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About Mark2

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  1. I own a Midtown Custom and am very happy with it. The Richlite fretboard looks like ebony and feels every bit as nice as the rosewood neck on the SG Standard I also play. I prefer the Midtown's slim 60s neck to the SG's neck, but they're both nice. I've had no problems with the Grover tuners and like how they look, so I wouldn't replace them. I suppose the Klusons would look OK, but I have no idea if you'd have to drill new holes to make them fit. The body on the Midtown is smaller than an ES-335, but larger than an ES-339. I think it's a pretty comfortable size. It also has a flat top instead of an arch top. I agree with you that the Midtown is a great value. You might also consider the new ES-339 and ES-335 Studios.
  2. I don't know for if the Midtown Standard body is exactly the same as the Midtown Custom, but according to the Gibson website, the Midtown Standard has a Bigsby B-70. Here's a link: http://www2.gibson.c...gsby/Specs.aspx
  3. Not that I'm aware of; at least, I haven't seen anything on mine.
  4. Two SG players with totally different styles: Pete Townshend and John Cipollina.
  5. Here's mine; Although they're both Heritage Cherry Sunburst, it's interesting to see how different my Custom looks with a black pick guard and Humbuckers, compared to the original poster's Standard with white P-90s and no pickguard. They both sure are pretty! Too bad they've been discontinued.
  6. My Midtown Custom came from Guitar Center with only the guitar in the case. I sent an email to Gibson customer service and they sent the paperwork the next day.
  7. I think it looks better without the SG. It looks like the SG Standards from the mid 60s thru early 1970s.
  8. Mark2

    RIP Alvin Lee

    Very sad. He was one of my favorite guitarists. Mark
  9. Nice guitar and very nice playing!
  10. No, it's not true. Gibson has used serial numbers for over 100 years. However, they have changed the numbering system several times throughout the years, so things can get a bit confusing--especially since some blocks of serial numbers were used multiple times. You can download Gibson serial number info here: http://www2.gibson.c...ber-Search.aspx I'm not an expert, but from what I can tell, numbers between 828002 and 847488 were used in 1966 and 1969, but not 1968.
  11. Peter, This post might be of interest to you. It seems like the fabric sheet really works: http://forum.gibson...._1#entry1271857
  12. Nice Midtown, Chipwich. The black trim looks great!
  13. Ray, you might find this post interesting: http://forum.gibson....wing-pickguard/ It mentions that you might be able to determine a 68 from a 65 by the pot numbers and the type of knobs. Post #12 says that "Amp" style knobs (also known as "witch hats") weren't introduced until 1966. I don't know if that's true or not. However, this site mentions that Gibson switched to "witch hats" on the ES-335 at the end of 1966: http://030be21.netso...and-witch-hats/ Let us know what you learn about your SG Jr. Mark
  14. I think Gibson is right to educate potential buyers. Counterfeiters don't have to visit this site to learn how to make better copies. All they have to do is look at a real Gibson. On the other hand, if people who want to buy a genuine Gibson are better informed on how to identify a fake, they are less likely to get scammed. I think this is why Gibson has addressed this issue on their website.
  15. Hi Dab, My Midtown Custom came with speed knobs. Because of the design of the knob, the entire knob is always going to sit above the nut that holds the pot to the top of the guitar. I don't have a guitar with gold knobs to compare, but my guess is that the skirt on the recessed gold knobs probably allows the bottom of the knob to extend past the nut that holds the pot; thus the knob is closer to the body. One thing you might check is to be sure you are putting the speed knobs on perfectly straight. Mine came from the factory not sitting on the shaft perfectly straight, so I pulled them off and put them back on again. I was able to get three of the knobs to fit better. For some reason, one of the knobs won't go on the shaft perfectly straight and it is slightly higher than the other three. It is hardly noticeable, so I left it alone after trying to put it on straight several times. If there are some extra threads on the shaft of the pot that extend above the nut, you might be able to lower the pot. You would have to remove the pot, but a washer or spacer on the shaft, then put the pot back into place in the cavity. This would make the shaft not stick out as far above the top of the guitar, which would also lower the knob. I've never actually tried this, so proceed with caution! If there aren't extra threads above the nut, this idea isn't going to work, so don't even try it. Good luck with the project. Mark
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