gary6839

Thanks for responding to this. How did your CA work when staining. Any tips on stain dilution to match to the way the wood takes the stain in? I had trouble in my previous attempt to get the wood to take (water based stain at the time) absorb the stain but the area where the glue was got really dark making it very visible. I'm trying to figure out a way to avoid this. I don't know if the fillers perform like the wood regarding stain absorption or if I need to take precautions when staining whether it's CA or filler. Thanks again for the response Gary

A little more info. It's the Tobacco Sunburst version with what looks like to me is a cherry red back. Maple neck with mahogany inserts

Hello All, I was hoping to get some advice on finishing a repair on an Epiphone Sheraton that was started several years ago. A new puppy (bad dog..) knocked over the guitar that was on a stand where it landed hard on a wood floor partially splitting but not separating the headstock from the neck. Initially, I was able to glue the neck together with titebond by sitting it on a table, injecting the glue and applying a weight to the headstock where it sat for weeks. It has played fine since and I can make truss rod adjustments with it but I'd like to get some advice on getting the cherry stain to match and apply a lacquer. I still have a hairline crack that I can't sand out and was planning on using color tone clear grain filler to fill and sand the crack. This is where I'm a bit stuck. It looks like there may be 2 stains used in this process. During the sanding process, I can see the bare wood and 2 distinct colors. Has anybody matched this stain/laquer with success? I was planning on purchasing a cherry red alcohol stain from Stew Mac and finishing with an aged clear spray laquer but before I pull the trigger, I'd like to be sure that there isn't another stain that I'm missing. Any advice from you all would be greatly appreciated!!