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About Shtew

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  • Birthday 05/12/1957

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    Warren MI
  1. Shtew

    ZT3 Setup Issue

    Hi, Thanx for the reply. Now...with what you've said, it begins to make some sense to me...! As you said, with the older TT's, one could see which position you were in, and with the TT3, nada...no visual indication, or in the time I spent with it, ya can't even feel just where you are position wise...it's really a bit of a guess. And, initially, it wouldn't even go to the F# setting...my customer had futzed with things so much...I had to really play around with the jaws screws just to get it to go to F#...it was as if there was some kind of limiting screw or some such that limited the overall travel of the bridge. And I had to really crank on the tuners & pitch wheel at the middle position to even get it to standard pitch in the first place. Now, I didn't pull the unit out of the guitar to check...but...maybe there's some kind of 'under the hood" adjustment that was out-of-whack from the start limiting the overall range UP, so that position 5 would not be engaged...? Has anyone done that [pulled the bridge off] to see...? All this being said...then WHY would it have adjusted properly from up to F# and down to D...? From what you're explaining, it does make sense...if it was indeed position F, and via the tuners it was actually cranked up to F#, that would indeed solve the mystery anyway...but now I'm curious as to why F# position never latched as it's supposed to...there must be something internal that's amiss. Your suggestion of putting it into Eb and retuning...but how could you even do that, as if it was in the Eb position, it would be transposed & fixed, not floating, yes...? Anyways...he's gonna play with it, just to make sure he digs the normal setup of it, and he'll be bringing a couple other items in for work...I'll tell him if he'd like to bring it back, and I'll dive into it internally to see WTF the deal is. "It's the suspense that gets me!" Thanx for your help! Shtew
  2. Shtew

    ZT3 Setup Issue

    Hi, I really don't believe so. I went through the procedure 4 times, and have done setups on the previous versions of TT's. Am very familiar with the importance of being in the mid position for the standard & fixed tunings . I think I wouldv'e caught that, as I was going back & forth from F# to D to set the "jaws". Tho...at this point, I guess anything is possible...;-) Customer has picked up the gtr now, and is OK with it, as he has no need to go up that far. Tho for my own peace of mind, I would like to know just what the deal is, in case another one comes in the shop... Shtew
  3. Shtew

    ZT3 Setup Issue

    Hi, Yup...as previously mentioned, middle position #3 floating & locking has been observed, initially and in the last step of the Trem adjustment procedure. Official Steinberger TT Calibrated strings .010-.046 made in China. Results as mentioned previously. Shtew
  4. Shtew

    ZT3 Setup Issue

    Hi, Hmmm...interesting theory...I'll check into that... Shtew
  5. Shtew

    ZT3 Setup Issue

    Hi, Well...that's what I've settled with..except that...it WON'T go two notches up to F#, only one, to F...but it will go an extra notch down to C#... The entire Trem assembly has shifted 1/2 step down...it's crazy! Shtew
  6. Shtew

    ZT3 Setup Issue

    Hi, Nope... I'm first putting the bridge in the locked middle position, tuning to standard, then put the bridge in the floating/middle position, re-tuning via the wheel in the back, then double checking that the two are the same/adjust as needed...at standard pitch, EADGBE Then go through the set up as in a regular guitar. Then, dble check fixed & floatng/middle positons again at EADGBE standard, & slightly tweak it...as neck, action, intonation changes it slightly like any guitar. Then, do the trem adjustment procedure exactly as per the video...F# [high position,where Ned says to retune] & D [low position, where you adjust the claws]. When it's done & I get back at either the locked or middle/floating position, it's then up a half step, "F standard'...they're both the same, within a cent or so. Retune those two positions again to standard EADGBE, and then the Trem range is at F [high position] & C# [low position] And then I count the grey hairs that have fallen out of my head and landed on my bench...sigh...WTF!?! & other assorted cussing...sigh... Shtew
  7. Shtew

    ZT3 Setup Issue

    Hi, Thanx for the reply. OK...I'll try to explain again... I get the guitar tuned to standard pitch, with the bridge in the fixed position. Adjust neck, action, intonation. I put the trem into the floating position, and adjust the wheel on the back so that it's the same pitch in the fixed and floating positions. Then, I go through the procedure of adjusting the trem so that it's correct from the high position F# to the low position D. Then when returning to the locked or the floating position, the guitar is now approx 1/2 step up from standard E tuning, at F. I retune the fixed & floating positions again, via the tuners & the wheel, The Trem range is now F at the high position and C# at the low position, with it tuned to standard E. Rinse & Repeat...same thing consistantly...it will NOT achieve the range of F# to D at standard pitch, it ends up as F to C#. I don't get it...WHAT am I missing or doing wrong...??? Shtew
  8. Hi Folks, Thanx for letting me post here! I've got an issue with a ZT3 I'm in the process of getting it set up. Hopefully someone can offer a solution. Info: I'm a "seasoned" guitar technician/luthier with over 25 years experience. I've worked on a few of the previous versions of Steinberger Trans Trem models, but this is my first exposure to the ZT3. It's brand new, tho the customer futz with it a bit prior to bringing it into my shop. Yes, I'm using the "calibrated" official Steinberger strings made in China....gauged .010-.046 Standard A440 pitch Yes, I've watched Ned's video...about 6 times...[and didn't even fall asleep...man, he is a dull guy...;-) ] Yes, I've got the fabulous "manual" for this guitar. The Issue: No matter what I do, I cannot get the range of the vibrato to be correct...from F sharp at the highest position to D at the lowest position...it ends up about a half step up from standard [F as opposed to E] when you get back to the fixed or the "idle" position. Retuning to standard pitch yields F at the highest position and C sharp at the lowest position. In other words...it's either live with that range of positions tuned to standard, of tune to F in order to acheive the F sharp to D positions. I've done this 4 times now, and it's repeatable every time. The bridge works fine in either tuning...staying in tune to itself...and I don't feel or experience anything sticking or slipping. I've not taken the bridge off...yet...to see if something's amiss. Is there something that I'm missing...? This is getting really aggravating and time consuming...nothing quite as much fun as tuning a guitar several hundred times...I can feel hair folicles falling out and many others turning grey..er...;-) Any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated! Best Regards, Shtew http://stewsguitarworks.com/sgw.htm
  9. My '90 & '91 V's are chunkier [the '90 is thickest] than my '05 VII and my '07 V Flame Maple [which feel the same]...
  10. I've got one of those too...awesome 'Bird, eh? Mine's stock...but...in a couple of my other 'Birds I've got Sey Dunc SM-3 pups...they're wonderful!
  11. Hi, I've got that same guitar...an '05 Firebird VII in Cherry...bought it used in '06. It's become my favorite gtr in my 30 something collection, and I've got 3 other 'Birds in it...a '90 V, a '91 V set up for slide, and an '07 V Flame maple. I felt that the stock Gibson 3 pup wiring limited it, so I did some re-wiring, which really made it more versatile...I removed the middle pup from the selector switch, wired it to one of the Tone pots as a Volume right to the out jack, and made the other Tone pot the master Tone control...now any pup combo can be had. I lusted after a VII for years, and I finally got one. I will NEVER sell this guitar, unless I'm unable to play any longer. It's a Strat meets SG on steroids...sustain for days, warm, twangy, and it can just scream too! It's a keeper! Keep looking around the web...they're out there...you'll find one!
  12. Shtew

    slash models

    So...which one comes with the wig and the hat...?
  13. While a truss rod adjustment CAN affect the action, it isn't necessarily the right approach to adjust the action. The truss rod adjusts the straightness of the neck to counteract string tension as well as the relative humidity content, and there needs to be a slight amount of "relief" to allow for string movement, but this is somewhat adjustable per one's own playing style. If you play hard, you may need more relief than one who plays lighter, or in a different style, IE a blues rocker vs jazz player. When changing string gauges and/or doing a set up, the order of events in adjusting is: 1. neck truss rod adjustment with desired relief 2. nut slots 3. saddle slots & action at the bridge 4. intonation 5. pickups If you don't know what you're doing, then take it to someone who does. It's not hard to learn how, but you can seriously cause some damage and/or achieve poor results. Hope that helps! SS <http://www.stewsguitarworks.com/>
  14. Hmmm...a skilled shredder vs some clown that paints his face and puts a KFC bucket on his head... What was the question again...?
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