j45nick
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Posts posted by j45nick
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1 hour ago, patmAcdonald said:
Thanks! 🙂 Yeah the bridge was definitely replaced, but the pickguard? I dunno.. What throws me is the serial number (six digits starting with zero) . Apparently some electrics in '59 were numbered that way, but no acoustics, as far as i can find in any internet search. I was I'm wondering if it was an inside job at the factiory - one of the Gibson builders experimenting(?)
The pickguard is definitely not original. No way, no how. A 1967 J-45 would have had a batwing pickguard. Some later square-body Js used a Martin-style pickguard similar in shape to the one on your guitar, but yours isn't even positioned properly. It is rotated out at the bottom, maybe to clear the bridge.
A '67 J-45 would almost certainly have had a cherryburst top finish, and typically,--but not always--dark cherry stain on the back and sides, rather than the dark walnut that we normally associate with the J-45.
The red dye Gibson used to stain guitars in the period was very stable, and often completely faded away, leaving what looks like a blond finish. Think of Donovan's J-45.
Look inside the soundhole at the underside of the top immediately around the soundhole, using a small mirror and a light. It is fairly common for there to be overspray that might indicate the original top color.
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Nice!
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2 hours ago, AmbiguousGuitar said:
I bought the exact same guitar a couple of months ago and am still on the hunt for the right strings. Searching for a little more warmth and boom but I think a professional setup could do some wonders. One suggestion I saw online was to have the bracing scooped out a bit more to enhance the bass and vibrate the top more to speed up the break-in period. I love the look and feel of this instrument so much that I'm dedicated to finding a combination / solution that works for me. Hope to find it soon!
I would leave the bracing alone and concentrate on a good setup and a bit of string experimentation. Modifying the bracing is not reversible. Everything else--pins, saddle, nut, strings, even the set-up--can be fiddled with to your heart's content without long-term harm to the guitar.
You may want to ignore online suggestions that could significantly and permanently impact on the value and character of your guitar.
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When I was a junior in college (1967) my roommate had a D-18 with Rotomatics. I had a rather sad, worn 1950 J-45 with the original Klusons, which I had a lot of trouble with because I had no idea how to clean and lubricate them to make them work better. With their plastic buttons, they also looked cheap next to those shiny Rotomatics. The Rotomatics also never slipped the way the Klusons did.
Fortunately, I didn't have money to replace the Klusons with Rotomatics. A couple of years later I was having some work done on the guitar, and I asked the guy what it would cost to switch to Rotomatics. I still couldn't spend that much on tuners, since I was also getting the first hard case the guitar had ever had. So they guy said if I wanted to replace the Klusons, he could install a set of Grover Sta-Tite 97s for about half the cost of the Rotomatics.
I went for the Sta-Tites, and they are still on the guitar today. They actually look pretty good on the guitar, which is the one in my avatar here. I promise you the funny-looking headstock is actually a 1950 J-45 underneath the ebony and ivory binding (made from old piano keys), and the fancy abalone inlay. (The fretboard actually has even fancier abalone inlay.)
Thank Dog I didn't have the money for the Rotomatics back then! Wish I had those original Klusons back.
My other 1950 J-45 is absolutely original, including the Klusons. I bought it because it was a one-owner, really fine version of the guitar I bought back in 1966. So I have two 1950 J-45s, built no more than a couple of months apart, but with very different life stories.
I've rejuvenated a whole lot of Klusons since then, but I've never owned a Rotomatic. Nothing wrong with them, but they're not for me.
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24 minutes ago, rustystrings said:
What a gift he had. What a gift he was! I grew up with his music always in the background. A few years back, when I started getting serious about really studying songwriting, I took a deep dive into his catalog and was smitten. I can only imagine how much work it must have taken to trim and tailor every word and every note to where everything was just exactly right and enough like that. It sounds so effortless, and it is anything but!
We listened to "Sundown," "The Wreck of the Edmund Fitzgerald," and "If You Could Read My Mind" on the drive in today to take my kids to school. My 14-year-old daughter was smitten by the long ballad and was shocked and amused that it had been on the charts on the radio - a song like that is totally alien now. She also declared herself a Lightfoot fan after that, so I pointed her towards his catalog, as well as this video -
- I still can't decide what I like best about this breakdown - the choice of a perfect song, perfectly written, played, arranged and recorded; the explanation of HOW it works in language even the musically illiterate such as I can follow; or Beato's sheer joy and enthusiasm for a stunning piece of music.
If you want to learn how to really listen to and analyze popular music, it's hard to beat Rick Beato. His enthusiasm is infectious.
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What a talent. What a loss to us all.
But we still have his music, forever.
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8 hours ago, Jazzmac69 said:
Thanks Nick, I’ve ordered the Virtuoso cleaner & polish so I’ll try that first, then move on to naphtha if need be 👍
Consider starting with the naphtha, which is a cleaner/solvent that is reasonably safe on nitrocellulose lacquer, provided you don't really soak your rags with it.
You cannot use Virtuoso on bare wood like a fretboard, and you should keep it away from any dings in the lacquer surfaces. The Virtuoso cleaner leaves a white reside that is almost impossible to remove from dings or lacquer crazing.
I use soft white cotton rags for this type of cleaning to prevent scratches in the lacquer. You do have to exercise reasonable care, and keep throwing rags away as they get dirty.
This method will not help with the inside of the guitar. The bare wood there may have absorbed a lot of smoke, but with luck, most of it will be on the outside.
If the guitar case smells, air it out for a week or so, but it you close it up with a smelly guitar in it, the case lining is likely to absorb the smell, and you're back to square one.
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I bought a 1947 L-7 a few years ago that stunk of tobacco. I mean, really stunk.
I had to throw away the original padded gig bag. My wife wouldn't have it in the house.
Took the strings off, wiped the whole thing down with naphtha. Scraped all the residue of the fretboard with a razor blade, then wiped that down again. Kept cleaning everything until the rags came out clean. Then cleaned the whole thing with Virtuoso cleaner. Let it air for two weeks on a stand, then polished the body with Virtuoso polish. Oiled the fretboard.
It all worked out pretty well, but I was extraordinarily thorough in my cleaning.
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45 minutes ago, VNVtraining said:
I just recently purchased a new Gibson J-45 Standard, 2023.
Returned it as the back of the head stock had 5-6 long nitrocellulose lacquer cracks and the joints where the neck fret board is attached to the body had pretty noticeable smudging .Long & McQuade replaced the guitar for me with zero hassles. The new one was made Dec 2022.
Plays and sounds great but again some cosmetic QC issues...I have 30 days to bring it back.
I wonder if they are receiving B-Stock or Gibson is really that off on their QC ?
I'm not that picky but I find this is a bit $hitty for a $3799 plus taxes guitar (Canadian dollars)
Anyone recently have the same experience with the latest J-45 Standard ?
https://1drv.ms/i/s!AnesMveYVYbnge5M1qdGl7toiG11zw?e=RVSRTPhttps://1drv.ms/i/s!AnesMveYVYbnge5K1DQlpMibRX8Rug?e=BkrzSB
https://1drv.ms/i/s!AnesMveYVYbnge5LcFL99VB2p9BxkA?e=jYl55J
https://1drv.ms/i/s!AnesMveYVYbnge5NvFu84meNhvy6kQ?e=ucmK3qI suspect that is buffing compound residue, but it's hard to know without a first-hand inspection. That tends to end up on inside corners if the person doing the work isn't really conscientious.
I have three modern Gibsons, and all three are cosmetically excellent. Maybe I got lucky. All three are also high-end models.
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1 hour ago, MjrPaynendaz said:
You know, that was my original plan, run by Guitar Center which is about 20 minutes away, let them look at it then, go from there. My ‘mistake’ was contacting Gibson Customer Care for a wiring schematic for my 2013 Gibson “Roxy-Frank Zappa” SG. In my email I “mistakenly” mentioned my Custom Shop Nick Lucas ‘Warranty’ issue. They’ve been directing me back and forth since October 2022. I offered pictures. No response.
I’ll eventually post pictures and the entire email thread just so everyone else can try to understand Gibson Lifetime Warranty and how to go about having an issue addressed.
I appreciate all the experienced replies. Kinda surprising what some have been through. Glad to see some ended up well… for the Player/Customer.Since you haven't gotten a suitable response, go back to your original plan.
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On 4/21/2023 at 9:52 PM, Dave F said:
I've been through this process on a couple issues. I have two Gibson Authorized repair shops near me. I've taken my guitar to them, they inspect and suggest repair, they sent the report to Gibson. Gibson decides to not approve, approve repair shop to do the repair or issue a RM. Both times I used the local shops, Gibson authorized them to do the repair.
The only time (twice) I've received an RM was on new purchases via the dealer. Both issues were resolved. Granted, both of these RM were in the time frame where I could return the guitar for a refund.
If your car is under warranty issued by the OEM, you don't take it back to them. You take it to the dealer. Make the dealer earn his markup.
Gibson Repairs U.S.A., Gibson Service Centers (service-center-locator.com)
^This.
The OP lives in central Florida. From that list of Gibson Service Centers, there are several that should be within an hour or so drive from his location. I would call to verify opening hours, and tell them you would like them to look at the guitar. Put the guitar in the car, and drive to seem them, rather than going back and forth online or by telephone.
Describing a problem is one thing. Showing them the problem is another matter entirely.
And remember, honey catches more flies than vinegar.
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On 4/19/2023 at 6:37 AM, Pimouss said:
One more question, do you know if there was a COA for this model ?
There may or may not have been. Gibson is not necessarily consistent in this.
If you did not get one, assume it doesn't exist. As a rule, Gibson does not issue a new COA to a subsequent owner.
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We really need photos of this problem to comment intelligently on it.
As far as I'm concerned, no photos, no problem.
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1 hour ago, Dave F said:
You know we're not the brightest crayons in the box. We need visual aide. How about some outside and inside pictures of the damage? I've bought quite a few Gibson guitars in the 2007-2023 range. I did see a drop in quality in the mid teen years. I have a 2016 Nick Lucas 12 Fret Mystic Rosewood. To me, a dream guitar. I purchased one from Musicians Freind and had to return it because the bridge plate was damaged. I was negotiating one from another 5-star dealer but they looked at the bridge plate per my request and it too was damaged. I then negotiated one from CME. They ensured me they looked at it and everything was good. Apparently, they did not double check it per my request. This is what I received.
When I received it and called, they were very apologetic. They asked if I wanted to return it or have it fixed. I really liked it, so I chose the fix it option. CME took control of it and got it to the factory and back to me in about 6 weeks. As mentioned by someone before, I would try to go through the place I purchased it if possible. Here's my repaired plate.
That's more like it. I have seen too many issues with bridgeplates on new or nearly-new Gibsons to cut them much slack on this particular problem. What you got was clearly the result of drilling the pin holes with no backing caul, which we have seen time and time again. It really is not an acceptable practice. At the very least, you are likely to get tear-out around the pin holes, which accentuates wear virtually every time you change the strings.
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Could be a high13th fret, or a hump in the fretboard at that point. Sight along the bass side of the fretboard from the bridge towards the nut. It might be as simple as dressing a new fret.
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Is it foam rubber, or velcro? looks like the fuzzy side of velcro to me.
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It's bizarre the two 1934 OJs showed up on this forum in the last month. The other one was a dramatically better condition than this one, even though it needed a lot of work.
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On 4/1/2023 at 9:28 AM, E-minor7 said:
Repeat the clue = The guy is a sound-person
, , , not fx known as a wordsmith or a formidable player. .
Tom Wilson
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51 minutes ago, E-minor7 said:
Full colour photo is here - the answer is on its way. .
And...?
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17 hours ago, BluesKing777 said:
Sorry, - I blew up the black and white photo above and thought I saw a big 'K' on the headstock and assumed it was a K version of a G like an L1 cheapo, then looked up a K that looked similar - cannot find it now....
On the equipboard site it says she has a CW, A Gibson L1 or L-0 not sure and a Sundberg
And on this video, it is clearly a Gibson L1 or....
BluesKing777.
I would guess L-1 from around 1930, if Fabulous Flat Tops is correct on the changes timeline. Apparently, all were 14-fretters starting in 1932, but you know Gibson characteristics.
Never say never.
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13 hours ago, BluesKing777 said:
1940s Kalamazoo KG-12.
Nice!
https://jakewildwood.blogspot.com/2016/11/1940s-gibson-made-kalamazoo-kg-12.html
BluesKing777.
That Kalamazoo has a 14-fret neck. The one she is playing is a 12-fretter. Hers also appears to have white top binding.
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On 3/20/2023 at 4:16 PM, G1bson said:
I have an LG-1, Serial 43746. Attaching some photos. Any help on verifying the year would be appreciated! Thanks!
That should be 1962. Looks to be in nice shape.
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Anne, that was just fantastic!
Nicely done. You really are a natural at this.
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5 hours ago, Dave F said:
Mine came with a redline case, not sure what they're using now.
When I attempted to adjust my truss rod it squeaked so I removed the nut and put a couple drops of 3-in-1 oil on the threads and that fixed the issue.
The tuners were cheap open geared singles. They looked nice but squeaked and popped when I used them. I bought a set of Waverly that were a drop-in fit. I did not change the bushings.
It's one of my favorite guitars.
I like that rosewood SJ a lot. I've been thinking of moving my Fuller's 1943 SJ re-issue along and springing for the rosewood SJ. They actually look identical in details, but obviously differ in woods and neck profile,
Nut width on mine is 1.78", but I suspect the neck profiles are quite different.
I've got three mahogany slope Js, so I'm in a bit of a rut.
It will be that or a D-28. I've never had a Martin dreadnought.
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What is it?
in Gibson Acoustic
Posted · Edited by j45nick
added additional thought
SJ in that period (1970-71) would be square shoulder body, not round shoulder as shown in the original post. SJ-SJN went square rather than round 1963 or so.
Also, SJ models always had some form of block fretboard inlay, rather than dots.