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About fingers1281734244

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  1. I just received a set of Stew-Mac radius gauges and set out to measure my Epi SG-400's fretboard and bridge saddles. I thought it would have a 12" radius, but the 15" radius gauge seemed to fit closer. I've never read one of these before, so maybe I'm not doing it right. Help?
  2. Thanks guys. FWIW, I recently bought a copy of Dan Erlewine's Guitar Player's Repair Guide and am learning how to do the setups myself in future. No question my SG is a good guitar. It's just frustrating that when all I ask for is the intonation to be checked and new strings, it comes back with a problem it hadn't had before. But we'll sort it out... And don't worry, if your wives are like mine, they will NEVER read anything in a guitar forum! Although I was somewhat impressed that she did a little internet research to try to find out what I paid for my Strat!
  3. Need a little help, please. My new SG-400 played pretty nicely right from the factory, but the intonation sounded a little off to my tone-deaf ears so I took it in for a setup at the shop where I bought it. It came back sounding better on the one string that was bugging me, but it also had a new fret buzz problem that it hadn't had before. I asked the technician about it, and he said it was because I had selected a lighter string gauge (.09's instead of the .10's that were on it when it went in), and the lighter strings require a lighter touch. This was a slip on my part, not deliberate. Anyway, he told me to restring with .10's and see if that corrected the problem. It didn't. I took it back to him and he tweaked it again -- now it's better, but still not where I think it was before. Now I'm wondering about his assertion that lighter strings buzz more than heavier strings, because I just bought a Fender Strat that was shipped with .09's and it doesn't buzz. Is this technician out to lunch? Should the same gauge of strings buzz on one guitar and not on another -- assuming the neck and action are adjusted similarly? I bought both guitars new, from different shops; the Strat has not been in for a setup yet, unless they did one at the store (not sure); the SG came straight from the factory.
  4. Well, I decided to stick with the SG and learn to live with the neck weight issue. I liked almost everything else about it too much to swap it! I'm having the set-up done now and can't wait to get it back. Thanks to all once again for your advice.
  5. It's really the neck-heaviness of the SG that has me unsettled more than anything else, but it's not something I couldn't just deal with since I like the way it sounds and plays otherwise, and I love the look. The store has a good return policy so I can try out some options before settling permanently on one or the other.
  6. Thanks, everyone, for the helpful advice. Yes, I've still got the stock strings on as I figured I'd play it a bit before getting the set-up done. Still considering whether to swap it for an Epi Les Paul.
  7. Hi all, So after sorting out what model SG I bought (thanks to all who contributed!) and playing it for a week, I have two more questions about my new Epi SG "standard" (ie. G-400). 1) the strap pin at the bottom of the guitar came loose, and after (carefully) applying a screwdriver to tighten, I found that the hole was too big for the screw and it just kept turning. I'm guessing that it shouldn't be a big deal to get the dealer to replace it with a slighter bigger (diameter) screw that will bite properly into the guitar's body. Is there any reason that this would be a bad idea? One of the screws on the back plate has also been put into a similarly over-drilled hole and won't tighten properly. 2) I've been working on a couple of pieces that use a fair bit of string-bending, and occasionally, on some frets, I'm getting a rough, scraping action rather than the kind of smooth slide along the fret that one would expect. Has anyone else experienced this problem on any guitar? Could it be that (a) the stock strings are the problem; ( there is some sort of metallic residue that the strings are scraping off; or © the bending action of the string is "shaping" the top or side of the fret? 3) I'm getting some fret buzz on the A and low-E strings. The dealer told me I would get a free set-up with the purchase, and that would correct the problem. I don't really want the action raised as the guitar plays nicely everywhere else. I'm thinking a very slight raise on the nut would be a better option, or perhaps a slight filing of the first couple of frets? What would be the preferable option? Is the dealer likely to raise the nut, or this too laborious a job? Again, what would be the best way to fix this?
  8. My new (2004) Epi SG has that same wine red finish. Love it! Looks like they've stopped using that colour on the newer SG models, which I think is a shame.
  9. Thanks for the info on posting photos. Here goes. I'm guessing that Epiphone called this particular model a "standard" in 2004 when mine was made, and then changed the name to G-400 for later models?
  10. The neck is set. The fretboard has trapezoid inlays but there's no binding. I know it was made in China from the "ee" on the serial number. The tuners say "Jinho" on the back. The model number is EGG4WRGH. I tried plugging it into the Epiphone site's search engine but nothing came up. What's the trick to uploading a picture? The picture button inserts HTML code, and I'm not that advanced...
  11. I just bought a 2004 Epi SG "standard" and I'm wondering if this is the same as the G-400? Can anyone shed some light?
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