[Korean Epiphones - A Theory]

While the overall quality control of Chinese Epiphones has improved in recent years and become much more consistent, aside from a few particular models (like the '61 reissues), the specs have clearly been changed for the worse. I recently saw a newer Joe Pass model in a store, and it was not even close to my 2001 Samick. The top had barely any arch at all, and the shape was more squared off from the graceful curves of my Samick. F-holes on many models have been widened, probably to make installation of the wiring harness easier, but they look oddly distorted to my eyes. Woods and finishes are clearly of lower quality as well, though the build quality seems pretty decent.

 

The bottom line is --- it's all about the bottom line. The Qingdao factory was set up so that Epiphone guitars could be made less expensively --- not so they could be made better. Many of the designs have been compromised to that end, so I seriously doubt that the standard Chinese models will eclipse the Korean ones when they are apples-to-apples comparisons. The specialty models that were never made in Korea are a different story --- some of those may become more desirable to collectors as they become less available.

Not doubting that you looked, but aren't a lot of the newer Joe Passes from Indonesia--which brings up the question: how about the Indonesian-made Epis?

[howard roberts type epip triumph A 412 natural]

But does it truly exist if there are no pix? I think we'd all REALLY like to see this one!

[Anyone got a 1962 50th Anniversary Sheraton?]

Embellishments, it's all about the fancy look on the Sheraton. Gold hardware instead nickel/chrome, fancier bindings, fancier inlays on fretboard and headstock. Basically the same difference as between an ES-335 and an ES-355 mono. In terms of construction it is the same guitar.

 

If you ask for the differences between the chinese made Riviera Limited Edition and the 50th anniversary Sheraton there are some more (I own both guitars): Standard chinese mini humbuckers on the Riviera vs Gibson minis on the Sheraton, the smaller more elegant headstock on the Sheraton. Full size Grover tuning machines on the Sheraton vs somewhat cheap Kluson type tuners on the Riviera. The Sheraton also is lighter, maybe they used poplar (or Chromite as Gibson calls it) for the center block of the Sheraton. The finish of the Sheraton is done a lot better, e.g. no black painted F-holes. The Sheraton has a more comfortable neck profile for my taste.

Thanks so much! I really appreciate this forum when stuff like this--the whole thread--happens.

[Anyone got a 1962 50th Anniversary Sheraton?]

Thanks. I really couldn't tell for sure.

...which leads me to my second stupid question of the day (#1 in the Sorrento thread--been answered): with the minibuckers, the frequensator tailpiece, the same body (& neck?) configuration, at base what real difference is there between a Sheraton and a Riviera? I understand that variations have gone in different directions, but seems to me I've seen Rivs that look just like Sheratons and vice-versa, especially in their earliest models.

Thank you for your patience, since this is just out of curiosity.

[Real Difference Between the Dot, Sheraton, Casino & Riviera]

New to guitar and new to this forum. I have 3 Epiphones' date=' a Les Paul Studio, a Hummingbird and an EL-00 which my wife plays. We are learning guitar together which is fun.

 

I am looking hard at an archtop but, other than the price which really isn't an issue, I wonder what the [i'][/i]real difference is between the Dot, Sheraton II, Casino & the Riviera. Being a big Beatles fan I naturally lean towards the Casino but, except for the IBJL versions, the price range of the Sheraton, Casino & Riviera are pretty close. The Dot's are noticeably cheaper but I'm not sure why. My guess is the electronics, i.e. pick-ups & humbuckers.

 

So I have 2 questions for you more experienced folks: 1) What are the real differences in the above mentioned guitars and 2) I have noticed on ebay and other similar sites that many used guitars I've looked at (mostly of the above mentioned models) are selling for not a whole lot less than what you could get a brand new one for. As an example I have been following used Casinos pretty closely and they tend to go for around $500 when I could get a brand new one for $600! Same goes for Sheratons and Dots, most of them selling for only $50-100 less than the cost of a brand new one. It doesn't make sense to me but, like I said I'm new to guitars and guitar stuff. So what's up with that? Why would a 5-10 year old guitar still be worth so close to a new one? I wish my cars would hold their value like that!

Remember that the Casino is full-hollow-bodied, the others semi. That is to say the others have a big piece of wood down thru the middle of the body--cuts down on feedback. Agree with Weslee about the neck on the Sheraton vs. Dot; otherwise, the difference is bling, as far as I can see (and I may be wrong). Never could quite figure out how the Riv figures into this, except the original Riv had mini-humbuckers (right?); now there are models out with P94s and P93s, various tailpieces, etc. hard to keep the riv models straight, IMO.

[Review: Gibson Advanced Jumbo vs Epiphone Masterbilt AJ-500RE]

Thanks Red' date=' I think I prefer the drier sound of a good Gibson.

 

Maybe the 500M mahogany model has less boom and bass reverberation than the rosewood box?[/quote']

I think the word "prefer" is rather key here. I cannot think of a Gibson dread I would prefer over my AJ500RC 12-fretter, both in terms of sound and playability; but I come to that after figuring I can't afford a Gibson CJ165(maple) and, for the money, I preferred the Epi to the Martin OM21 I was also considering.

But, you see, it's what I "prefer," though I do think (MVHO) the Masterbilts give the Gibbies and Martins a run for their money.

[Has Epiphone ever made a resonator guitar?]

Still think your best bet, dollar for dollar, is Regal.

[Has Epiphone ever made a resonator guitar?]

I have played both the Biscuit model (wooden body) and the MD100 model (brass). On the Epi website, look for the page for the "Bluegrass (grrrrrr...) Collection" to find specs and pix for both. I play the same kind of material you do, presently on a vintage '73 steel Dobro and a Masterbilt AJ500RC. I also use the Dobro for fingerpicking as well as sliding, so I keep the action pretty low anyway. Gotta practice to get the "touch" to avoid the fret buzz!

I liked what I heard from the Biscuit, and certainly the price is right. I was surprised to read from Epi's own specs that the nut width is as small as they say--it didn't feel like it. This would be a red flag for me, but perhaps it still works--or even works better--for you.

I was much less impressed with the Epi metal-bodied resonator. It was awkward to hold--I prefer playing standing--as the body was extremely heavy (brass? Specs in one place say steel, in another brass. Sure feels like brass). The sound was too "pretty". Kind of round, bottom-heavy, little "cut" to it, and just dull. My own preference is for a little "edge" in the sound of a metal-bodied resonator, and this just didn't have it. Neither did the Biscuit very much, but it's wood and my expectations are different. And it's less awkward. And cheaper!

If you are specifically looking for a metal bodied model without needing to mortgage, try Regal or Gold Tone. Myself, I also don't like the Johnson or Fender models.