mikii

Thanks for your fast respond, I showed my naked guitar to a friend this morning and he said he'd take care of it and brought out his drill. he got the size that matched the new CTS pots, i think they were around 3/8. when he started drilling (from body to cavity and not the other way)... It got me nervous and taught it was a bad idea (cause I really suck a wood works). after drilling he fitted in perfectly... what a relief. For the switch, :-) I doubled face palmed after "really x2" reading the link i previously posted. it turns out that I was in need of a deep knurled nut and not a ring type. good thing I grabbed one of those 2 dollar 3 way switches and took out the nut which now is installed in the switchcraft. Anyway thanks for your time and for sharing your exeperience, I really appreciate it.

Hi, I got the switchcraft 3 way toggle switch like you said, it couldn't be sold individually from our store so I bought this ACME kit where it was included http://www.acmeguitarworks.com/Wiring-Kit-Gibson-Les-Paul-Standard-Short-Pots-P1153C157.aspx However it didn't fit. I mean the switch fits but the thread lacks depth so I couldn't lock it. Also, the pot holes (lol) need a bit more to get the threads in. Just like to ask if you had encountered this problem and is it really necessary to bore some wood? thanks a lot

sure did, also checked the continuity from the toggle switch bridging to the pots and output jack to see the effectiveness of the crimp. results are fine but im not purely convinced. I doubt, or rather expect it to loosen at some point Anyway, my plan is to I replace the toggle switch with a better material but if the problem arises again, I'm planning to remove the crimp and solder it and add a few insulation.

Wow, nice projects, I think that will take less than 4 days to finish, and me.. uhmmm maybe a month. LOL!. I really find it hard to work on wood. I have my brother's low end washburn electric for 2 months now to change the tuners, electrics and adjust the truss rod but haven't really put much time into it. Anyway, all the best and hope you get the results your after.

Thanks a lot RaSTuS for the advice, the toggle switch has been a common denominator in nearly every site with the same complain. But I just want to verify with the TS on how he fixed his Epi and what progress he has. Also, this way I can fix the EPI in the cheapest way. As stated by the TS, it would occasionally happen and come back after a few seconds (which I also experienced) and by the time you have opened up the cavity and check for continuity, every thing turns up to be fine. In my experience, there were times that even if I havn't switch the toggle, the sound will be lose for a few seconds. Not to brag about, but I feel really ashamed if I was to go to a guitar tech and let them fix something electrical that I could have already done. I was thinking of changing every electric parts in the unit to hit all the birds with a single stone. Plus avoid soldering and unsoldering if the problem would arise again. But then again, it would take a lot of time and cash to complete and lessen my practice time for our coming gig. Thanks again for the reply, P.S. how about the crimp connection for the pot cavity and the upper toggle switch cavity? I'm kinda suspecting that also to be the culprit :-)

Hi everyone, Just like to ask the TS Ryaan if he fixed his Epiphone LP Std problem? I have the same problem (99% same as described) for a year now and even happened twice in a gig. Sorry for resurrecting the thread, I'm just looking for the cheapest way to fix my Epi. Thanks in advance