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About ricach

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  1. Welcome rbc. I'm surprised that this forum helped you pick the microcube since there has been nothing but tons of glowing things said about the Vjr. lol. Good luck learning the guitar - I picked it up at 45. Yes, you can still teach old dogs new tricks.
  2. I would wait to hear how it sounds with the speakers before modifying the Vjr. Then decide what you'd like to hear different. Making mods -just because others have - before even hearing how it sounds just doesn't make much sense to me.
  3. No its not the one I was thinking of, and neither is this I just came across http://www.proguitarshop.com/product.php?ProductID=929&CategoryID=15 but probably worth checking out.
  4. The idea of a clean boost pedal is not to inject an already distorted signal into the amp - but more to allow the amp (tubes) to start breaking up earlier with a clean signal - thus less headroom, but louder. At least this is my interpretation since I've never really used one myself. I do remember seeing one of those available via custom made, but can't recall where. But I'll look around.
  5. Oh, no doubt you can find batteries that can handle the power necessary, but for how long and at what expense? The batteries you point out could drive an EJr for at most 2 hours - and they will cost as much as the EJr did. You could go cheaper and use a car battery, but how portable is that? And that's not even getting into the circuitry necessary to turn that perfect DC into something better resembling a simple rectified AC that gives a tube amp its character.
  6. All the battery powered amps are solid state. Even the little piggies. The bigger piggies that are tube driven are plug in only.
  7. I know we have some very helpful and knowledgeable people here, and I try to chip in when I can, but there is a bunch of great guys over at http://music-electronics-forum.com/home.php (Amplification section) that are always willing to help and are extremely knowledgeable about all kinds of tube amps. Probably because alot of them do this for a living. If you hit a brick wall here, give them a shout. but do them the courtesy of searching first for your answer. The search function is pretty good and thorough.
  8. I didn't read the article but forgive me if this was emphasized ...... tube amps you MUST use the correct ohmage for long output transformer life and maximum power transfer. solid state amps are way more adaptable to various ohms.
  9. you could do that but i'm betting once he hears the difference - especially the big increase in volume and tone definition - the crappy DSP wouldn't be worth the switch.
  10. Yes, you are correct. You might find it difficult to solder onto the middle tab of VR6, if so, then find C13 and solder onto the one side of that instead. Make sure you verify you have the correct side of the C13. This all can be done on the top of the PCboard so no need to remove it. If this is your first time soldering - find some way to practice before attempting on the pcboard. they don't tolerate much heat - especially several 'heating' cycles from failed attempts.
  11. I don't have a schematic in front of me for a Special, but if that's the obvious place, yes you just need to solder in a jumper - essentially shorting out the DSP section completely.
  12. I'm not certain since I can't see how it broke, but you're best to replace it. RS should have a close replacement - but not exact. What is the value of the cap? Remember, with caps, their values add when placed in parallel. So two 500uF wired in parallel will be equivalent to 1000uF. (This is opposite of resistors)
  13. I don't have a schematic to look at , but I assumed in 15W mode you only use half the power tubes. Do you have a link to those schematics?
  14. I'm sure you understood, but I meant 'pull the tubes', not the plugs. :-
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