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Rich W

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About Rich W

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  1. I hang mine. But I have a dust issue. So I also take outdoor trash bags and make clear plastic dust covers for them. Dust is the enemy. Doesn't take too long for guitars left out in even mildly dusty rooms to end up with crackelly pots and sometimes even a bit of neck stickiness. On the other hand, displayed guitars get played more. And newer guitars with nitro finishes that are still curing seem to dry out faster when not stored in the case. Also, I just love looking at them.
  2. Rich W

    ES-339

    It's disappointing to discover that your brand new "baby" isn't totally brand new. You do have a lifetime warranty ... and you would only have to return the PG and not the whole guitar. If you feel strongly enough about this, it might be worth insisting on a new PG. Or, if you're going to scuff it up anyhow in the coming years, it might not be worth it. In your position, I think I might ask for a new one. Either way, thanks for the post. I'm always curious about folk's experiences on new guitar day, and things to look out for.
  3. I guess you noticed this forum is pretty much dead For information about Gibsons, and other guitars, you could post at mylespaul.com in the "other gibsons" subforum ... it's way more active, and most people there, while generally enthusiastic about Gibson guitars, are not defensive fan boys of the brand like some of the folks who post here http://www.mylespaul.com/forums/other-gibsons
  4. I'm happy with the tone of my 339 with the 57s. And I've listened to enough to "tone cap comparisons" on YouTube and other sites to know that the effect on tone that various cap types have is pretty subtle. The reason I did my 339 re-wire with an RS Guitarworks pre-wired harness is that I didn't like the limited range of the 339 volume controls with the stock Gibson pots. The pots in the RS kit have a more useable taper, and now the volume doesn't suddenly drop off when turning down past 7. I prefer volume controls that are still functional, even when turned down from 10 to 2 or 3. Out of curiosity, I compared the tapers of the stock ES-339 Gibson pots and RS Guitarworks Superpots by measuring the resistance change at each of the knob settings from 0 - 10. Turning down from 10 (by increments of 1), the resistance of Gibson pots increased more rapidly than the RS pots. And the Gibson pots were at close to full resistance (92%) when turned down to just 6. At the 0 - 5 knob settings, the Gibson pot resistances were equivalent to the volume being turned off. The RS pots, on the other hand, had a more gradual increase in resistance when the volume was turned down from 10. I also posted these numbers on the MyLesPaul forum (ToneFreaks subforum). The numbers in k ohms are: Gibson 10: (0.4 / 462) 0% 9: (72 / 462) 15% 8: (217 / 462) 47% 7: (358 / 462) 77% 6: (426 / 462) 92% 5: (445 / 462) 96% 4: (455 / 462) 98% 3: (456 / 462) 98% 2: (462 / 465) 99% 1: (465 / 465) 100% 0: (465 / 465) 100% (values are the average of all 4 pots) RS Superpots 10: (.03 / 545) 0% 9: (44 / 545) 8% 8: (155 / 545) 28% 7: (260 / 545) 48% 6: (357 / 545) 66% 5: (399 / 545) 73% 4: (433 / 545) 79% 3: (475 / 545) 87% 2: (521 / 545) 92% 1: (545 / 545) 100% 0: (545 / 545) 100% (values are the average of the 2 volume pots) This is consistent with what some people are saying about their ES-339 volume controls. But the volume sudden drop off when turning below 8 is not caused by the “Memphis Tone Circuit” (aka 50’s wiring). The sharp volume drop off is because of the extreme audio taper of the pots Gibson uses in the 339. I’m happier with taper of the RS SuperPots, and my volume controls are now more useable. Unlike before the change, the guitar is still audible at 2 and 3. Also, for what it’s worth, not all CTS pots are the same. The CTS tone pots I got from RS have a wider and more useable range than the stock Gibson pots. RS CTS Tone Pots 0: (.04 / 558) 0% 1: (1 / 558) 0% 2: (26 / 558) 5% 3: (51 / 558) 9% 4: (77 / 558) 14% 5: (103 / 558) 18% 6: (244 / 558) 44% 7: (283 / 558) 51% 8: (404 / 558) 72% 9: (529 / 558) 95% 10: (558 / 558) 100% (values are the average of the 2 tone pots) I was hesitating making this change because of the challenge of replacing pots in a semi-hollow. But the job was easier than I thought (thanks to the instructions in the sticky thread in the MyLesPaul ToneFreaks forum). Although I did the upgrade primarily to make the volume controls more useable, to my ears, it sounds better too. I’m not a fan of ceramic tone caps. After this upgrade, I have a better, more usable guitar now. For those folks who are not satisfied with their 339 volume controls, I recommend it.
  5. Pulled out my 339 wiring harness this weekend. Thought I'd post some pics for those who are curious about what's inside. 339s come with ceramic tone caps.
  6. TonePros-Kluson also has a model called TPKB3 that fits larger holes typical of modern tuners like Grovers, and without the need for an additional bushing. Got them for my 339. http://www.toneproskluson.com/models.html
  7. Rich W

    ES-339

    Good move. You might have it for a long time, and you would have regretted settling for one that you don't love. You can change pretty much everything else with mods, but not the neck.
  8. Nice work! It looks like you started with an SG unfinished body. Are the first two photos from another SG build?
  9. Rich W

    ES-339 frets

    I think I've got it figured out now. Gibson is calling the tall-skinny (.055 x .09") frets on 339s (similar to Dunlop 6105 profile) MEDIUM JUMBO ... with medium referring to width (.09") and jumbo referring to height (.055"). Other fret wire manufacturers, suppliers like Stew-Mac, after-market replacement neck builders like Warmouth and US Guitars, and guitar builders like Fender use the term MEDIUM JUMBO to refer to wider frets (usually at least .1") of a more intermediate height (more like .04"). Different builders use different terminology. For years, Leo Fender insisted on referring to vibrato as tremolo, and some folks still call the vibrato arms on guitars the trem bar.
  10. Rich W

    Which 339?

    Another reason why it's best to buy a semi-hollow (or any kind of guitar) only after you've had a chance to really play it and, if possible, compare its tone to others that are the same model. Acoustically, the pick of the litter will ring out the most, and it will sound the best plugged in. A dog will always be a dog ... and aging, pickup swaps, and other upgrades won't do much improve the mojo in bad wood.
  11. Rich W

    ES-339

    Maybe that's partly why they bumped the 339 price up by $300 since last year.
  12. I agree with you Bob. But before you fork out cash for a custom pick guard, you might want to try aging yours first. One way to darken the white plastic is to let it sit in a tray coffee for a few minutes ... but not long, or you'll age it too much. Keep taking it out periodically and checking it until white of the PG has darkened enough to match that of the binding. I haven't done this myself, but considered it. Instead, because I'm a finger picker and because I like the "naked" look, I ended up just leaving the guard off.
  13. Some people prefer the tone of semi-hollows with laminate tops as opposed to solid tops, and would go for the 359. Bill Collings makes fantastic guitars, including a couple of I-35s that are similar to the 356 and 359. If you have the time to read this Tone Quest Report interview and are interested in tone woods, you might be surprised by Collings' discoveries about the beautiful and consistent and more musical tone of the one with the laminate top when compared to the one with the solid top. http://www.collingsguitars.com/Images/reviews/I35LC_tonequest.pdf
  14. Rich W

    ES-339 frets

    I wish I had the medium jumbos too. Tall skinny 6105-like frets like on my 339 are nice for some styles. But I'm used to wider frets, and the skinny ones with flattish tops seem a bit speed-bumpy to me.
  15. The frets on my 339 are tall-skinny (.055 x .09). I measured them with digital calipers and they're close to the dimensions of Dunlop 6105s. Gibson is advertising 339s on their website as having "medium jumbo" frets, which are wider and not as tall than 6105s. Medium jumbos are more like .36 x .106 (cf. Dunlop 6130s). Does anyone have true medium jumbos on their 339? Maybe Gibson was using tall-skinny frets on 339s, but changed to medium jumbos very recently? I bought my 339 new about a year ago. Or is what Gibson refers to as "medium jumbo" actually what other manufacturers and fret makers call tall-skinny?
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