DR500MCE (bridge & nut size)?

[Crunch Enhancer]

Hey guys, Merry Christmas! This is my first post on this forum.

 

For Christmas I was given a new DR500MCE and have been looking at upgrading the bridge pins, saddle & nut as I take it to get setup at my local tech I go to.

I'm having trouble determining which exact saddle and nut to replace the OEM units with. (the sizings are throwing me off) I've read a lot of people replace these but they never go into detail on what size they used.

 

http://www.graphtech.com/products.html?SubCategoryID=1 Saddles

 

http://www.graphtech.com/products.html?SubCategoryID=4 Nuts

 

The bridge pins I already figured out on which to get.

Thanks for any help and happy holidays!

[gta05]

The new saddle. will you replace it by a compensate one?

[Crunch Enhancer]

The new saddle. will you replace it by a compensate one?

 

A compensated TUSQ one from graphtech is what I have been looking at, yes.

[milod]

I know this is a bit of a copout, but I'd wait and talk with the luthier - assuming he's worth taking the guitar to in the first place.

 

My reasoning: How do you play, what string gauge and separation do you prefer; are you gentle or violent with the strings... etc., etc.

 

The luthier may choose to mess with uncut nut and saddle material and match it to you better than a catalog.

 

Just a thought.

 

m

[Crunch Enhancer]

I know this is a bit of a copout, but I'd wait and talk with the luthier - assuming he's worth taking the guitar to in the first place.

 

My reasoning: How do you play, what string gauge and separation do you prefer; are you gentle or violent with the strings... etc., etc.

 

The luthier may choose to mess with uncut nut and saddle material and match it to you better than a catalog.

 

Just a thought.

 

m

 

Thanks, I understand that but I would still like to know which compensated saddle and nut would be a direct swap right in.

[milod]

Almost regardless of pre-sized material, in practice you and/or the luthier will have to get the proper height of the strings and a final fitting. That means doing some stock removal on the bottom of both a nut and bridge piece.

 

The reason I made my suggestion is that if you're quite gentle in playing, you and a luthier may determine that the nut, especially, might be cut with string width just a tad wider than stock. Or the reverse. Etc.

 

But one pays the money and takes one's choice.

 

m

[Crunch Enhancer]

Almost regardless of pre-sized material, in practice you and/or the luthier will have to get the proper height of the strings and a final fitting. That means doing some stock removal on the bottom of both a nut and bridge piece.

 

The reason I made my suggestion is that if you're quite gentle in playing, you and a luthier may determine that the nut, especially, might be cut with string width just a tad wider than stock. Or the reverse. Etc.

 

But one pays the money and takes one's choice.

 

m

 

Thanks for the reply.

 

I am not an aggressive player by any means on an acoustic. I have been playing electric here and there since 1997 and playing daily since 2003 and this year finally bought my first acoustic. (I've played others, just never actually had my own). I just wanted to upgrade the stock stuff to a set of tusq, have it setup with an action that isnt so crazy high and add a new set of strings and call it a day. I just couldn't see dropping 1,500 on a martin that I would barely play!

[diverden]

My early Masterbilt AJ500 came with "B" Compensated saddle.

[milod]

Crunch...

 

Yeah... I'm a very light fingerpicker.

 

I use 9-42s (DR Zebra) on my AE guitars so volume isn't a consideration other than simple dynamics at times. That's the same gauge I use on my electrics. (Except for one that has worn 8-38 since purchased in the mid 1970s.)

 

OTOH, these 9-42 are much lighter strings than typically used on an acoustic, so some might suggest a new nut on each cut appropriately for the non-wound G. I'd do that next week were I in a more urban area where one might find a luthier who is far more skilled and confident about doing such than I am.

 

That's another reason why I made the suggestion. Some acoustic guys really like much heavier strings than I do - and guitars are more or less factory-made for heavier strings than I use. That makes the setup and, at least in theory, a proper cut on the nut, somewhat more critical.

 

m

[GuitarLight]

I also bought a new DR500MCE about 6 months ago. I kept the bone nut and saddle as is. It did however have a rather dark sound..rich...but a tad too dark for me...the tusk pins I put in made a considerable difference in opening it up and clarifying it, and so i kept the bone nut and saddle, fearing that it might become to bright or brash with tusk, as the tusk pins alone made a large difference. Just a thought for you. Good luck.

[Crunch Enhancer]

Crunch...

 

Yeah... I'm a very light fingerpicker.

 

I use 9-42s (DR Zebra) on my AE guitars so volume isn't a consideration other than simple dynamics at times. That's the same gauge I use on my electrics. (Except for one that has worn 8-38 since purchased in the mid 1970s.)

 

OTOH, these 9-42 are much lighter strings than typically used on an acoustic, so some might suggest a new nut on each cut appropriately for the non-wound G. I'd do that next week were I in a more urban area where one might find a luthier who is far more skilled and confident about doing such than I am.

 

That's another reason why I made the suggestion. Some acoustic guys really like much heavier strings than I do - and guitars are more or less factory-made for heavier strings than I use. That makes the setup and, at least in theory, a proper cut on the nut, somewhat more critical.

 

m

 

What strings in the medium gauge would you recommend? I might have this guitar setup and would prefer to use some quality strings.

 

I usually use 9's on my metal style guitars

10's on my stratocasters

11's on my les paul

 

I prefer ernie ball if brand matters in this. I have never purchased acoustic strings so I dont even know what gauge I have nor what I should look for!

 

Crunch

[milod]

Okay...

 

In one way I don't really have a specific recommendation. That's for several reasons. First, what do you consider "medium?" That's kinda subjective. Personally I figure 10-12 is "medium" but 12s on the "medium-heavy" side.

 

Ernie has some 10-52 with a plain G.

 

Again, I think it's what you wanna do and what you're comfortable with. Regardless it's likely to be a higher action than your electrics.

 

Also, if you use a capo a lot, you probably can get by with 12s or whatever... if you're relatively gentle.

 

I guess I'd recommend starting with, say, some Ernies in 10-48 (or 52) and figure that for 5 bucks a set your first half dozen string changes will be experimental... You've gotta find what's right for you and the technique you'll find changing a bit on an acoustic...

 

m

[milod]

Joe...

 

I use 9s on a cupla my AE guitars...

 

Ain't had intonation problems as far up the neck as my li'l fingers will go when capoed. Haven't taken a scope to it, but...

 

There's no reason to have more intonation problems with a capo than barre chords. Parlor guitars traditionally used much lighter strings than the big archtops and flattops, too.

 

m

[GuitarLight]

On my MB DR500MCE I use only light guage...80/20 Elixir Nanoweb strings. This is a dark sounding guitar, and I found Martin 80/20 to be too dark sounding...Elixirs 80/20 light --(.12-.53) nanowebs seemed just right, combined with new tusk pins, opened it up but still kept the creamy mahogany sound it was designed to make so well.

[RaysEpiphone]

12's in an acoustic string are a light(er) gauge. I'd say that if you like a medium gauge on your electric then your going to want at least a medium gauge or heaver on an acoustic. I alway's use nothing lighter than a 10 gauge on my electric, I used to use the light gauge 12's by John Pearse for acoustic but I've not been happy with there quality of late so I switched to Martin 80/20 12's (Marquis) 2 years ago and have been happy. The Pearse strings feel heaver then the normal light gauge's I've tried of many other brand's.