soundjunkie Posted February 12, 2013 Share Posted February 12, 2013 I recently bought a stunning natural ES-135 but after restringing it the other day, noticed that one of the studs pulled right out and the other was not drilled quite perfectly straight (I can see this as the flat part of the post does not rest squarely on the top - nothing crazy though). I don't notice any sonic issues, but is there a fix for this or leave it alone? The 135 has the balsa center block. Issue or non-issue with this? Thankyou Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
retrorod Posted February 12, 2013 Share Posted February 12, 2013 A picture or two would help....for me at least, to make a comment! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stein Posted February 12, 2013 Share Posted February 12, 2013 I'm not quite sure I understand as well. Pics would be handy, and if not possible, a better description at least. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stein Posted February 12, 2013 Share Posted February 12, 2013 I'm not quite sure I understand as well. Pics would be handy, and if not possible, a better description at least. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kidblast Posted February 13, 2013 Share Posted February 13, 2013 I recently bought a stunning natural ES-135 but after restringing it the other day, noticed that one of the studs pulled right out and the other was not drilled quite perfectly straight (I can see this as the flat part of the post does not rest squarely on the top - nothing crazy though). I don't notice any sonic issues, but is there a fix for this or leave it alone? The 135 has the balsa center block. Issue or non-issue with this? Thankyou Yea, Pictures will help. I have a Tabaco sunburst 135 w/a bigsgy lovely guitars Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soundjunkie Posted February 13, 2013 Author Share Posted February 13, 2013 I'm not quite sure I understand as well. Pics would be handy, and if not possible, a better description at least. The guitar is my avatar. Trapeze with standard Gibson adjustomatic bridge. OK .... this involves the two bridge posts which are set into holes in the top of the guitar. Pics aren't necessary. You understand how TOM bridges are connected to the guitar...right? One of the posts pulled right out of the gutar as I was removing the bridge to clean. It was loosely fitting in the hole. The other post stayed in the guitar, but I noticed the flat part of the post which is supposed to seat flat against the face of the guitar was not seated flush with the face of the guitar. In other words, the guy holding the drill or the drill press did not drill the hole perfectly vertical. I am assuming that they had to make one hole larger so that the bridge would fit, since one post was drilled non-vertical. Some times I think guitar makers do not realize they are building a precision tool. I've sent back three RIC's for sloppy tuning peg dilled holes. Their reply? It's handmade and not perfect. WTH!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stein Posted February 13, 2013 Share Posted February 13, 2013 I don't remember what KIND of TOM bridges these came with. The ABR type is the thinner, vintage type, and that has only just the two threaded post that go directctly into the wood. The other type, (Nashville or wide travel- pretty standard stuff sinse the 70's) has bushings that the post thread into, similar to the bushings a stop bar would have (Obviously not the same bushings, but same principle). A little confusion here because you mention "not flat with the body"...don't know what that means. Naturally, a bushing might not be flat with the body because it's a carved top, and a post? Flat part? Anyway, before we go further, if this is a NEW guitar, you need to have it fixed or looked at. If it's used, really this kind of thing problably requires a hands on inspection, pics MAY substitute for that, but this isn't a type of "fix it this way" internet thing. What I can say about the subject is, if the are bushings, they really should not come out. Need to be glued and glued RIGHT, so the post thread properly. As for the ABR type that has the post directly into the wood, this actually isn't a new problem. It's been an issue on some guitars sinse way back, mainly because the post take a beating from the pressures back and forth on the bridge, especially if there is a trem involved. But, even string bending and regular tuning puts wear if a lot less. Also, obviosly, adjusting the bridge might make them turn in the wood rather than the thumbwheels if you aren't paying attention. As a sort of aftermarket thing, there are places that make longer ones, for going deeper into the wood. Anyway, hopefully you can see why a hands on inspection is needed to say one way or the other. a few words can not descibe how severe the problem is, or what the fix would be, or if there is a problem at all. Pics might not even do it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soundjunkie Posted February 14, 2013 Author Share Posted February 14, 2013 I don't remember what KIND of TOM bridges these came with. The ABR type is the thinner, vintage type, and that has only just the two threaded post that go directctly into the wood. The other type, (Nashville or wide travel- pretty standard stuff sinse the 70's) has bushings that the post thread into, similar to the bushings a stop bar would have (Obviously not the same bushings, but same principle). A little confusion here because you mention "not flat with the body"...don't know what that means. Naturally, a bushing might not be flat with the body because it's a carved top, and a post? Flat part? Anyway, before we go further, if this is a NEW guitar, you need to have it fixed or looked at. If it's used, really this kind of thing problably requires a hands on inspection, pics MAY substitute for that, but this isn't a type of "fix it this way" internet thing. What I can say about the subject is, if the are bushings, they really should not come out. Need to be glued and glued RIGHT, so the post thread properly. As for the ABR type that has the post directly into the wood, this actually isn't a new problem. It's been an issue on some guitars sinse way back, mainly because the post take a beating from the pressures back and forth on the bridge, especially if there is a trem involved. But, even string bending and regular tuning puts wear if a lot less. Also, obviosly, adjusting the bridge might make them turn in the wood rather than the thumbwheels if you aren't paying attention. As a sort of aftermarket thing, there are places that make longer ones, for going deeper into the wood. Anyway, hopefully you can see why a hands on inspection is needed to say one way or the other. a few words can not descibe how severe the problem is, or what the fix would be, or if there is a problem at all. Pics might not even do it. Thanks... the guitar is a 2001 ES-135 with trapeze and bridge is the Nashville with bushing. The string pressure keeps everything in place, so I'm assuming it isn't a big deal, but I don't feel comfortable with a sloppy fitting bushing. Perhaps I can find an aftermarket bushing that goes deeper and is slightly larger in diameter, or have Callaham make one? Is'nt the Nashville bridge wider, allowing more saddle travel? Sorry for my ignorance on bridges? I don't know the difference between ABR-1 or Nashville. I DO know it isn't the vintage type skinny threaded post with no bushing for certain. I want the best for my Gibson. Love this guitar! Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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