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  1. If there is new wood patched into the guitar then the overcoat is the only finish on that part of the guitar, and probably needed to blend into the rest of the finish.
  2. It's best just to leave it. Normal play wear is not a big deal and won't have an impact on the value of your guitar if that's what your worried about. I would rather buy a used guitar with play wear than polish funk.
  3. So you are a luthier who: a.) leaves his own guitars unrepaired b.) sells a guitar without fixing it first c.) can't identify a Kalamazoo archtop d.) thinks a vintage guitar comes with a signed certificate of authenticity I guess we're all experts on the internet. Thanks for the laughs. You'd be lucky to get $200 for that. Just out of curiousity why don't you share that certificate? And how about some pictures of your luthier work.
  4. 527


    Umanov might have the highest asking prices of any shop I've ever seen. So they're two of a kind I'm afraid.
  5. 527


    Retrofret is very expensive - NYC prices on steroids. Don't hesitate to replace that plastic bridge. I would say the guitar is worth more once it has a proper wood bridge on it. There are some things in life that should not be made of plastic.
  6. Just correcting this statement. I have seen KG-11's from as early as 1933/34.
  7. Kalamazoo guitars were made before 1937. Archtops are not in great demand, and that one looks like it is in rough shape. The tuners are changed, the top is cracked, the nut needs work, and the fretboard has heavy wear. Value might be a couple hundred bucks on this one, sorry to say.
  8. Welcome aboard !

  9. Take the money out of it and decide based on what you like. If you must have Brazilian, it is within reach. You can find a vintage parlor guitar made from Brazilian rosewood and then go to town, have the top removed and rebraced for steel strings with scalloped braces. Get it all set up to play and sound great. I've seen them for sale for well under $2000 after the work has been done. Or find one cheap and have it done yourself. The price examples you are picking are very extreme. There have been 50's D-28's on ebay with issues going under $5000. I have seen Brazilian Collings and SCGC gui
  10. Then why was it reserved for the highest spec vintage Martin guitars? Style 28, 40, 42, 45... Why was it used so rarely on vintage Gibson flat tops? Granted, most pre-war rosewood Gibsons were not Brazilian, but rosewood was reserved for their high end models as well (Advanced Jumbo, L-2, Nick Lucas, early SJ-200, early SJ).
  11. Glossy doesn't always mean refinsh or overspray. If it's been cleaned the original lacquer can be quite hard and shiny. The checking is normal and I can't feel it with my fingernail. Share some pictures. If you take them with a flash that can help get an idea of any overspray.
  12. It sounds like you are choosing guitars that won't really show off the wood too well. A parlor guitar is probably ladder braced which will have more impact on the tone than the back wood. And a 1968 Martin might have Brazilian rosewood but it's structurally a much different guitar than a golden era D-28 from before WWII. The bracing is probably more important than the back wood. Having said that, here's a couple no-name guys getting decent tone out of old Brazilian guitars. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UEkVkJax2Co http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9JFgC3Ub10E
  13. A solid color refinish is a great way to hide a neck or headstock break (both common on a Firebird). It should have 3 minibuckers, but I see two full size routes and one mini, plus an extra switch.
  14. Not the format, the font. The font is wrong. Gibson used a very distinct serif font.
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