Bill Moore
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Posts
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Posts posted by Bill Moore
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Just noticed this thread, there are replacement caps available.
https://www.amplifiedparts.com/products/capacitor-ce-mfg-160v-334747-f-electrolytic
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I would use a 1A slow blow.
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Is the "Hum Adjust" something like the Silverface Fenders used to balance voltage between the power tubes?
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As one familiar with the 2 prong systems, I have an old 60's amp that I still play, but "someday" I'll convert it to a grounded plug!
The drill is, hold guitar and brush back of hand across mic, get a tingle, reverse the plug!
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I sure would be worried trying to fire it up without checking the power supply capacitors! If they are original, you could easily lose the PT!
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The condition is rough, and if it doesn't work?
That old of an amp really needs maintenance, and I would be hesitant to power it up without someone checking it out first. It may or not need tubes, but P/S caps for sure!
Reverb price guide:
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Measure the distance between the holes. in your amp.
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There is a selection here, but I didn't see any brass handle mounts.
https://www.tubesandmore.com/products/amplifier_parts_0?filters=974a277c276a974
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I built my 5E3 initially using a JBL D-120, it sounded glorious, overdrive as a 5E3 will do, but it was really heavy! I installed a Weber 12A125A which I think sounds almost as good, but is a lot lighter!
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Peter, if it sounds good don't change it! You need to worry about having too little reserve, not too much. I can attest that having an 18W Marshall plugged into a Marshall 4-12 cab with Celestions is a really glorious sound!
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Never seen them before, but found this:
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Check these out, if lucky one is the same, and you just need to replace the cap.
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I just wonder, WHY?
I bought a speaker cab from a fellow a few years ago that had staples holding the tolex inside the cab. After a year, I noticed wrinkles on the top and sides, I'll get around to recovering it someday, (but I'll use adhesive!)
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I installed Gibson hardware on my Epi G 400 by using metric to US adjustable posts. I think I found them at Philadelphia Luthiers.
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Isn't is interesting that the amp has no volume control for instrument? I assume the knob on the pickup is a volume.
In the early days, one would play your instrument and sing through the same amp. (We did it in the 60's before PA's were common!)
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You could add, (parallel), another, (non switching) jack, to the existing one. You may be fine with that, if the signal level is correct for your board.
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Looking at the schematic, it appears that the "line out" jack opens the circuit between the pre amp, and the input to the phase inverter tube. There should be little, or no signal to the power amp when a plug is inserted.
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I agree to the added inputs, the early GA-5 (Les Paul Junior), had a square cutout in the rear. This one is a GA-5 version 1, 1958-1962, and had 2 boards on the rear.
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There are a lot of info on the internet about these amps, especially early model!
There is a fellow in Texas that uses the chassis, and iron to build early style Fender amps. They look good!
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I would begin by replacing the P/S caps, they have to be original!
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I have a 56 Les Paul GA40T that I like a lot. It is clean, but you may dirty it up with whatever pedals you like. The sound is not "F" clean, but a clean all it's own, probably due to the 5879 pre tubes. I never heard it with an original speaker, but I installed a Weber alnico, which should be close to the old Jensen P12's. Low power for sure, but great to take to informal jams.
Gibson GA-20RVT
in Gibson Amplifiers
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Looking at the schematic, the 2M bass pots are in parallel with the caps C4, and C17.