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Everything posted by bluefoxicy

  1. It occurs to me a 1:1 PT at 50VA costs only $10, while the PT on the Valve Jr costs $35-ish. With about $5 of circuitry, I can build an adjustable boost converter to get 170VDC-550VDC out. I figure $7-$8 will let me pull 5V-15VDC (filament) and 170V-550VDC (tubes), with the high-voltage followed by your standard power resistor layout, unless you want to spend $2.50 on a buck converter for each following stage (the capacitor becomes a filter capacitor). Drop in the $10 transformer and you've got a $20 PSU rather than the $45 one (PT + resistors) everyone uses. Components can be sized for like 300W so you can use a 300VA transformer for ~150W output. You CANNOT run a rectifier tube from the same transformer winding. It won't work. You'll short your amp out. Does that sound like a good piece for a DIY kit? I also want to build an OTL stage for the Valve Jr, but that's not generic. I'd need a different OTL stage for each type of amp, although I guess adjustable impedance matching would let me use the same stage on the same layout. Together that cuts about $50 off the DIY, I think?
  2. You misunderstand. I f@*%ing hate solid state drive. It's a novelty item: I want to play Rock You like a Hurricane, I set my Vox DAW5 to High Gain 2, and play. Tube drive is fun, it's responsive. I can actually play La Grange, but with my Vox or a pedal I'm flipping switches or just dealing with the drive. With the VJ, volume up too loud, I can fingerpick the clean parts (they're VERY warm) and then move my thumb to slide the pick up into my fingers and WHAM, DISTORTION. Don't even need to roll the volume knob on my guitar. Why would I buy a tube amp and then put the "Drive" switch from a solid state amp in my pedal chain? I already have an amp with 12 different modes of that built in.
  3. http://guitars.musiciansfriend.com/product/Blackheart-Killer-Ant-BH1H-1W-Tube-Guitar-Amp-Head?sku=488006 This thing. I have a Vox DAW5 solid state but I'm tiring of it quickly and I want a tube amp again. My tube amp is LOUD 5W Epiphone VJ, which is a nice amp but really... something quieter at gain volumes would be nice. I'd actually like a stock VJ V3 or current (is there a V4 yet?) for clean tones, but when that volume goes up to get gain... too loud. I'm going to see if my local Guitar Center has one... I haven't decided if it's feasible to carry a VJ to practice with my teacher yet, I could do VJ through 12 inches.
  4. Yeah I shut it down ages ago. haha this thread got tacked onto the vjr mod thread for some reason.
  5. Yow! My apartment has holes in the wall, carpet, was dirty when I moved in, and the last apartment I was in ate itself (plumbing issue). Naturally, I am well prepared to move into a foreclosure home and try to do the magical dream of a 5% interest rate and a $1000/mo 15 year loan ($180,000) for what amounts to a $100,000 house. Maybe I should get an adjustable rate mortgage and try to get 3% going in; it'll hold for a year and then prop up by 1%, then I could refinance a fixed rate at 4.11% or 5.00%... R=3% T=1 P=100,000: 3045 R=5% T=1 P=100,000: 5127 So in 1 year I could save $2100, which I'll use to pay down the loan right? Let's see what that $2100 would do if my loan was fixed 5%, looking at total cost rather than interest: R=5% T=15 P=100,000: $211,700 R=5% T=15 P=97,900: $207,254 R=5% T=15 P=95,000: $201,115 So saves me $4446. Technically, I write this stuff off my income instead, so the savings are more like that number * 0.30; however, notice dropping a $5,000 closer on a $100,000 house for 15 years? Saves over $10,000? The interest for the first month would be $417, then there's interest on that, then on that, etc; paying more than my given payments is majorly significant, since after the first year I have about $5000 more in than I started, so I pay a $105,000 loan over 14 years now.... I'd rather wind up in something barely livable and spend $30k and lots of sweat and blood to make it a decent home, than buy something for $250k and wind up spending $1,120,422 over a 30 year 5% mortgage. Yes I said a million dollars. Do you realize how many sports cars, guitars, and amps I could buy for a million dollars? (Formula: P * e^(R * T) = value)
  6. So after so much playing with amps, building amps, modding out the VJ, I want... http://www.prsguitars.com/prs30/index.html This. Thoughts?
  7. OUCH! "Acoustics" != "Amps and Accessories" ... mods?
  8. This should make the VJR louder, right?
  9. I own a guitar that's easy to play, holds its tune for like a month (says the electronic tuner), and has great tone and sustain. I let other people play it and they're blown away because it's better than their guitars. I'll play the PRS at Guitar Center for a couple months, if I like it I'll buy it. It's that simple. I have one freaking awesome guitar already, if this one's anything but awesome I'll notice. If I like it early on, I'll pay them to put new strings on the one in the store (without me buying it). So we'll see.
  10. To someone who's learning or practicing on their own, or doesn't have their own band for some reason? I find it rather enriching. It's the closest thing I have to playing with others, which teaches me to follow along with the band. A lot of people can't play in a band because they can't keep rhythm with the other band members (myself included; I've done it, but usually I can't stay in time with the metronome or the album).
  11. Yes, they need to be played in the proper tuning to get the right open chord shapes in key. If you try to play along with the album, it's not going to sound right unless you drop your tuning.
  12. Okay so I'm noticing a pattern here: - My teacher wants me to play Sweet Child o' Mine. It's down a half step. - I want to play Story of my Life, it's down a half step - Half the crap I want to play needs Drop D or you run out of guitar So I need like 3 guitars? One standard, one DAdGBe, one down a half with heavy strings?
  13. I'm thinking of building my own Les Paul clone, sort of... maybe use a Les Paul shape, but contour the body like an Ibanez RG (i.e. the sides get thin at parts to act as arm rests etc etc). There's two things I want to do though: No Floyd-Rose style trem/nut; I may go with a plain old stop-tail and tune-o-matic, but definitely locking tuners and a graphite nut. Reverb cavity-- route out a small cavity in the back, possibly near/between the pickups, and tension three springs in it. I haven't really decided how to run the springs. In very basic theory and ignoring the effects of the guitar body, parallel to the strings would let me lay one to each side, and would apply the sound wave (vibrating left-to-right) as an S-wave, prone to lose power. Perpendicular would result in P-waves (left-to-right across the guitar) and S-waves (in and out perpendicular to the guitar body), although the guitar itself is carrying the sound as P-waves perpendicular to the guitar (which upon crossing the barrier into the spring become S-waves). Perpendicular to the guitar would be implausible (very short spring) and carry as P-waves. However, despite the shape of the waves, the above analysis may be incorrect. The propagation of the P-waves through the body would follow the connecting material attaching the spring to the guitar, inserting it into the spring body as P-waves regardless. In this case, mounting the springs parallel to the strings would produce the best sympathetic effect. The exact size and tension of the springs matters too, which would make this pretty difficult to pull off properly. Let's say I laid the springs parallel to the strings, one on each side of the pickups. The springs would have to be: Of appropriate weight and tension to resonate at the midrange of desirable guitar frequencies Tight and heavy enough to resonate for an extended period (i.e. without dampening) Light enough to be influenced by the small amount of energy in the guitar (i.e. not so heavy that the guitar doesn't influence them) This is hard to do. The springs have to be light, stiff, and tensioned well; but they can't be tensioned such that they resonate best around high e' fret 12. They also have to be heavy enough to carry energy comparable to the guitar-- more and they don't function much, less and they function with little effect. Springs that are too slack will act as dampeners. So yeah. Guitar with built-in mechanical spring reverb and body sustain. Not feasible?
  14. Even if I can play a song, it's... well it's okay on a tube amp, it's okay clean. Solid state amps ... I've got a Vox DA5 (which I plugged into my VJ on clean channel, it thins the sound a lot somehow...), any blues or clean channel is good but anything past Crunch 1 sounds all muddy and crap when I play it. When my fingers bump a string, I hear it; when my hand slides along the strings (muting, or fretting fingers relax a bit to move without actually coming OFF the strings), I hear it; a little bit of playing and it's just a mess of muddy reverbing sounds, harmonics, and sympathetic vibrations between strings! How do I play "good"? Is this one of those things where I need someone to actually sit down with me and watch, and tell me what I'm doing wrong?
  15. Nods. I've got a schematic for you but it's offtopic and almost done.
  16. Would carbon comp resistors go well in R4 and R15? I'm thinking R3 won't show enough voltage swing to get good second harmonics unless your pickups are unbelievably hot. I'm placing an effects loop between C2 and R5, which may push more or less amplification when stuff's hooked up.
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