great to know!

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