Be.eM
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Posts posted by Be.eM
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It's officially called a "Spirit XZ-2/GU4R DoubleNeck". The serial on Spirits won't tell you anything (except the manufacturing date).
Bernd
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Yes, that's a factory retrofitted TTv1.
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Uncle Freddy,
this is the type of bridge which has been installed on Steinberger Spirits (and Hohner basses), not the bridge mounted on USA instruments. Hohner in Germany has stopped making headless instruments two years ago, but they still have a few spare parts available (selling them off, once gone then gone). However, they don't ship to the US, so if you are there, you'd need somebody in Europe to order and ship them for you. Do you know somebody there?
Bernd
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Chris,
most likely it was made around August or September 1986, see this list for comparison. If you want a precise date, you should write an e-mail to Gibson service. They have the original manufacturing logs and should be able to tell you more details.
By "type 1, 2nd generation TransTrem" you mean a TTv1 with the v2 jaws retrofitted?
Bernd
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3 hours ago, Bobbit Nepo said:
Hello. I just brought in my Steinberger L2 black bass graphite SN-N1008. Hoping I could get it registered in existence. Its now here in Winnipeg, Canada. Thank you.
The list at SteinbergerWorld is old, no longer updated. Its successor on the headless-europe.eu website is still continuously updated. The L2 bass with the serial number 1008 is already in the list. L-type instruments don't have a prefix (N or TN). Just the number. Is there anything you'd like to add to the existing entry?
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Hi Anders,
although you already found out what you need, here is a link to the wiring of a HazLabs board.
Bernd
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There's a guy in Ireland fixing them, details here.
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If I buy teflon washers on eBay, what size am I looking for? Better yet, do you know of a link?
No ebay link, I've bought these (the M3 version, for the specs)
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Hi all,
in case you're looking for one, because your tremolo arm got lost or has stripped threads, a first small batch of replacement arms is now available. See a detailed description here:
TransTrem 3 replacement tremolo arms
Bernd
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Ihave the steinberger spirit deluxe and since new the tuners operate very poorly. They are difficult to turn and are very hard to turn. Is there a simple solution to remedy this so they operate better, more smoothly? Thanks
I have written a maintenance guide for the R-Trem which should help with this. Apart from cleaning and lubricating especially using teflon washers (you'll find them on ebay) between tuning knobs and housing help a lot.
Bernd
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What is meant by the tremolo centers?
The tremolo can be pushed down and pulled up, and if set up correctly, it returns to a defined position between "up" and "down". This is exactly the position it has when the lock is engaged, so the tremolo should not move when the trem is locked or unlocked.
To achieve this just do what the instructions say on the 2nd page. Lock the trem for setup and tuning, then unlock. The trem jumps up or down and goes out of tune. Now use the big master tuning knob to adjust the spring tension until the trem returns exactly to the position it had when locked. This is also the position the trem returns to correct tuning, so just use your tuner to determine the correct position.
Bernd
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It came with a manual but its for a synapse series and Gibson tells
me that's the only one there is.
You might want to read these instructions for Spirits :)
Bernd
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I'll have to clean the fretboard now. I use windex or 409 to clean fretboards. I assume the phenolic fretboard takes normal fingerboard oil then?
The recommended cleaning agent for phenolic resin fretboards is something like WD-40. Do not wet the fretboard with it, as it should not run into gaps, openings or the wooden part of the neck. Just use a slightly moistened wipe. Here is a great explanation of the advantages of WD-40.
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I thought that can't be right so I tuned everything down a whole step. Seems like that was Steinberger's intention since the literature for the model says to roll the built in capo up "a couple of frets" to play like a regular guitar. Plus DGCFAD tuning would make sense because of the two fret offset between the two different sets of fret markers.
DGCFAD is correct and the intended standard tuning.
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Does anyone know of a set up guide for these tremolos?
Update: since the question "how to set up a Steinberger KB trem" is asked again and again, and there is no official manufacturer's documentation, I finally did the next step and created some setup instructions with pictures
![[smile]](//content.invisioncic.com/p286412/emoticons/default_msp_smile.gif)
You can now download these instructions (PDF) from my KB trem page.
Bernd
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I just ordered the posts from Bernd,
Yep. Did the Paypal invoice arrive? I've sent it yesterday.
now I need to get the tremolo arm,You get this one here: Tim Small's tremolo arms. Tim makes them for the Steinberger R-Trem, but they are exactly the same as on the KB trem.
and tuning screws,You've seen that I'm selling tuning screws too (bottom of page)? I just don't have any more original black ones.
and actually the small wedge shaped things that go against these posts...The knife edges. I have to look tomorrow if I have some spare (used) ones.
Does anyone know of a set up guide for these tremolos?1. Lock trem.
2. Tune the guitar to pitch.
3. Unlock trem.
4. Use the small lever on the back to rotate the (hidden) cog to adjust the spring tension. If you pull the lever up (away from the guitar), you can move it horizontally without turning the cog, if you push it down (into the bridge), you rotate the cog with each horizontal movement.
5. Adjust the spring tension so that the unlocked position is exactly the same as the locked position, and the guitar is in tune in both cases.
Bernd
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Bernd I will get off of my A** and finish my guitars so if you still want those other Trems after you can email me.
Hi Lance,
those trems have been waiting for my treatment for about 20-25 years. I guess some more weeks won't make a big difference ;)
Yes, I'm still interested in the rest of the package.
Best regards,
Bernd
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Not entirely accurate.
Well, this applies here, too ;)
Hummer, is that you?
It is (somewhat) well documented that the design flaw of this tremolo system was actually that the pedestals attached to the base plate got bent by the force exerted upon them by the posts. Because the thread on the posts was too short and did not securely screw into the (very solid) base plate. Here'sa link to the fix.Obiously my fix description has become public domain now, being ripped off my website.
The saddles in my guitar were half way broken off so I just snapped them clean off and then screwed the original posts securely into the base plate(see attachment). A brutish, risky, move but it worked flawlessly. Now they're sticking straight up and now the unit is rock solid as it should have been from the factory.
This is not a recommendable fix. May be that I've explained to you before, but anyway:
What you did here was offsetting the whole "geometry". The upper (movable) part of the trem sits about 4 mm lower than before. This has the following consequences:
- the trem spring in the base is either no longer straight (bent), or it doesn't sit correctly fixed in the corresponding lever
- the string action is lowered to that amount. You need to compensate these 4 mm by raising the saddles accordingly, and this height maxes out their adjustment range
- at least up-bending using the trem is either impossible or extremely limited now, because the trem head soon hits the base
So if you actually want to use the trem, this "fix" doesn't fix it. You may do it this way, if you want to turn the trem into a kind of fixed bridge.
Here is a photo of a KB trem I've refurbished. Can you see what would happen if you make the post 4 mm shorter? The moving bridge part sits completely on the base:
Thanks for pointing out that these were made by Hohner. Very intriguing.As I said, they aren't. Epiphone and Hohner just got them from the same source.
Bernd
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$600 and still a lot of work to be done?
No, that were 600 Euro. That's about $770. And the work I had to do led to the repair solution I found, and meanwhile there are almost 50 guitars worldwide which have been fixed and revived this way. Many Epiphones among them (the majority). So I think, it was worth it.
Well, she's a beauty. Hold on to her!
Well, too late. I gave it to my son for successfully finishing school. But it stays within the family
Bernd
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Apples and Oranges.
Were not talking about one piece of similar hardware, though.
Apart from that, we don't even have the same understanding of "hardware" ;)
Actually I was just talking about the KB trem/locking nut combo. Sorry, if I misunderstood your posting.
Nice guitar BTW.
What is the price on one of those these days?...considering you can find one.
Well, they are really rare (some have a FR instead), but doesn't have much impact on the price. Few people want a Gibson that looks like a (Power)Strat. I paid 600 Euro, yet not knowing that I would have a lot of work with the trem.
Bernd
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The X-1000's were made in Korea. Since these have the (almost) exact same hardware on them, I'd bet they were most likely made in Korea as well. I could be wrong, but were talking about less than a handfull of guitar models with the same specialized hardware. Its unlikely they were made in different countries.
Well, the guitar I've used for my KB trem research is a Gibson U2, made in USA. It's this one:
So the hardware alone isn't necessarily an indicator. But generally speaking, I think you're right. The KB trem is using some parts which are also used on the Steinberger R-Trem. The R-Trem is used on all the Steinberger Spirit GT and GU guitars, as well as on the Hohner headless. Both, Steinberger Spirit and Hohner headless guitars were (are) made in Korea. Considering the fact that the KB and the R-Trem are low-cost versions of Steinberger trems, this sounds plausible.
Bernd
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…black Steinberger bridge without a whammy bar
A beauty
Just FYI: For the missing whammy bar you can easily get a replacement. Timm Small (luthier) sells whammy bars for the Steinberger R-Trem on ebay, and these are exactly the same. They fit perfectly, I've tested it.
Regarding the possible problems of the KB-Trem (which is not built by Hohner, they just have been another licensee): I've developed a repair solution for these trems, so if your's has the "bent posts syndrome", it can quickly be fixed.
If you're interested to read more, there is a long thread about your guitar's sister, the trem and the fix on the GearPage
Bernd
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Well, the L-type list shows #114 and #116 in 1982, but at this time bolt-on models didn't exist yet, I believe. What type is your bass? XP2? Then I'd think 1983 could be a plausible date, and Newburgh is the place of manufacturing.
The list of serials (and the whole SteinbergerWorld website) are maintained by Andy Yakubik. If you hope to find more information, then you could probably ask him (via the "Links & Credits" page on the SW website). SteinbergerWorld contains the most comprehensive information about Steinies on the whole web, so if you don't find your answer there, I doubt you'll find it anywhere.
One last option you could also try is contacting Gibson service. I did this once regarding a Newburgh GM, but even they didn't have a complete SN list, and were only able to date it by a range of numbers. As I already said, the original production logs haven't been complete.
Bernd
![[smile]](http://content.invisioncic.com/p286412/emoticons/default_msp_smile.gif)
Lowering action on Spirit 6 string, but saddles all the way down.
in Steinberger
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No, these posts are (or should be) fully screwed into the base. You cannot lower them. The only thing you could do at this point is removing the trem completely and make the routing a little bit deeper. However, this should not be necessary. Is the neck relief adjusted correctly?