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  1. The pickups are being wound down (reducing the resistance) at the moment (my hands are always itchy for every sort of tinkering :-) ), and the guitar is having it´s guts out anyway (i just soldered more proper wiring harness to it), so this would be good time to decide whether to do or not something about those cracks, and play the bulletproof teles meanwhile :-) The Dot
  2. Hi, I discovered that the plywood skin is not perfectly attached to the guitar´s centre block in the neck pickup pocket zone. The open crack is not more than 0.5 mm in height, and on one end of the pocket, a separate lower layer of the veneer/plywood has come off, between the skin and centre block (so, this zone has 2 tiny height cracks above eachother). The length of the cracks is within the width of the neck pup pocket - they dont go or come further. Looks like it all has been previously glued intact, but then come off. Probably this summer´s excessive sun and heat may have done somedamage to it. Or even my own silly hand, when I once used hair dryer to set the neck pickup´s chinese plastic frame to suit better with the curves of the guitar´s archtop. Anyway, there are no problems with playing, looks, staying in tune, etc. But it still bugs me. What do you suggest to do? Just leave it as is, fill the cracks with sometyhing a´la high quality epoxy resin, or try to glue the skin back to the centre block, with some decent carpenter´s glue, using pressure clamps? Has anybody ever seen something similar on 335-type guitars? Thanks in advance for any suggestions. a foggy pic from cell-phone photos:
  3. Meanwhile, since the ordered orange drops ( caps 0.015, 0.01 ) are still somewhere on their way, I tried another trick. Dont even remember where I had read or heared about it . I turned the neck pickup over in its ring - 180 degrees- so now the pole screws of the neck pickup are towards bridge, not the neck anymore. In theory the neck pickup now picks up the signal in a tiny bit another string vibrating amplitude conditions. Anyway - I adjusted the height, gave it a small slant (2-3 mm bigger distance on low E string end than on high e string end), pole screws a bit higher up on low strings and more inside the pickup on higher strings). By first impressions it seems that I got noticeably better with the excessive boominess/too bassy of the neck pup. Anybody else done or heared about the neck pickup 180 degree turn trick ?
  4. I am pretty satisfied with my amps, as they are : A totally overhauled/recapped mint SFDR (´factory scam BF´ - factory custom BF cosmetics) - have tried many different speakers in it, and like it very much with a Jensen MOD 12-70 now - great tone and not too loud - MOD series Jensens are underrated speakers, better than some twice the price ones!; A really cool pure handcraft vibrochamp clone with alnico jensen and onboard tube driven reverb; A great small tone machine Laney VC15 ( trying to mod it´s ext cab socket at the moment - stupid design - cuts out the internal 8 ohm 10" ); A 1994 US made pre-reissue PV C50 410 , which i keep hotrodding just in the inerest of the science of caps and resistors :-) (plus some toys not counting as real amps , a´la MC, DA5, minitwin) I guess I´m still gonna try out the 0.015 cap for neck and let us all know the difference ( if there´d be any :-) )
  5. OK, another update (and tone cap questions) Meanwhile, I have rewired it to the Angus Young Sig SG specs - it looks like a hybrid between 50s and modern ( although some wiser have told its a modern wiring now) - if to look at the tone pots and the relevant lug of tone cap, then it is the same as 50´s , but when to look at the vol pot and the vol side lug of the tone cap, then this part looks like modern wiring :-) . The vols and tones still interact in middle position ( which i by now have become used to pretty well) , but now there is not anymore the effect of loosing some volume , when you have vol not maxed and start to turn down the relevant pup´s tone pot with 50s wiring, I noticed such effect, slightly). Retains highs at least as good as pure 50s wiring. By now, my Dot has high quality pickup covers - nickel/german silver/nickelsilver - what ever they are called - they are not goldish under the plating, but silver, so they are definately not brass. They brought the pickups more to lively, perhaps a tiny bit easier squeel/feedback now ( I intentionally waxed the covers as thin as possible , prior installing ). Note: the Dot´s bridge pickup is ´F-space´ - it´s poles gaps ( i.e. strings distance from eachother) is a little wider than classic Gibby! I try to change as few original parts as possible on the guitar ( interested in getting it to sound as good as it can gets with te original pickups, bridge, nut, tuners - its too easy and much less tweaking fun to just change the pickups and other stuff :-) ) So, I am almost "there" with my Dot , but would like to get the neck pup a little less boomy/bassy in general. It can be improved a bit , by playing around with the pup height and pole screws, but this has its own limits and drawbacks. So, I have some doubts and questions about 0.015 tone cap ( instead of the original/common 0.022 uF) : 1. Will going to 0.015 from 0.022 take down the general boomyness/bassy overtones of the neck pickup ? 2. How big differences it brings, comparing to the original 0.022? Will it get overly thin(ner) , or just takes away that boomy bass part froom neck pup? 3. Will I achieve the effect in every position of the Neck vol pot? Many thanks in advance, for any comments , experience sharing Best Regards, Telbert
  6. Thanks for answer, however, it is unfortunately not very useful for me. What I wanted (and still do) to know, was the exact wiring specs of Angus Signature SG , a very specific guitar model - no need to know the specs of all his 163. I never mentioned wanting to sound like Angus – an hard-to-copy authentic original (actually , I hardly even listen to AC/DC regulary), I just liked the tonal spectrum potential of that paricular guitar very much – it had great tone with no treble loss while vol down-rolling . telbert
  7. Hi, I have a question . Can you help me find out the exact wiring of Angus Young Signature SG ? Is it something special or just one of the ´modern´ or ´50-s´ i.e 1959 LP wirings? Which value and type components (tone caps, "treble bleed" caps/resistors if applicable, potentiometers - 300/500k linear/log , etc) ? The reason to ask is that this thing ( a fried has got one) sounds damn good and will never get muddy (treble loss) while rolling down the volume... Thanks in advance for any comments Telbert Twang
  8. Hi, I have a question . Can you help me find out the exact wiring of Angus Young Signature SG ? Is it something special or just one of the ´modern´ or ´50-s´ i.e 1959 LP wirings? Which value and type components (tone caps, "treble bleed" caps/resistors if applicable, potentiometers - 300/500k linear/log , etc) ? The reason to ask is that this thing ( a fried has got one) sounds damn good and will never get muddy (treble loss) while rolling down the volume... Thanks in advance for any comments Telbert Twang
  9. another update: before upgrading the pickups, I decided to try out better quality pickup covers. Installing SD nickelsilver (newsilver/german silver) cover 11800-20-Nc (was available at local store) instead of the original chromed brass opened/cleared up the neck pickup noticeably. Poles holes were not perfect fit though , so needed filing - widening the pole spacing a tiny bit). Taking measures I discovered that Dot´s bridge pickup pole spacing (approx 52.4 mm). qualifies rather as "f-spacing" than gibson spacing So i ordered the closest matching , cheapest and fastest deliverable (to me) cover to it : PNS3N - 52.8mm. will need prolly some fine filing of pole holes as well. Waiting for it to be received and installed. The newsilver covers seem to really make improvement over the chromed brasses. A question: is it 100% sure that the Epi "57 classic" pickups (The MIC Dot stock pups) are alnico V? mud guy : the MIC Dot wiring looks different from correct gibson 50-s wiring ( http://www.tdpri.com/telephoto/data/500/e_dot_wire_pots_swapped_accidentally.JPG ) . The independent vs not independent volume controls is not a big issue to me (they were independent with stock wiring though, if i remember it right), i am just trying to get good nice naturally sounding treble retain and improve liveliness of pickups.
  10. another update: by now i have clipped off the treble bleeds, so - a pure 50´s wiring , kinda feels more natural (although looses now a bit treble, retains more of ´liveliyness´ of t hepickups while vol not in max) . I like my Dot´s bitey bridge pickup very much, but there is something just not right with its neck pup. It is not very clear and is somewhat ´boomy´/ bassy and dull ( I have tried to set it up very different ways - height, angled, and fiddled a lot with pole screws) . So, am lurking for neck pickup to upgrade. After lot of reading (and previously trying the Sthe Lovers), I am besides the ´main stream choice´of Gibson 57 classic very much interested in Dimarzio PAF classic . Can you give some comparison of dimarzio PAF classic against the Gibson 57 classic ? Am I on the right way with the imagination, that the Dimarzio would be a bit clearer ( and also cheaper :-) ) ? What are the main differences between these two ( if there are any ) ?
  11. mr oldmark is right ! When to turn out the pole screws and to screw the pup itself down to its frame on the same time, the sound really gets more ´jangley´ (and pickup´s tone retains better highs while rolling down the volume) . But on the same time the overall sound of the pickups looses some of it´s ´body´ or ´juice´. So, there is a compromise setting to find for everyone.
  12. I have my lovely 2008 Epi Dot rewired to Gibson 50-s wiring and with pots and tone caps being upgraded - it made guitar´s pickups more alive sounding, but there is still abit of treble tame when rolling down volume. I have meanwhile tried treble bleed with just caps ( no resistor) : 0.001 microfarad ( too tinny ) , 0.0015 ( almost ok, but further down rolling leads to tinny ), 0.0022 microF ( almost OK, but no effect when vol pot near max). So, at the moment all the treble bleeds are cut out. Its still not perfect to my ears . Want to try more perfect solution, with resistor added to treble bleed cap. What is the most often used value for treble bleed cap and resistor to use with 335-like guitar with 500k ( all audio) pots and 0.022 tone caps and original Epi Dot pickups ( neck approx 8.2k, bridge approx 9k if I remember correctly) ? And which way is more common, to put the bleed cap and resistor in parallel or inseries ? Thanks, Telbert
  13. yeah they work on my Epi Dot. Thanks for the comments!
  14. Howdy, I would like to make a fine adjustment opn my 2008 Epi Dot´s original neck pickup. But I have read ghost stories that the pole screws on these pickups are just punched into plastic/wax, and not giving the adjustment opportunity... Anybody done the poles adjustment on his(her Epi Dot original pickups ? Thanks, Telbert
  15. ahh, I see, thanks for pinpointing - I automatically thought the (only) "topological" wiring drawing ( on pg3 ) is ment to describe "50s" , as it does not have any comment . Now it makes sense again! sry for mess T
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